Question
When I bought the car, the person had just replaced the front (bank 1) O2 sensor. 10 days later the light comes on and the code indicates that same sensor. I had a friend clear the code. Light came back on about a month later, then went off by itself.
Suggestions?
Answer #1
Yes, if the replacement sensor was not exactly matched part number to part number, then the new oxygen sensor or in this case an air fuel ratio sensor will trigger codes. Emissions parts on these newer cars must be factory. Also, if you have an exhaust leak near the sensor that can cause codes. By the way, what code is it exactly.
Reply
P0133 - O2 Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1). AND - thanks for the response!
Reply
factory sensors are best but there are good aftermarket ones like bosch and denso. that could be a circuit or as stated b4 exh leak
Reply
How do you diagnose if that's the code, but the sensor is new. What is a before exhaust leak? Any chance it could be something simple like the intake gasket? If not, any recommendations for where to start?
Reply
Let me reparse goalhelper's reply for you: ... or, as stated before (see Answer #1), an exhaust leak.
Answer #2
I have a 2004 Pontiac Vibe (base engine) approaching 110,000 miles. In response to an intermittent CEL and engine code P0133, I purchased a Denso Oxygen Sensor MFG# 234-4800 at Advance Auto Parts in Gwinnett County, USA. This sensor is appropriate for installation upstream from the catalytic converter and comes with a small packet of specially formulated anti-seize compound for application to the threads of the new sensor before it is installed. As is their policy, Advance loaned me a kit containing 3 slotted sockets for my personal use to remove the OEM sensor and install the new one. The open slot on the side of each 22mm socket allows it to easily slide over the 4-wire cable that is attached to the top of the sensor. As I always say, "When you have the right tool, any job is easy." I started this project by disconnecting the negative battery cable from the battery and removing the plastic engine cover from the engine. Then, using the tip of a small flat-blade screwdriver to hold the latch open, I successfully pulled the male cable connector of the OEM sensor away from the female side by rocking it from side to side until it surrendered. The heat shield over the exhaust manifold is secured by 4 bolts and they all removed easily. I lifted the heat shield so I could pull the loose cable of the OEM sensor through the hole in the shield, thereby allowing me to free the heat shield from the vehicle. With the heat shield out of the way, I used one of the loaner sockets to remove the OEM sensor without difficulty. After a drink of water, I installed the new sensor as follows: 1) lightly coat the threads with anti-sieze compound; 2) screw the sensor into the exhaust manifold until it is finger tight; 3) use the slotted socket to tighten the sensor with a rotation of about 90 to 120 degrees from finger-tight, similar to a spark plug; 4) thread the 4-wire cable through the hole in the heat shield; 5) smear a little anti-sieze compound on the threads of the 4 bolts; 6) position the heat shield properly and bolt it down; 7) snap the 4-wire male cable connector into the female side and the job is done! Three weeks later, the CEL remains dark and all is well. Incidentally, as part of this project, I also replaced the 4 OEM spark plugs with BOSCH Iridium 0.6 mm Ultra Fine Wire #9600 pre-gapped plugs hoping to squeeze another mile or two out of each gallon of ($3.76) gas!
| 1 globalhelper | 6 csubak30 |
| 2 pushrod | 7 wenyan |
| 3 ziptie12 | 8 goodguy |
| 4 ChevyASE | 9 tdtoolbox |
| 5 gearhead89 | 10 Jamesw |