Volvo V70 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Thanks for helping me with stupid questions. I am just wondering if a well meaning person put too much in and if it will damage the car if i dont figure out how to remove some oil! Thanks.
CAR ALARM LIGHT KEEPS FLASHING EVEN IF i HAVE IT UNLOCKED Any ideas why?
Also does shining light from the rear make the alarm active? My taillights act up (flash) when I come up at night with the lights on.
Hello, and thanks for reading this! I am the proud owner of a 1998 Volvo V70 Wagon that broke down. The car would make a clunking sound up front, so I think it is in the engine area. The acceleration slowly stopped, until the point where it wouldn't accelerate at all, meaning the car wouldn't move. Then the car died. When I tried to start it, a puff of smoke came from under the hood. Please help or give advice!
i checked all the locks and the main light, nothing helped
If a head gasket goes on these engines is the bottom end still in pretty good shape or replace
It overheated in the snow couldn't get to an off-ramp by the time I got off the thing was so hot it buried the dial an stalled. It bellowed black smoke out of the top of the engine..an won't start , it turns over but it's like it don't have no resistance
Recently serviced car i.e new genuine plugs,airfilter, fuel filter, engine oil. Will accelerate with no problems even up to high speeds but as decelerating to stop or turn revs go right down till it cuts. Will however start immediately.
The safety valve in the oil pump is broken and won't release excess pressure.
Have change TCV but no efekt.Thanks
Changed fuel pump and after driving car for 10 to fifteen minutes fuel gage went from 1/4 tank to 1/2 tank to empty and stayed empty
they r coming on randomly and without a key in the ignition. the switch is in the off mode. HELP
car overheated with no warning, temp gage remained in the middle.neck broke off radiator,dumped out.message read "pull over". I was on a 2 lane road, in traffic.Blown head gasket and warped heads.Not enough warning time to pull over. Mechanic told me that it did not have a volvo radiator in it and that volvo radiator would not have done that.Bought the car from Ford agency 1 1/2 yr. prior. still had car pmts to make. Why didn't my temp gage move up? Why didn't i have ample warning time? Was the agency responsible to inform me that an aftermarket radiator was in the car.Volvo radiators don't have plastic to break. Could there be an underlying cause that made the hose break away from the radiator? like maybe the fan or water pump or a sensor or thermostat failure. My car is the most beautiful car and I love my car. $$ is a big issue.Mechanic says engine is destroyed. What to do? No one will help me. Im unemployed cuz I care for my 94 yr old mom.This whole thing is really really sad. All I do is cry.
I took the car into my service place 6 months ago and they could not find anything .( I have 55,000 miles on it). i got new tires today and asked them at Firestone. They said it was my front struts making the noise and they needed replacing. It would be over $1000. Am i getting ripped off as a female no knowing about cars?
Car passed CA smog test by the numbers but failed the visual. After idling for 15 mins they snap revved it 3 times. Puff of blue smoke on 1st 2 revs then cleared up. Has only started to puff a little smoke after idle in about the last 3 months. Have owned it for the last 2 years (40,000 miles). Developed an intermittent miss a few months ago. Check Engine light came on. Checked with diagnostic tool and it identified problem cylinder. Checked plug leads with Ohms meter and that cylinder had bad lead. Replaced all leads and plugs. Check engine light went off, missing stopped and car seemed to run better than it ever had. When I checked compression all cylinders OK except one @ 60% of average but it was not the same cylinder as the one that had the bad lead and which had caused the check engine light to come on. When I did wet compression test (a little oil down spark plug hole) compression increased to about 80% of average. Worn Bore/rings? Worn valve/valve-seat? Worn Valve stem, seal, guide?
Car still seems to run smooth and strong. Uses about a quart oil every 2,000 miles. Would a product like Rislone Ring Seal Smoke Repair, Bars Leak Professional Valve Seal Oil Consumption Repair, or the Restore product, or something else be worth trying to see if it can pass smog and get a couple more years before throw away or repair? What do you think:
1. Is the most likely cause of the problem?
2. Has somebody had any luck with one of the above products or something else that might temporarily stop the puffs of blue smoke after lingthy idle so I can get it to pass smog?
THANKS for the input!
A shop scanned my car with a computer and it has twenty codes. How do I know what the codes mean ?
when the car gets up to running temperature the power steeering becomes very noisy it makes a whining noise when the steering wheel is moved from side to side have checked the fluid level in the tank and all seems ok (its not noisy when first started only when hot )
power steering works ok but when the car gets up to temperature the steering makes a whining noise when the steering wheel is moved from side to side have checked the fluid level in the tank and all seems ok. ( not noisy when cold )
I will driving along at a 50 mph come to a stop sign engine stays on then cuts off as I try to move on. When I restart - the engine comes back on right away.
Mechanics did what they called a chemical test and say they can't find anything wrong with engine.
the seat belt in the middle and the end are so tight it wont let it up any suggestions please
2004 Volvo V70R AWD
Recently, my 1999 V70 started losing power while driving. Would happen at any speed, rpm, temp etc. One (two?) cylinder(s) will randomly drop out and leave me crawling along until I can find a safe spot to pull over. Usually all it takes is waiting a few minutes and things will kick in again, and it'll run normal for many miles, until it randomly happens all over again. Sometimes it will run problem free for several hours/miles, but the problem always returns eventually, when you least expect it..!
I changed the plugs, and, for a few days, the problem seemed to be gone entirely. However, the problem is still there - only less severe and less frequent. The misfires and all out cylinder quits now happen about 1/10th of the time they used to before I changed the plugs, but they still do happen.
I inspected the plug wires and caps while changing the plugs, and they seem solid without any breaches. I did not remove the air box to take a good look at the distributor cap.
Is the problem in the distributor cap/rotor? Can a cap/rotor problem be partially alleviated by changing to new plugs like I did? Moisture in the dist. cap??
What do I replace next to diagnose this intermittent, annoying (at times dangerous)problem?
Thanks for any insight.