Sounds like the idle control is not raising or boosting the idle speed to compensate for the added load of the power steering system. Does it idle just fine when making a hard right hand U-turn? Try that to see how the vehicle reacts.
here are some shops if you need help
Thanks for the reply. Sorry I took so long to reply back. Work has been busy.
I did some tests the other night in a cul-de-sac to try to narrow the syptoms down.
During a hard right turn (steering wheel all the way cranked) it doesn't stall and I can't see any issues with the idle. The RPM stays at 400.
During a hard left turn (fully cranked)it stalls 20% of the time and the idle is around 200. The engine struggles a bit to keep running almost everytime.
If I don't crank the wheel hard but back off a bit the engine is fine. Also, if I keep my foot on the accelerator a bit during a hard left turn it doesn't stall.
One last piece of info, I have noticed maybe 10% of the time when I am stopped and parked but idling the engine stalls.
Not sure why the hard right turn doesn't cause a stall but I'm am thinking like you that an idle adjustment in the computer? may be needed.
What do you think? And thanks again.
I have the same problem and when it stalls, I'm able to start it right back up. I've noticed the same as you, that if I can keep my foot on the accelerator, it's less likely to stall. Something new that's come up (but it doesn't do it every time) is that as it stalls, the "low fuel light" flashes then goes right back out even though on both occasions that I've noticed it I had a 1/2 tank of gas. Curious to know if you've found resolution. Thanks!
This is what I have found for a fix. I have not done it yet as my problem is intermittent. For my problem I would think that cleaning the throttle body (see below) may not help since the stall only occurs during hard left turns. But I would think that have the idle level reset or set a bit higher to compensate for the extra load of the power steering would do the trick. I also heard there might by a problem with the fuel pump that is in the gas tank if you see the fuel light come on during this.
Here is the answer I got.
There is a service bulletin for that issue on your truck. The correction is to clean the throttle body and update the engine software. You can clean the TB yourself but a dealer may do this for you for free.
Let me know how this works out.
See bulletin below.
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-040
Date: June 14, 2004
Idle Instability, Low or Rough Idle with Electronic Throttle Control (Clean Throttle Body)
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2000-2003 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche
2000-2003 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL
with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, Z, N, U - RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LQ9, LQ4) and Electronic Throttle Control
Some owners may comment on an idle instability, low idle speed or rough idle.
Condition may be caused by deposits in the throttle body bore.
Clean throttle body bore and throttle valve plate of carbon using a shop rag and an appropriate cleaner. Refer to Engine Controls Repair Procedures - Throttle Body Cleaning Procedure. This procedure may be performed at any mileage necessary. Check to determine if the PCM calibration has been previously updated to one that includes the update for throttle body coking. For 2003 model year vehicles, look in the operating system portion of the calibration. For 2000-2002 model year vehicles, look in the engine portion of the calibration. If not, then update the PCM calibration to the latest calibration.
I had the same problem. It first stalled pulling out into traffic, left turn, dead stall, no stearing, traffic coming - scary. I was able to get out of the way. It started right up. Ran fine for a day. Then did it again. A day later again. At this point I was just praying over my car. It got worse (not saying anything about God.) A couple days later I noticed it was only on left turns. I went to two dealers and two repair shops. No clue. I told them about theories on this thread and others... they rolled their eyes. "only on left turns?" no way. has to be a wire short. They didn't have time, I was traveling out of state. The car was still going "straight and right" just fine... so I drove on. then I hit a big bump in the road, and it stalled, but didn't die. 10 miles later it did it again. I'm in the middle of Oklahoma, and it is getting worse. Finally, I'm in walled in construction, no shoulder, 10 miles of it, and it dies completely. I shift to nuetral and it won't start. It tries, but won't. I'm coasting to a stop, 10mph, and there in front of me is a hole in the concrete barrier that I ease through out of traffic, get towed to a shop and they start pulling on wires. By this time, the car has cooled and it starts fine. They notice on a bunch of wires that run down behind or beside the powersteering pump, that the car will stall if they pull on those. So they slide under and take of the skid plate and disconnect all those wires and pull them up. Cut all the tape off, and examine them. The two little wires going to the AC switch have a kink and a worn spot, one has the plastic off for an 1/8 inch and the wire is exposed. We taped them up... saw no other bad spots and shook our head and put it all back together. For some reason on the left turn and later when it worsened, a bump, the rub got worse and worse and then shorted out completely (when it was hot) The AC was working fine, there had been no engine light codes, but this surge / short had caused the stall. It is working fine now... just drove 200 miles with not one stall. It had gotten so bad that it was stalling every left turn and most bumps in the road. It took 1.5 hours to pull it all out, and put it all back. No parts necessary. Hope this helps.