258
questions

stalls quite often, accelerates on occasion

AC on 72 degrees is blowing out hot air but if on 62 degrees it gets cold right away. Also the recirculation button and the AC button both turn on for approx. 20 seconds before turning off. What could be wrong?

My water pump is leaking. I want to replace the pump, timing belt and tensioner at the same time. The parts store says it could have a manual or automatic tensioner and they need the engine code. Where is this number located? Also I need to change the ABS module. Where it is located and is there special equipent needed to change this module?

when turning, the steering wheel sounds like a "donkey" wineing.

Where is this relay switch located. just changed fuel pump,new battery and car still doesnt want to start

radio has not been working--need to get the word code back so i can resrt

I have checked the fuses and they appear to be OK. In fact, I replace #11 (Brake Lights) and it still does not work. Is there something else to check before taking it to a shop for electrical analysis?

Computer tests revealed cracked hose at the evap shut off valve. Where is it located physically. Can't seem to see it anywhere. Thanks Paul

After replacing a cracked hose at the evap shut off valve do you have to run any checks to make sure the system is working properly? Thank you. Paul

dear Sir/madam
Not sure about the cylinder.
Since about 2 weeks while driving the engine switches off in the begining it happened when I slowed down going round a 'roundabout' At first I thought it had to do when switched from the cruise control & then braked lightly. Later I tried it with just braking with the brake pedal without using the cruise control to slow down.
This morning it also switched off coming to a stop sign.

The car starts ok but when I accelerate it to start moving off have to give extra gas.

Idling does not seem to affect the running of the engine.

Please advise.

Sincerely
Ronald Joshua

check engine light came on a couple weeks ago - last week car died at stop light - has happened a few more times since - sometimes the temp gauge drops lower than norm and once it dropped to cold just prior to dying...after sitting a couple of minutes each time it stops -it will start up fine.....diagnostic reflects the above...someone has suggested it may be the ignition coil ...is this likely the problem - and can a good 'ole boy general mechanic complete the replacement or is this some high tech job that is best done at a volvo shop?

Engine Check Light

I just had the MAS replaced 10 days ago. The car refused to start earlier today and my mechanic (same one) now says it is the Engine Coolant Sensor. Are the two related? How much should it cost? Thanks.

Recently My car was hit in the rear drivers side door. Since getting it back from the repair shop my elec system is crazy. First it was the tail light blinking off and on then the door locks now the speedometer. The body shop says they didn't do it. I checked the fuses and battery connections. ANY ideas.

When the A/C is on I hear an irregular gurgling/knocking from behind the dash, more towards the passenger side. First thought would be the drain tube is clogged, this is not the case, it was clear. I blew through the tube throught the bottom of the car, that was clear too. I fished a cable up into the tank, but didn't come back with any gunk or anything. I'm not sure where to go from here.

the problem occurs quite often every time I hit a bump in the road.

My car only has less than 100,000 miles on it but needs various jobs...Front shocks and struts, rear shocks, will probably require brake drum regrinding or replacement soon, tires. It also suffers from problems with the power windows and door locks, bulb out on radio; the sort of annoyance problems that begin to plague an old car. But engine is great, interior clean, body not bad (though there is a bit of rust on the front door.
We have been using Volvo factory service which does a good job but is expensive. These repairs will probably cost at least $2-3 thousand. Is it worth it?

Looking to buy a 2000 S70 and wondering if anyone has a maintanence schedule for this car? It currently has 92K on it and I'm wondering what maintanence should have been completed by now and what is upcoming. Thanks in advance for your help! Oh, buying for $3000. Is that reasonable?

Liz

How come my 1999 Volvo S70 blows hot air?

drove the car then stop and turned the car off and it will not start back and it is not getting no gas

How can you tell when your hydraulic Modulator is going bad?

Can the AC compressor be bypassed? If so, would you by chance know what size belt would be required for the task?

Where is the ECU located?

My car wouldn't start one day. Didn't turn over at all. Just a clicking sound. Somebody jumped the car for me, then on the way home, I had all sorts of other electrical issues, e.g., various warning lights coming on and off and the traction control mode coming on and off too. Now, still can't start the car, but interior lights, vacuum locks, etc. still work. I can still jump the car to start it. Is this an alternator problem?

I am hearing a roaring noise coming from the left side front wheel. Rotated tires did not change the noise. Any ideas on what the problem is?

how come my check engine and brake and abs lights come on? also a flashing orange arrow comes on

Low coolent light began to illuminate a few months ago. Used BARD's leak stopper and worked well for a few months.

Yesterday light came on again. ( No overheating signs) Replaced coolent. However, after a few miles light came on again. This time used BARDS again. Looked under neath and found coolent leaking. Opened hood and found coolent had splashed. Can this be a radiator hose problem? Or can it be something more profound? Note. No engine light occurances

the car drives fine but due to this coolant leak after the car is run for awhile it over heats coolant leaks to the floor of my pass. side floor board and when this occurs the car runs hot and my oil light has started to come on in conjunction.

This started about 3 weeks after the "Check Engine" light came on. I haven't gotten chance to go check out what the code it's throwing. The engine rev at around 900 rpm during idle, I frankly haven't own the car for long enough to remember what it used to idle at.
Basically I start the car, and if I leave it idle it would stall after less than 1 minutes. Also when I am cruising down the highway, it would occasionally jerk a little as if it's losing power? (but I didn't really lost power).
When I came to a stop light, and try to go again, the engine seems like it was going to stall, but fortunately it didn't.
I am taking it into a shop to check it out, but would love opinion as to what may be wrong with it.

used 2 bottles of replacement fluid w/stop leak last month