My steering wheel constantly squeaks to the point it has become annoying. I check the steering fluid and it is ok. What is causing this? It is worst in the winter time.
Chrysler Q&AAsk Your Question
2008 Chrysler 300 Question: Steering wheel squeaks
Answer #1Bret Bodas from RepairPal Test Shop, February 07, 2010, 12:46Master
You'll need to determine where the squeak is coming from, then determine why it the noise is occurring. Can you locate the source of the noise?
Replyskcunning, February 07, 2010, 13:03Rookie
It squeaks when I turn the steering wheel left or right.
ReplyBret Bodas, February 07, 2010, 13:08Master
OK, but exactly where is the squeak coming from? Noises are difficult to address unless the source of the noise is found, so try to find exactly where the noise is coming from.
Replyskcunning, February 07, 2010, 14:43Rookie
It sounds like it is coming from inside the steering column.
ReplyBret Bodas, February 07, 2010, 20:17Master
This will require checking and removing the covers on the column, and possible the steering wheel. If the wheel needs to come off, then the airbag will need to come off, so you should take this to a repair shop to have them look into this.
Answer #2Visitor, March 10, 2010, 12:35
I don't have an answer but I have a 2008 300c and my steering wheel column has an identical rubbing/squeaking noise when I turn the wheel. If you ever solved the problem could you send me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org and let me know the solution. Thanks!
Visitor, April 18, 2010, 05:54
Technical Service Bulletins
The vehicle operator may experience a squeak/rubbing sound originating from the lower steering shaft dash seal. The sound may be due to a lack of lubricant.
If the customer complains of a squeak/rubbing sound, verify that it is coming from the lower dash seal. if so:
1. Remove the 2 push pins from the lower hush panel below the steering column
2. Remove hush panel to gain access to lower steering column seal
3. Pull the steering column seal down and inspect the white cup the seal rides on.
4. Does the white cup have black markings on white cup in the area shown in (Fig. 1)?
a. No >>> Perform Repair Procedure A
b. Yes >>> Perform Repair Procedure B
NOTE :* P/N 05170263AB is a kit that contains an Instruction sheet. For the purpose of this bulletin, DISREGARD the Instruction sheet included in the kit and follow Repair Procedure "B" instructions only (if replacing boot).
REPAIR PROCEDURE A - CLEAN AND LUBRICATE:
1. While the seal is down, clean seal lip and white cup.
2. Apply grease p/n 68028730AA to cup.
CAUTION :Do not use any other type of grease as it may adversely react to the seal material.
3. Slide the seal back in place.
4. Install hush panel and secure with push pins.
5. Repair is complete.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B - REPLACE BOOT:
1. If equipped, position column in mid-tilt and telescoping wheel fully extended.
2. Position the front wheels straight ahead.
3. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
NOTE :Leave the trunk or liftgate open during repair.
4. Using 2 wide masking tape, secure steering wheel to column shroud to maintain clockspring orientation. Wheel should be in straight ahead position. See (Fig 2)
5. Lift the vehicle on a suitable hoist.
NOTE :Mark the shafts with paint marker to assist when reassembling.
6. Disconnect the pinch bolt at the lower coupling shaft (Fig 3).
7. Slide the steering shaft out of the lower coupling shaft.
8. Lower the vehicle.
9. Remove the left side instrument panel end cap (strip near door seal).
10. Remove the steering column opening cover under steering column.
11. Remove knee blocker.
12. Remove the lower steering column boot retaining nuts at bulkhead.
13. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, gently pry between the ignition switch bezel and the instrument cluster bezel to release the snap retainers that secure the switch bezel.
14. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, gently pry between the instrument panel and the cluster bezel to release the snap clip retainers that secure the cluster bezel.
15. Remove the cluster retaining screws.
16. Disconnect wiring and remove cluster from instrument panel.
17. Remove four column shroud (roll top) cover screws. Slide shroud up toward steering wheel (Fig. 4).
18. If equipped with electronic telescoping column, remove the screws mounting the brace to the steering column and support beam bracket (Fig. 5).
19. Remove the lower steering column mounting bolt and nut (Fig. 6).
20. Remove the two upper mounting bolts from the steering column (Fig. 7).
CAUTION :Care should be used not the pull wiring during the next step.
CAUTION :Do not break masking tape between steering wheel and column shroud.
21. Lower and slide steering column back and allow steering wheel to rest on seat. (Fig 8)
22. Remove lower dash boot from steering shaft.
23. Using Mopar Brake Parts Cleaner p/n 04897150AB, clean both white cups where seals ride (Fig. 9).
24. Install new boot p/n 05166448AA on steering shaft.
1. Reverse the above Removal Procedure to install steering column with the following instructions and torque specifications:
CAUTION :All fasteners must be torqued to specification to ensure proper operation of the steering column.
NOTE :New bolts must be used for column mounting in steps Step #2 and Step #3 below.
2. Use new bolts for column upper mounting p/n 06507656AA. Torque the column upper mounting bolts to 30 N.m (22 ft. lbs.) Step # 20.
3. Use new bolt and nut for column lower mounting p/n 06507656AA, (bolt) and p/n 06101695, (nut). Torque the lower column mounting bolt to 30 N.m (22 ft. lbs.) Step # 19.
4. If equipped with electronic telescoping column, Install the screws fastening the brace to the steering column and support beam bracket. First, tighten mounting screw at the column to 29 N.m (21 ft. lbs.). Then, tighten mounting screw at the support beam to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.) Step #18.
5. Verify noise is repaired and all areas related to the steering column function as designed.
Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
Disclaimer :This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair.
Answer #4newyorkpaul October 28, 2011, 08:51Rookie
I had the same problem and now it's gone. The TSB from Chrysler is very technical and seems too involved. This description however, seems to be the best and easiest to do/follow. I cannot take credit for it though. This is by Davetrain at chargerforumz.com. I'm just spreading the knowledge.
- - - -
This is a really easy fix. You will need a tube of plastic bushing lubricant (part #68028730AA) from the dealership; it will cost ~$11 with tax. Aside from that all you need is a phillips screw driver and and a 10mm socket.
Sorry I don't have pictures, but it is pretty self-explanatory.
1) Open the driver's door and you will see a piece of plastic trim (~1' long) running up along side the dash. Gently work your fingers in behind it and pull straight out. This exposes one of two screws holding the lower dash panel in place.
2) Remove the two screws from the lower dash (the one you just exposed and the second is next to the OBDII port directly below the steering wheel.
3) Gently grab the lower dash panel at the bottom and pull straight out to release the clips holding it in. Be careful as the trunk release wires are not real long. Once you have released the clips, you will be able to disconnect the trunk release and set the lower dash panel aside.
4) Directly below the steering wheel is a metal plate held in place with four 10mm bolts. Remove those and set the metal plate aside. You should be able to look down inside to see the black boot riding on the white plastic cup).
5) There is a black fabric-like piece (hush panel) covering the bottom of the dash. It is held in with two push pins pressed into the bottom of the square metal tube you have exposed. Gently pull down around the push pins to release the hush panel and pull it out.
6) Reach up through the bottom of the dash and slide the black rubber boot off of the white plastic cup (towards the firewall). Wipe the white cup down with a paper towel and apply a small amount of the lubricant. Slide the black boot back over the cup.
7) Reassemble everything.
This whole process took me about 20 mins. I was outside in the parking lot, and I'm not a contortionist. You might be able to start at step 5 if you can get the hush panel off and contort yourself to see what you are doing under the dash.
Anyway, for 20 mins and $11 my steering is whisper quiet again.