Problem Description and Possible Solution
The anti-lock brake system (ABS) pump may stay running after the ignition is turned off causing the battery to go dead. Our technicians tell us that the ABS control module should be replaced to correct this fault.
Average mileage: 126,221 (30,000–240,000)
42 people reported this problem
I have replaced the module on my trk but the pump motor still stays running unless I pull the fuse to it.
This is something that has bothered for about three or four years and I couldn't find why the battery was going dead after a week of not starting it.It now runs all the time the fuse is in.
ABS brake light came on today. When I parked my truck, turned it off and got out I noticed a humming sound coming from under the truck directly beneath the drivers seat. Crawled under to check it out and discovered its the ABS pump motor. Had to pull the ABS fuse to make it turn off. Internet says the control module (plugs in at same location as pump) is the problem. Did some checking and the part alone is over $500...OUCH!!
I was unable to afford to replace the module, so the fuse was pulled to stop the pump and smiley face stickers were placed over the nice red lights. I have to put the fuse back in whenever it comes up for emissions test as both the brake & abs lights stay lit. The brakes work just fine. No abs though. Can't afford the $1000 to fix it :(
ABS module stays on and drains battery i disconected the connection and now have a constant chime when the vehicle is traveling gets between 5 to 10 mph and continues
ABS continue to run after the ignition is cut off.
Had same problem. would stand by vehicle and hear something running with vehicle turned off. eventually battery went dead.
Haven't gotten it fixed yet but I know how to. You can get your abs module sent off or buy a new one. Takes about 30 minutes to do if you don't know anything about fixing things. Unbolt the old insert the new. That simple. Located under the driver side door with 4 hex screws.
abs pump does not turn off kills the battery
Regarding my 2001 Chevy Suburban 1500 / 2 wheel drive ..... At 58,000 miles, I was driving in a residential area, heard an unusual engine noise coming from outside the car, ABS dashboard light came on, I parked the car, turned off ignition and the motor noise continued. A neighbor mechanic said it sounded like the ABS - anti-brake system motor was stuck. He pulled the ABS fuse under the hood and the noise stopped. When I turned the ignition on, the ABS light and the general brake warning light came on. He told me it was ok to drive the vehicle with the ABS fused pulled. Apparently ABS is primarily for rough terrain driving, i.e. snow, sand, oily roads, etc. and was not necessary for general on the road driving on California roads. Some cars do not even have an ABS system. - I got this problem fixed because my registration and smog check was due, but the repair mechanic told me it would not have effected the smog check passing, even though I had heard to the contrary through the internet. The official diagnosis: "Electronic brake control module was bad. New part cost $1,040.00 + $209.00 labor + pre-diagnostic test $104.50. Total out of pocket $1,353.50. One day to officially diagnose and order part, one day to receive part, one day to repair. Three full days in shop.
ABS motor ran even with engine off. Pulled the ABS fuse out 33,000 miles ago (just can't afford to replace it).When going for the annual state inspection sticker, have to put the fuse back in to turn off the lit brake light on the instrument cluster in order to pass the inspection. After the inspection, the fuse is taken back out.
Abs light came on and buzzing under truck. Turned truck off but buzzing didn't stop. Pulled fuse and buzzing stopped but ABS and now BRAKE light are on.
This is the second time.
The first was about 2007.
anti light and battery light come 0n