2010 Toyota Sienna QuestionsRefine by vehicle
while driving the 3rd row seat light came on and wont go out. my seats are stowed away and haven't been used in over 2 years the light just came on while i was driving.
I need someone affordable but reliable!
When I get on the highway and go the speed limit.. I get off and go home. By the time I'm home my car is leaking in the front underneath the car.
I always turn on my brights instead of my regular lights and I'm not sure how to turn it off.
My rear passenger door suddenly stopped latching and would not stay shut. I overrode the sliding door mechanism, which stopped the beeping noise that results from an open door. I have struggled with this draining my battery for a month until I could no longer take it and took it to a dealership. They called to advise the motor mechanism has gone out and they have quoted me nearly $3,000--YES, $3K--and I am furious! This is not covered by warranty and I paid $45,000 for this fully-loaded minivan, purchased brand new. It has 79,000 miles and the warranty was only 3 years/30,000 miles. My question is this: is this a legitimate price to pay for this motor replacement? Furthermore, being that I have NO interest in replacing it for that price, can I override the electric mechanism to manually open and shut the stupid door? I am TICKED as a loyal Toyota customer and have NO further interest in owning one. Please help!
I have several scrapes and dents from rubbing against a cement column. Location of the damage is the driver's side sliding door. The area is about 20 by 12 inches.
I have a 2010 Toyota Sienna 3.5 V6. The engine starts every time, but stalls after a couple of seconds and does not idle.
I have checked the mass air flow sensor and it seems to have the right resistant between the THA and E2 pins, however, when battery voltage applied between pin1 and E2G, the voltage between VG and E2G did not see to fluctuate; my volt meter's lowest setting is 2V, how low is the voltage output?
also checked all fuses and relays and the cams and crank position sensors also but there was no defects.
Is there an idle sensor on this vehicle or could it be the air flow metering sensor?
Any help with this is greatly appreciated.
What has to be done at the 5000 miles?