Both sides are dragging. Doesn't seem to be the calipers. With it jacked up and the car in park there is some drag. I put it in neutral and a lot of drag. I noticed it the first time about two months ago after driving. Left rear disc was extremely hot. Drove home and it didn't get hot at all. In fact was cool to the touch when I got home. Continues to do that, occasionally drag and occasionally not. Could it be electronic? Thoughts?
Rear brakes are dragging. How to fix? on 2012 Ford Taurus
by iowarob in Wilton, IA on July 05, 2014
3 answers 13 comments
ANSWER by ziptie12 , July 05, 2014
What did the brake PAD inspection tell you? Wearing evenly?
COMMENT by iowarob , July 08, 2014
Thanks for responding. Yes wearing mostly even. Passenger side not wore as much but also has not been dragging as often as driver's side. (which is why I don't believe its the master cylinder??) I disassembled and reassembled the passenger side. The slides seemed like they were not the issue. But I still cleaned them up. The ears on the pads and the clips were heavily corroded. so I cleaned them up so that they were able to move a little freer. I had to pry the outside pad off of the rotor, it was riding very close and dragging the rotor. I did talk to a local garage and they said they see a lot of times where the brakes on disc brakes just get corroded and won't release off the rotor when you let off. Just caused by our lovely road salt and moisture. I will take wheel off the passenger side and see how things are looking. Also going to try and get the driver's side disassembled but it wasn't wanting to come apart the other day so I quit. Anything I'm missing? Maybe I will try to readjust the pedal/pushrod to make sure its not to tight? should of noticed it before 40,000 miles though? Thanks again.
I personally would stick with what you are doing first , finish the inspection and cleaning of calipers and slides.Make sure the parking brake levers and cables are operating freely- get someone to apply and release as you watch each side. Does the piston turn in okay or is it stuck(and if there is a line-up pin on the brake pad , make sure piston is aligned)
Pins are lined up. Got most the corrosion off. Seems to be working better. Need to get a tool to back the caliper in. So if this seems to be working I will get the tool and then put on new pads. thanks again for your time.
ANSWER by DonziGT230 , July 06, 2014
My guess is brake master cylinder pushrod adjustment is too tight or the rod or piston isn't fully retracting. Gear selection won't change it, neither will electronics. You had to press the pedal to put it into N which pressurized the system. Try again but this time loosen the master cylinder nuts a couple turns, if the problem stops you have a pushrod issue.
COMMENT by ziptie12 , July 06, 2014
My second guess , is they'll never reply......................
COMMENT by pushrod , July 07, 2014
They don't have a reply button.... I reckon!... Green jelly toast and a cup of Java ..... Good to go... Look out F.C., here I come!! . Prob. park brake 3 clicks on, then off!
HEY!! I'm '3 clicks off and dragging" I don't overheat? Maybe it's the magic of green jelly!/////
ANSWER by pushrod , July 07, 2014
How many miles on the car?.... Possibly a warranty issue.... See dealer!!! Don't start working on it... Have it checked out!!
COMMENT by iowarob , July 08, 2014
43,000 miles so out of warranty.
please check my reply (the serious one) to your reply.
COMMENT by DonziGT230 , July 08, 2014
I know of one car that went a few years with the rod being too tight and it was never diagnosed. The dealer kept replacing pads & rotors 'till it went out of warrantee and I got hired to fix it. Being that one was dragging more than the other it's unlikely the master, had that been in your first post I wouldn't have gone to the master. Get rid of the rust, clean and lube the sliders, and make sure the caliper pistons aren't sticking and you should be good. If you can find some molybdenum disulfide paste, put some on the pad sliding friction points. You can use any dry film lubricant or anti-seize as well, just don't get any on the pads or rotors. If you use a paste, apply only a very thin film so it can't run or spread.
Ok. Thanks. The anti-seize seems like a good idea. Any grease type product concerns me that it will attract dust - especially since I drive some gravel roads. When I took the drivers side apart yesterday I noticed that the outside pad was worn a lot more than the inside pad. And the ears were much more corroded on the outside pad. I did not adjust the caliper back since this year Taurus requires the proper tool to twist the caliper back in. (Doesn't seem to be one of Ford's brightest moments?) I will probably go ahead and install new pads and pick-up the tool to adjust the caliper back in. Not sure I will go with new rotors. Is that a bad idea? Thanks again. Rob
COMMENT by DonziGT230 , July 09, 2014
Cars that use the caliper as the parking brake need a tool to retract the pistons because of how the mechanism works. New rotors aren't needed if yours aren't damaged or worn out. Make sure the parking brake cable isn't rusty and sticking too. Good call on no grease. The paste, anti seize, or dry lubes are safe.
Thanks very much for your time.
COMMENT by DonziGT230 , July 10, 2014
Your welcome. If these things don't fix it chime back in.