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It has been sitting for about a year, but the oil and water levels are fine and the car starts right up, but has a tinny knocking sound more in the front by the manifold and passenger side timing belt area. The timing belt and water pump were replaced 4 months before this happened.

after replacing the timing belt it starts right up but runs at 2200 rpm. there are no vacuum lines off and I am wondering if it could be a tooth off causing the high rpm ?

My daughter's 97 Camry has had the dash indication with the car and the rear lights accented. I searched on line for possible causes after she took the car in to get it smog tested and it failed due to two codes. I replaced the one component it fauted, check engine light cleared and took it back for the retest. Guy at the smog place said it still couldn't get rechecked due to the manufactures specific code. Did some research online and read about the problem with the wire harness in the trunk. I checked the harness and sure enough, the white and black wire(which I'm assuming is the ground due to its larger size) was broken. I spliced it back together and the reverse lights came back on. But while attempting to put the wires back in the flex casing, the dash indication came back on again. I have been shooting wires today. All of the wires check fine as far as continuity is concerned. The only lights that are out are the reverse lights and the brake lights. Both the license plate lights and the tail lights work fine. Checked both tail light and stop light fuses which were not blown. Anyone have any suggestions as to what I may be overlooking?

belt breaks while running

Preventive maintenance. Car has 197,800 miles, purchased it at 95,500 miles. Car has gone at least 102,000 on old belt. No major problems. On a previous Camry, dealership replaced the timing belt. It failed within 30,000 miles. A different dealership put in a new one, and questioned whether previous belt had been properly installed.

As the car is driven coolant moves into the reservoir. Eventually it overflows, and runs hot until coolant is moved back into engine. No other visible external leaks. Approximately 200,000 miles. New radiator, new heater core. New thermostat.

I've been having to start my car by touching a wire from the cut starter wire to the positive side of the battery

check engine light came on-the code said it was transmission solenoids. Carried it to transmission shop-they did a computer diagnostic and said they would replace both shift solenoids. That was 2 1/2 years ago. I have never had any shifting problems with transmission so I have not done anything. Should I go ahead and have them replaced or wait until I start to notice any problems??

The moonroof tilts up and down fine, it no longer slides open. When you push the switch, you hear it respond, but no motion. If broken cable(s), is that a difficult task?

My back windows work fine..The front driver window is stuck down..no noise when pushing the switch. The front passenger window is stuck closed.Will move like 1/4 inch up and down, that's all.I am broke and was wondering if we could change out the back motors, regulators or whatever it needs, to the front.Are they interchangeable? I know left to right isn't but thought maybe front to back might be. I don't care if the back windows work or not. Thanks!