Problem Description and Possible Solution
The anti-lock brake system (ABS) pump may stay running after the ignition is turned off causing the battery to go dead. Our technicians tell us that the ABS control module should be replaced to correct this fault.
Average mileage: 129,589 (30,000–240,000)
68 people reported this problem
I have replaced the module on my trk but the pump motor still stays running unless I pull the fuse to it.
This is something that has bothered for about three or four years and I couldn't find why the battery was going dead after a week of not starting it.It now runs all the time the fuse is in.
ABS brake light came on today. When I parked my truck, turned it off and got out I noticed a humming sound coming from under the truck directly beneath the drivers seat. Crawled under to check it out and discovered its the ABS pump motor. Had to pull the ABS fuse to make it turn off. Internet says the control module (plugs in at same location as pump) is the problem. Did some checking and the part alone is over $500...OUCH!!
ABS continue to run after the ignition is cut off.
ABS module stays on and drains battery i disconected the connection and now have a constant chime when the vehicle is traveling gets between 5 to 10 mph and continues
I was unable to afford to replace the module, so the fuse was pulled to stop the pump and smiley face stickers were placed over the nice red lights. I have to put the fuse back in whenever it comes up for emissions test as both the brake & abs lights stay lit. The brakes work just fine. No abs though. Can't afford the $1000 to fix it :(
Had same problem. would stand by vehicle and hear something running with vehicle turned off. eventually battery went dead.
abs pump does not turn off kills the battery
Haven't gotten it fixed yet but I know how to. You can get your abs module sent off or buy a new one. Takes about 30 minutes to do if you don't know anything about fixing things. Unbolt the old insert the new. That simple. Located under the driver side door with 4 hex screws.
Regarding my 2001 Chevy Suburban 1500 / 2 wheel drive ..... At 58,000 miles, I was driving in a residential area, heard an unusual engine noise coming from outside the car, ABS dashboard light came on, I parked the car, turned off ignition and the motor noise continued. A neighbor mechanic said it sounded like the ABS - anti-brake system motor was stuck. He pulled the ABS fuse under the hood and the noise stopped. When I turned the ignition on, the ABS light and the general brake warning light came on. He told me it was ok to drive the vehicle with the ABS fused pulled. Apparently ABS is primarily for rough terrain driving, i.e. snow, sand, oily roads, etc. and was not necessary for general on the road driving on California roads. Some cars do not even have an ABS system. - I got this problem fixed because my registration and smog check was due, but the repair mechanic told me it would not have effected the smog check passing, even though I had heard to the contrary through the internet. The official diagnosis: "Electronic brake control module was bad. New part cost $1,040.00 + $209.00 labor + pre-diagnostic test $104.50. Total out of pocket $1,353.50. One day to officially diagnose and order part, one day to receive part, one day to repair. Three full days in shop.
ABS motor ran even with engine off. Pulled the ABS fuse out 33,000 miles ago (just can't afford to replace it).When going for the annual state inspection sticker, have to put the fuse back in to turn off the lit brake light on the instrument cluster in order to pass the inspection. After the inspection, the fuse is taken back out.
Abs light came on and buzzing under truck. Turned truck off but buzzing didn't stop. Pulled fuse and buzzing stopped but ABS and now BRAKE light are on.
Abs light on, now when truck is turned off a fan noise is present. I've kept truck on for 15 minutes now, but the noise is still there. I have a 2001 suburban. I can't afford a truck repair bill right now. Any advice?
This is the second time.
The first was about 2007.
Replaced fuel pump. Now fuel pump won't shut off
name tony Myers im an mechanic assistance for six yrs.
I have an 96-00 Vortec 350 38,000 miles rebuild sider fuel injectors Chevy Silverado c1500 bring an friend too her bills I was leaving from Berwick La to bayou vista La left walmart parken lot got by taco bell truck just cut off while in motion try to get an jump thinking the alternator went out so waited for day in a half got an tow from an friend back where I am living know in Berwick engine turn over didn't have fire getting fuel but not sure how much pressure im getting to that aggravating spider fuel injectors have no tool for that fuel pressure test so I when to do an battery test by load 14.7V top post battery but I notice an voltage drop change to an 12.5V just by turning the ignition key on so that 2.2V so about three weeks later I took the battery that I have on the truck got it tested battery held the voltage but on the load test it failed I took the alternator off got it tested it pass at AutoZone took the starter off got it tested it pass but what draining my battery ? like how much voltage dose the fuel pump pulls when the key is on
I have all these codes on my truck like PO1351 - PO1345 that code is my ignition codes what I did was change the ROTOR cam sensor plugs an the fuel filter ran out of money thinking the crank sensor went out the old distributor cap spark plugs
still don't have it running while the truck was sitting for a while the water pump went bad
anti light and battery light come 0n