Volvo S60 Questions
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I think something is causeing throttle bodys to go out. Dealer says it is a bad Throttle body and they are Bosch Oem type.
Any light of what could be wrong.
I am Salesman that does not want to take back any more throttle bodies.
why does my alarm not sound when i arm or disarm it and i dont have a car menu to alter it thanks
HI THERE WHEN I PLUG IN MY
U480 OBD2 Car Diagnostic Fault Code Reader Scanner IT SCANS AND SAYS NO CODES IS THIS GOOD OR BAD BUT THE PROBLEM IS I HAVE AN ERRATIC IDLE WHICH IS MOST DEFINATELY THE ETM SO WHY WONT IT SHOW A CODE FOR THAT ANY HELP PLEASE THANKS
The Volvo dealer says the control arms are bad and need replacing but I do not see it on your estimate sight.
will a U480 OBD2 Car Diagnostic Fault Code Reader Scanner work on a volvo s60t thanks
rear door drivers side
why does my volvo idle erraticly when engine is hot but is fine when cold also if i turn the steering wheel or put on the ac, runs like a dream forbye that just when i am idling at traffic lights or traffic jam there is no vacume leak could it be the rtm needing cleaned or the maf just had the car serviced any help please
How are the horns replaced? Do I need to remove the grill and how is it done?
i have a volvo s60 t on the drivers door i have the windows controls mirror controls ect but one thing is confusing me is i have a like a matchstick man in a circle can anyone tell me whats that for thanks
as to what would be the cause
My 2008 Volvo S60 2.0 T is stuck in park position. I can start the engine. The brake lights lit when press the brake pedal. The gear shifter is not stuck ( I suppose cause I can press on it). I can hear click and can feel something at the gear shifter everytime I step on the brake pedal but I cant move the shifter from park (P) position. The car was not use for a couple of days in the garage. What else should I checked. Help please.
My Volvo only has 54k miles on it. I bought it new, it's a 2003, & basically only use it to drive to work and back. Surface streets with an average commute of 5 miles, round trip.
My radiator has already been replaced as well. Am I crazy or should this car last a little bit longer. I know it's been almost 9 years but it's only got 54000 miles. I expected a little more longevity out of it especially being a Volvo. I drove a Mazda B2000 pick up for 18 years and put over 200K on it & didn't have these issues. Change the fluids, keep her clean, good to go. My Volvo is in great shape but with the price they told me to fix the transmission it may as well be totaled. I'm dumbfounded...
I have 72,000 miles and it is 9 years old.
how do you turn down or up the idle speed on a volvo s60 2 litre turbo engine
can a volvo s60 run with the ema broken thanks
change filter once per year
WHEN I START MY S60 2.0 turbo IT IDLES ERRATIC THEN SMOOTH THEN YOU HERE A CLICK AND IT IDLES ERRATIC AGAIN AND IT KEEPS DOING THAT IDLE SPEED BUT DRIVES SMOOTHLY BUT WHEN I STOP AT SAY A TRAFFIC LIGHT IT STARTS IDLING ERRATIC AGAIN CAN ANYONE HELP THANKS
my 2002 S60 keeps tripping the check engine light. I have had the code pulled twice. Both times it said misfire #4 cyl. I have replaced plugs and wires. Light comes on for a few days, and then goes out for a day then comes on again. Car has 178 k miles on it. New timing belt 10k miles ago. Any ideas whats tripping this light ? - Thanks Steve
I was driving down the road and i punched it to go by a guy and right after i went by him my check engine light started to blink so when i slowed down to turn around the engine began to struggle to idle (almost like it was going to stall). This is the first problem i have ever had with the engine.
I was loosing coolant was told by Volvo that it was raidiator so put bars leak in it and worked for awhile while saved money to fix right took it in to import shop that works on Volvo and they said they pressurized system no raidator leak that had a blown head gasket said it was going to cost $3000.00....andy56guy engine was not overheating if any thing it was running cooler
Backup lamps do not work and both bulbs have been replaced? How do I repair this?
I recently started experiencing a vibration when accelerating particularyly uphill. I raised car and when looking for loose or worn joints found tht the drive axle is loose as it enters one of the boot covered joints. Loud clicking sound as well. Does just the CV joint need to be replaced or is it easier to just replace the entire drive axle. Or are the systems indicating another issue.
Ok, 2 months ago I had some issues with the idling of my car, check engine light was on and it was going through oil and gas mileage was getting worse so I took it in to a mechanic. Mechanic did diagnostic and stated it was turbo sensor and the turbo was bad as it was leaking oil internally. I proceeded to get a used turbo and paid for job to be completed.
Fast forward 1 month. Was driving up a small mountain pass and I heard a loud pop in the engine and pulled over. Looked under hood and didn't see anything bad (I know nothing about cars, but am not stupid either) or smell anything bad after the initial pop in which I smelled oil. Car was still running so I completed the drive down the pass into my families town. After I got there and stopped the car, it would start up again but not hold the idle or drive forward or in reverse. Towed the car back to San Diego and dropped off at the shop that did my turbo. They looked at it and said it was the catalytic converter. I have an "acquaintance" at church who has his own shop and asked me to look at it. Next day I had a tow truck meet me at the shop to get the car to take to my church friends shop and the car started right up and drove over to friends shop.
Next day, my friend called me and told me to come down to look at the issue. He showed me spark plugs were drowning in oil as there was a crack in valve cover gasket so I was not getting proper spark so that was why my car was shutting down. He quoted me verbally that they need to change the valve cover gasket, spark plugs, seals and gaskets, and oil. While they were in there, he recommended changing timing kit and water pump as well since they are opening it up. He does not have the proper tool to open up the valve cover gasket so he has a colleague in other shop across the street who will do it for him. Mind you I had lights replaced and brakes done as well by him and he said he wouldn't charge me labor since the valve cover gasket job is expensive ($640 for parts, $600 for labor). I thought I was being well taken care of and felt very happy even though another mechanic friend of mine said $600 was 2 jobs, so I figured he was getting some $ out of that for my brakes, lights, etc.
Fast forward 1 month again. I had noticed my car was losing oil again but wasn't acting up badly and we were going to go back over the pass to in-laws for the weekend. I put 1 quart of oil in and started making the drive up the pass again. Well half way up the pass, my car started acting up and check engine light started flashing so I made sure to turn around on next exit and drive back down to home. Did so and car was still acting up. Got off freeway on my exit and came to a stop and the car was shaking badly and sounded like it wanted to give out. Called friend and told him I think it was the same problem and he said to bring it in on the 5th.
Took it in on 5th, next day he calls me and said my 3rd valve was bent and bad and I need a valve job now! I explained all of this to my brother who has worked on a ton of cars in his life and he said it sounded like when they did the timing kit, the valve was torqued down too much and that's why this happened. I explained this to my friend and he said that was not the issue, that the valve went bad because the ignition coil went out and so my valve went bad. He said he can do the job for me for around $1000 but I feel that I am being taken and that the cause of the valve going bad was from bad work done on the car 1 month prior. Please let me know what you think as I want this to be taken care of by the person who did this with no money out of my pocket due to negligence. BTW, I have not received any paperwork stating what was done on cover, timing kit, water pump job.
There is a high pitch noise/whining came from the front side of my car when I was driving on the highway around 70mph (it also happened before on local way). It lasted a few minutes each time and continued happened for an hour. It won't disappear when I speed up, slow down, turn on/off the AC or even stop. Even I turned off the engine, the noise was still there for 5 to 30 seconds.
According to Autozone this code is for the "Intake valve control solenoid circuit range/performance bank 1."
Is this a correct description for the code on a 2005 Volvo S60? If so, what could be the causes for the code and how could I fix it?
what is the R&I for the turbocharger
The air conditioner is not blowing fast no matter what speed it is turned to. I had the blower replaced and the blower control knob. Neither seems to be the problem. It is still not blowing at a high speed.
What kind of manual transmission fluid does a 2005 Volvo S60 2.4l need and what are the changing intervals recommended?
The interior computer screen words gets jumbled and distorted after being on for a while. When the car is first started for the day it works fine though for all warnings.What does this mean?
Ive had a constant problem with my s60 2.4t for a couple years now. Whenever I hold full throttle it goes into limp mode after about 6 seconds of full boost(1.0bar..stage 3 tune/supporting mods)
Originally fixed the problem with new heavy duty turbo control valve, silicone vacuum lines, and replaced the turbo outlet hose which had a huge rip in it.
Ofcourse the problem is back, but it seems to happen much quicker in the summer months, during cold weather it will often not hit limp mode(brutal limited 5psi)
Ive replaced plenty of parts to deal with boost including compressor bypass valve and spring, all vacuum tubing, heavy duty turbo outlet hose and intercooler inlet hose (IPD`s), boost pressure sensor,intake air temperature sensor, fuel injector gaskets, and I`ve gone over everything that holds pressure when in boost not finding any more leaks (also used a smoke machine that incorporates 10 lbs of pressure with the smoke)
So im starting back over from scratch and trying to get rid of all my DTC`s .
Im getting P0137, P1132, P1237.
Just replaced both 02 sensors about a year ago, so they shouldnt be bad already so Im assuming its something else upstream of the sensors.
plugs and regular tune up items are well maintained. None of the vacuum lines appear to be pinched or loosely connected limiting flow either
ANY help is GREATLY appreciated thanks in advance