All you have to do is loosen the one bolt that is difficult to remove and then cut the head off. Remove the oil pan. When putting the bolt back on, get a new bolt that's about 7-8mm shorter. You many not get to torque it properly but you sure can get it tight so it doesn't leak anymore. Total cost is around $60 including my beer.
Drill a hole in the transfer case mount to access the bolt was easier for me. Start with small drill bit and work your way up to a 1/2 inch drill bit. Then use a grinding stone on your drill large enough to fit a 13 mm socket through when your done. That's what I did and after I got done it looked as though it was made that way. A nice clean hole. Actually I used a 3/4 inch grinding stone shape as a socket that worked perfectly for a 13 mm socket. Use some good none walking Dewalt drill bits. And it was easy to drill because its made out of aluminum. Then you will have to remove the bolts on the oil pick up tube to allow the pan to be fully removed. Because the oil pick up tube keeps the pan from coming forward to be removed. Then use Loctite 5699 sealant from EMI, inc. on both sides of the gasket. The sealant drys in 1 hour. Plenty of time to bolt the oil pick up tube before the sealant drys. My car is leak free.
Anytime you have an oil leak you'll need to pay close attention to your oil level. You don't want to run any engine low on oil because that will lead to some very expensive repairs.
Check your owner's manual and buy a couple quarts of the correct oil to keep in your trunk. Check the oil level when you fill the gas tank and eventually you'll get a feel for just how much oil is leaking from the pan gasket and know how often you'll need to check the oil level.
Obviously you'll want to fix any oil leak when funds permit. It keeps oil from leaking to the ground and keeps the oil from contaminating anything rubber on the car. Cooling hoses are sensitive to oil contamination and will swell when they start soaking up the oil. The sooner you can fix it, the better to save some mess under the car (oil spreads around the underside as you drive). Only a couple drips to the ground each morning is manageable but it will likely get worse as time passes. hope this helps
If you want to pay $1000 for the replacement, the part costs $30 but the labor is over $950, that is because they have to remove the complete engine to replace the gasket. Nice way to manufacture a vehicle huh?
the cost should be around 700, and you dont have to remove the engine, thats insane! there's a few things in the way of remove n the pan, for 1, the muffler pipes. if you had to remove the engine, it would cost a hell of a lot more than 1000 !
Hi, I also have a leaking oil pan gasket, and apparently for several years, however not enough to cause my mechanic to alert me, and my jag is in great condition, other than that. Have never had to add more oil between oil changes.
You have to remove the transfer case (at 2.5V6, 3.0V6) or you have to make a special tool to unscrew bolt under transfer case to replace oil pan gasket seal. Before this you have to remove front pipe and middle pipe under oil pan. Because of not too clever construction, removing the pipe is not easy (you will see). Not to remove subframe if you decide remove transfer case, you needn't. The whole process time depends on that, you have special tool for bolt under transfer case or not. At least one day for a garage warrior, or 5 days if you will remove transfer box as in JTIS. Better if a good car mechanic will do, for them it is about half time. I done on my car myself (I had to replace transfer case too so I did it during that process), but It was a huge s*ck in a not well equipped garage.
Ohh, I forgot; of course you needn't to remove the engine