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WHEN I START MY S60 2.0 turbo IT IDLES ERRATIC THEN SMOOTH THEN YOU HERE A CLICK AND IT IDLES ERRATIC AGAIN AND IT KEEPS DOING THAT IDLE SPEED BUT DRIVES SMOOTHLY BUT WHEN I STOP AT SAY A TRAFFIC LIGHT IT STARTS IDLING ERRATIC AGAIN CAN ANYONE HELP THANKS
my 2002 S60 keeps tripping the check engine light. I have had the code pulled twice. Both times it said misfire #4 cyl. I have replaced plugs and wires. Light comes on for a few days, and then goes out for a day then comes on again. Car has 178 k miles on it. New timing belt 10k miles ago. Any ideas whats tripping this light ? - Thanks Steve
I was driving down the road and i punched it to go by a guy and right after i went by him my check engine light started to blink so when i slowed down to turn around the engine began to struggle to idle (almost like it was going to stall). This is the first problem i have ever had with the engine.
I was loosing coolant was told by Volvo that it was raidiator so put bars leak in it and worked for awhile while saved money to fix right took it in to import shop that works on Volvo and they said they pressurized system no raidator leak that had a blown head gasket said it was going to cost $3000.00....andy56guy engine was not overheating if any thing it was running cooler
Backup lamps do not work and both bulbs have been replaced? How do I repair this?
I recently started experiencing a vibration when accelerating particularyly uphill. I raised car and when looking for loose or worn joints found tht the drive axle is loose as it enters one of the boot covered joints. Loud clicking sound as well. Does just the CV joint need to be replaced or is it easier to just replace the entire drive axle. Or are the systems indicating another issue.
Ok, 2 months ago I had some issues with the idling of my car, check engine light was on and it was going through oil and gas mileage was getting worse so I took it in to a mechanic. Mechanic did diagnostic and stated it was turbo sensor and the turbo was bad as it was leaking oil internally. I proceeded to get a used turbo and paid for job to be completed.
Fast forward 1 month. Was driving up a small mountain pass and I heard a loud pop in the engine and pulled over. Looked under hood and didn't see anything bad (I know nothing about cars, but am not stupid either) or smell anything bad after the initial pop in which I smelled oil. Car was still running so I completed the drive down the pass into my families town. After I got there and stopped the car, it would start up again but not hold the idle or drive forward or in reverse. Towed the car back to San Diego and dropped off at the shop that did my turbo. They looked at it and said it was the catalytic converter. I have an "acquaintance" at church who has his own shop and asked me to look at it. Next day I had a tow truck meet me at the shop to get the car to take to my church friends shop and the car started right up and drove over to friends shop.
Next day, my friend called me and told me to come down to look at the issue. He showed me spark plugs were drowning in oil as there was a crack in valve cover gasket so I was not getting proper spark so that was why my car was shutting down. He quoted me verbally that they need to change the valve cover gasket, spark plugs, seals and gaskets, and oil. While they were in there, he recommended changing timing kit and water pump as well since they are opening it up. He does not have the proper tool to open up the valve cover gasket so he has a colleague in other shop across the street who will do it for him. Mind you I had lights replaced and brakes done as well by him and he said he wouldn't charge me labor since the valve cover gasket job is expensive ($640 for parts, $600 for labor). I thought I was being well taken care of and felt very happy even though another mechanic friend of mine said $600 was 2 jobs, so I figured he was getting some $ out of that for my brakes, lights, etc.
Fast forward 1 month again. I had noticed my car was losing oil again but wasn't acting up badly and we were going to go back over the pass to in-laws for the weekend. I put 1 quart of oil in and started making the drive up the pass again. Well half way up the pass, my car started acting up and check engine light started flashing so I made sure to turn around on next exit and drive back down to home. Did so and car was still acting up. Got off freeway on my exit and came to a stop and the car was shaking badly and sounded like it wanted to give out. Called friend and told him I think it was the same problem and he said to bring it in on the 5th.
Took it in on 5th, next day he calls me and said my 3rd valve was bent and bad and I need a valve job now! I explained all of this to my brother who has worked on a ton of cars in his life and he said it sounded like when they did the timing kit, the valve was torqued down too much and that's why this happened. I explained this to my friend and he said that was not the issue, that the valve went bad because the ignition coil went out and so my valve went bad. He said he can do the job for me for around $1000 but I feel that I am being taken and that the cause of the valve going bad was from bad work done on the car 1 month prior. Please let me know what you think as I want this to be taken care of by the person who did this with no money out of my pocket due to negligence. BTW, I have not received any paperwork stating what was done on cover, timing kit, water pump job.
There is a high pitch noise/whining came from the front side of my car when I was driving on the highway around 70mph (it also happened before on local way). It lasted a few minutes each time and continued happened for an hour. It won't disappear when I speed up, slow down, turn on/off the AC or even stop. Even I turned off the engine, the noise was still there for 5 to 30 seconds.
According to Autozone this code is for the "Intake valve control solenoid circuit range/performance bank 1."
Is this a correct description for the code on a 2005 Volvo S60? If so, what could be the causes for the code and how could I fix it?
what is the R&I for the turbocharger
The air conditioner is not blowing fast no matter what speed it is turned to. I had the blower replaced and the blower control knob. Neither seems to be the problem. It is still not blowing at a high speed.
What kind of manual transmission fluid does a 2005 Volvo S60 2.4l need and what are the changing intervals recommended?
The interior computer screen words gets jumbled and distorted after being on for a while. When the car is first started for the day it works fine though for all warnings.What does this mean?
Ive had a constant problem with my s60 2.4t for a couple years now. Whenever I hold full throttle it goes into limp mode after about 6 seconds of full boost(1.0bar..stage 3 tune/supporting mods)
Originally fixed the problem with new heavy duty turbo control valve, silicone vacuum lines, and replaced the turbo outlet hose which had a huge rip in it.
Ofcourse the problem is back, but it seems to happen much quicker in the summer months, during cold weather it will often not hit limp mode(brutal limited 5psi)
Ive replaced plenty of parts to deal with boost including compressor bypass valve and spring, all vacuum tubing, heavy duty turbo outlet hose and intercooler inlet hose (IPD`s), boost pressure sensor,intake air temperature sensor, fuel injector gaskets, and I`ve gone over everything that holds pressure when in boost not finding any more leaks (also used a smoke machine that incorporates 10 lbs of pressure with the smoke)
So im starting back over from scratch and trying to get rid of all my DTC`s .
Im getting P0137, P1132, P1237.
Just replaced both 02 sensors about a year ago, so they shouldnt be bad already so Im assuming its something else upstream of the sensors.
plugs and regular tune up items are well maintained. None of the vacuum lines appear to be pinched or loosely connected limiting flow either
ANY help is GREATLY appreciated thanks in advance
what tool is used specifically to remove a transmission coolant line from the radiator? i have tried two different cool line tool removers, to remove pressure clip fittings...please help
car starts and stalls in about 2 seconds,,no code is givin by actron cp9125. when first detected engine light flashed and clicking noise at fisrt now nothing except stalling.car was bought in lancaster,pa
the dash lights and gauges on my 2002 s60 will be on when i start the car then after about 5 minutes they cut of and dont come back on. trying to find out what it is or what it could be any help would be appreciated
I would like to know with money being so low Is there any way to check tranmission fluid yourself instead of paying the dealership
Has anyone seen a handprint on the inside of the head light. I have one and have seen them on other s60's at the dealership. Volvo said they would not replace the lamp
s60 wouldn't start so added distilled water to battery, jumped car, drove around for 30 minutes and parked it. after 5 or 10 minutes heard either a sizzling sound or like water running-- found nothing them smelled rubber burning, again found nothing. smell and sound eventually disappeared.any clues.
I just bought this car yesterday drove it for 30 mins and the No oil pressure-stop asap message came up. I pulled over turn the car off, stop engine for about 5 mins and started the car again. Message went away then within 1 min the message came back on and the engine started knocking. Sounds like the piston knocking. Please advise what you think may be the problem. Thanks
The car has 87,000 miles. It is super clean inside and out.
had car problems got that code and trying to figure out what it means
every time i warm up my volvo it begins to hesitate then it turns off, whats wrong?
how to replace hub assembly on 2004 volvo s60
after 1.5 - hrs of travel [city/highway no diff]
My car's AWD quits working. What could possibly be wrong by most accounts? I was told the OIL Pump needs to be replaced. I thought oil pump functions in circulating oil to lubricate engine components. What's that got to do with kicking in the AWD? Sorry, I just probably am so naive about car mechanics.
Only happens after car is warmed up. When auto is cold it operates perfectly.
Receiving message time for regular service checkup and also multiple lights failure. Would either of these cause the car to shutdown. I was driving on the interstate when the multiple light failure kept flashing rapidly showing low beam, once I exited it was the low beam and care shut off but restarted immediately.