Sitting in the driver's seat at the driver's left foot under the dash there is a fuse box. There is a tail light fuse ( a 10 Amp fuse) and the tail lamp relay is located in that fuse box as well. You may have to remove that fuse box and flip it over to gain access to the relay. Check the fuse if it is good the relay is good. The green with an orange stripe wire at the fuse box brings power to the front park lights (even though it is on the "tail light fuse". the green wire from the fuse brings power to the license plate lights and tail lights.
Great help on telling me that I might have to remove the fuse box. I have the metal panel off and am looking at the front panel. That explains the two layer drawing I have so now how do I remove that fuse box? Are there tabs that I release, do I just pull or does it swing on a hinge and if so is the hinge on the passenger side or drivers side......thank you so much....this is fun.
You should disconnect the battery, and then remove all the electrical connections at the "front side" of the fuse box. I think there are one or two 10mm nuts that secure the fuse box assembly and possibly a few retaining clips that need to be pressed and released to remove the assemble.
Great help.....I got it....I took another good look with BETTER LIGHTING and actually was able to find the relay along with a couple other relays sitting directly above a black box thing. I did NOT HAVE to do any unhooking of the fuse box. I replaced the tail light relay easily then. Thank you very much for your help. The bad news is that did not solve my problem.....which is no tail lights or backup lights. Wondering if it has to do with the trunk. Did the usual suspect things, fuses and bulbs....... so now I need to dig deeper. yesterday we kept blowing a fuse that affects the shifting and the instrument panel gauges. Any thoughts or experience you might have would be appreciated. It is a fun challenge, but would be the most fun if I can solve it!! Thank you again for your help with the tail light relay.
Check the wires on the trunk lid hinge on the left trunk hinge. Pull apart the wiring harness and closely inspect the wires for breaks. Look a little further back toward and just behind the trim panel at the front driver's corner top area of the trunk as well. I bet you find some broken wires. repair, insulate and secure the wires in a way that allows the wires to flex when the hood is being opened but not get jammed when the hood is closed.. Good luck.
When we checked the wires running to the trunk lid, all 6 had been cut in some manner inside the wiring loom near the left trunk lid hinge. I soldered all 6 back together and we solved all but one problem. I now have lights to the license plate and backup lights. I still do not have any taillights. All other side and front running lights are working fine. So, 2 of 3 remaining problems have been resolved. On the taillights, I checked continuity of the bulbs, both check fine. I checked continuity from the solder joint near left trunk hinge to the bulb sockets. It all checks fine. I measured voltage at the backup lights and got 12+ VDC as expected. I do not get any voltage at the taillight socket. I also checked continuity on the ground (white wire with black stripe clear back up to the ground near the interior fuse box by the drivers left foot. This checked out fine. So, after replacing the tail light Relay (by the way, this is on the back side of the driver’s side fuse box - no need to disassemble anything here as you can see the relay using a mirror), fixing the broken wires, checking fuses, I have everything working except the trunk tail lights. Any suggestions?
Great progress. The wires and colors to be tracing are white/black are ground, supply a temporary ground from the bulb holder to the body of the car see if the lights now work. The 10 Amp fuse marked tail in the fuse box has a green wire from the fuse box that powers the license plate lights,and rear side markers. There is a lights failure module wire there are green/orange (power through 10 Amp gauge fuse and lights the yellow lights failure bulb on dash), red/blue power from 10Amp gauge fuse, green power from tail fuse, white/ black is ground, green orange supplies power to tail lights.
Thank you for your help. It helped to clarify the wiring. Tonight we found that the Light Failure Sensor is bad. We did this by reading your response and studying some wiring schematics to determine we had power to the sensor via the green wire, but no power out to the lights in the green/orange. For a temporary fix, we jumpered the green to the green/orange until such time as we can replace the Light Failure Sensor. Thank you very much for your help. It was fun to learn, but I think I am better at fixing cakes than I am at fixing cars.
Just a question. When you jumpered the green to the green/orange, basically you disconnected those two wires from the sensor and connected the two wires directly. How about the sensor? Did it still show warning light on the panel? Did the other output lines which are connected to stop light work OK?
See Autotechpat's answer below. That is the answer. FYI, we lost all lights in the back of car as the loom in trunk had been crushed and it severed all wires. Hard to believe, but too muc loaded in trunk and hinge on lid severed them. Unrelated to your question, but FYI.