low compression test and visual inspection suggest a burnout valve in one cylnder. is it reasonable to repair/replace one valve. does this require taking engine/motor apart. is this the kind of repair that if you have it all apart that you should replace other worn or defective valves. given the year of the car should I assume that the valves or cylynders are probably due for placement or might the other valves be just fine and regular oil changes and routine maintenance are usually adequate to keep engine going another 100,000km. I am just buyng this car and I am aware has one valve needing replacement due to rough idling, its a 6 cylinder, does this suggest that there may be a bigger proble that might have caused the valve to burn out. I was also told that it needs about 1 litre oil per1000 km but no oil leaks or smoking observed.
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1996 Volvo 850 Question: rough idling/lost compression one valve
Answer #1Bret Bodas from RepairPal Test Shop, August 22, 2010, 18:10Master
Many great questions here, let me clarify a few things though.
This should be a 5 cylinder engine, unless it's a 960?
A leaking valve cannot be diagnosed visually, or by just a compression test alone, you need to have a cylinder leak-down test performed.
This sounds like the potential for many problems, so It doesn't sound like a wise choice to purchase this. Is there some compelling reason why you want this vehicle?
Replyelizabett, August 23, 2010, 09:24Rookie
hi thanks for getting back to me. no compulsion to buy this vehicle but committed to buying Volvo. since I did this inquiry, I have come across several Volvo wagons in my area and in my price range ready to go. I am checking these others and would appreciate any comments you would have before purchasing. ( '97 850 auto wagon, FWD, leather interior; 325 km mostly hwy. driven; needs rear wiper assembly; passenger door hinge is cracked but functional; MVI July 2011; A/C not blowing; asking $1500.);( '94 Turbo wagon; 300 km; auto. FWD, MVI May 2011; 8 tires included; asking $1000) ( '95 850 wagon, non turbo; auto FWD, mvi june 2011, 236km, $1,100., 8 tires included.) I am leaning towards the '97 because its the newest. I have not seen any of these yet; would you please advise me what I should be looking for when checking these cars. I appreciate your help in this important decision. These cars are listed on KIJIJI, Halifax web site, I might be able to send a link or you could even check them on line if you wouldn't mind the extra hassle. There are about 20 Volvo's listed if you narrow search to Model: Volvo. If you can email me directly, my email is: firstname.lastname@example.org. Thank you so much, I am happy I found your web site. elizabett
ReplyBret Bodas, August 23, 2010, 09:46Master
I don't have the time to go look through that for you, but I can answer your questions here.
Stay away from the 850 prior to 1996 (1992-1995).
Find a good Volvo shop of Dealership and have the vehicle inspected if possible. Find a person who knows these vehicles, they will know what to look for.
One the 1997 850, the door hinge may need to have a body shop repair this, it's not an easy repair and may be expensive. $1500 seems like a descent deal if it's in good condition.
Replyelizabett, August 23, 2010, 10:02Rookie
thank you very much for advice, I have appointment. to see the '97 tonight and will ask to take it to a dealer for a pre-inspection inspection, I'll finish up with a new inspection if I buy it. - your my newest best friend! ps I can write and sew any project, let me know if you need any of these services and I'll try to help you out; or advice - about kids, relationships, the big life questions etc. - I m brilliant in these matters, seriously. cheers elizabett.
ReplyBret Bodas, August 23, 2010, 10:06Master
Thanks for the offers for advise! Let me know how the inspection turns out.
Replyelizabett, August 23, 2010, 10:11Rookie