Volvo S60 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
get a engine high temperature message and gauge is showing hot, but no leakage of coolant and also checked coolant level, it is good. also fan motor running after turn engine off
checked coolant and also cranked and ran, not blowing any steam or running like it is overheating. fan is running after shutdown.
Noticed that my Engine goes off when I'm in a hold-up. What could be the likely cause and Resolution please
Not hot air is or any air at all is coming out of the car's vents.
Hi, please may I know what to do to correct my car from starting on all gear I.e drive and reverser
Tried every Torx bit out there. Thanks!
However the high beams, running and rear lights work but need to be turned off and on manually. I think I am going to be told this is a CEM gone bad but would like to hear from others if there is a way I can check for this so I don't pay more than I should.
I have a 2004 S60 with 135k on it and I have maintained it regularly, using independent shops in the Denver Area for large jobs requiring special tools and have also made several electrical system repairs to it myself.
This fall after changing the cabin air filter the climate system has a malfunction and will come on in the HOT defrost mode only. When the car is first powered up the blower will be full blast in the front defrost mode. I can turn the blower down but it still blows hot air through the defrost ports below the front windshield. It gets very hot in the cabin, so I am thankful it is winter.
I had lunch with a client whom owns a repair shop and he put a scan tool on it and it generated the following codes: CCM-000C Right Temperature Damper Motor, Signal too low, CCM-000F Damper Motor, Defroster, Signal too low.
We decided to re-set the system using the scan tool and following the re-set procedures then the system generated the following codes: CCM-000C Right Temperature Damper Motor, Fault, CCM-000F Damper Motor, Defroster, Fault.
So I could surely throw parts at this and replace the Damper Motors, but am curious if anyone has dealt with this issue and can comment if changing the motors solved the issue, or if there is another component that should be checked.
Brought it to a mechanic who reported the following after running an ABS Diagnostic Service Test: Inspect and record fault codes stored in Abs System. Codes: Message displayed "brake failure stop safely" ABS Light on, ABS Light on, Red Brake light on, traction control light on. Connect scan too. Could not give me a price because he didnt know how much it cost,looking for an estimated cost for labor and parts.
when the car is running it idels rough and wont accelerate when in gear or park top speed is about 18mph i put obd2 on it and said shift selanoid code
How do you remove the trans lines from the radiator have to replace the radiator Volvo S-60 2002 Thanks
gearbox slipped into reverse when going from 5th into drive.
On the Freeway. Grinding!!!!! Was able to move back into drive quickly but still thought the damage was done. Nope. Drove home without incident. Internal damage is unknown but car runs normal. Friend said to take in & check log for gearbox syncing incident. Anyone else ever have this happen?
Hi all, my warning triangle as turned red and the left hand display is saying srs urgent service, I've had to replace the battery and the alternator but this light won't go,any ideas where I can check myself 1st as I'm not a mechanical minded person and don't trust most garages, thanks for reading my issue.
when i put take off from a stop, the front wheels squeal, when I make a sharp turn the front wheels squeal. When I try stopping suddenly the feeling is as if the front brake pads are skipping over the part that helps the braking system stops. In other words I am afraid that if I have to stop suddenly, the breaking system will not work. properly.
After driving in traffic, my transmission shifts hard. Started happening at around 20 mph when not pushing on gas but now it happens more often and at acceleration at any speed, even from a complete stop.
I mean sometimes really if I don't catch it violently slams back into gear it has broken all trans mounts (replaced)and three engine mounts which I now have to replace them all again. it dosnt happen all the time and it cruises perfectly on the highway someone said moduals no codes have ever come uo and im at a school with the top three scan tools available thanks for your time in advance
If there is not, is there any way I can fix this myself?
The test they did at a friends shop showed all the connectors have the same reading.
car was loosing power but kept running, very little power, stopped and turned it off then when I started it ran fine a few minutes then did the same thing. check engine lite was flashig while engine was running with little power, trans shifted fine just took a long time because car was only going 25-30 mph ????
it was still running but very little power and the dash display read "slow down or shift up" I stopped turned off the car and when I started it and took off it ran normal for a few minutes then did the same thing. also the check engine lite flashs when the engine looses power
To stop the blis light, stop the engine & start again. Should I change or repair the blis sensor?
The "normal service required" message began flashing just two days ago, To My Surprise....
i have changed front wheel bearings but still the same
AS stated above, at times when I go to start my car (cold or warm), It seems to struggle to turn over and at times it just fires right up. This has been going on now for 6 months, Till 2 days ago I was at the store and when I got back inot my car and tried to star it it jsut made a grinding sound and slowly started to struggle more and more as if the battery was dead. I sort of pumped the accel a bit (but! that is pointless with all the electronics) And I let it sit 30 sec. tried to start it again it made that horrible slow grinding sound again, then all of a sudden it made a pop and the engine started right up. It was idling smoothly and as normal and drove home Onegin quiet/smooth ran normal.
I just assumed it was the battery since it is the orig battery. I have had AAA come out they ran a diagnostics and found the battery , to mine and his amazement, was in grt shape fully charging 600A. The diagnostic checked the alternator and starter as well, The starter showed some declining in voltage below 12V and dropped (meter down to below 8 volts during start up. So! he said the problem is with the starter.
Now here is my concern!, Even though this is a 2008 S60, which means 8 yrs old!. I only have 18,500 real/orig miles on this car I am the original owner and purchased new.
I have had no issues in fact this has been one super nice trouble free car. Well up till this started!! :).
Again when all this is going on the dashboard instruments, (check engine light doesn't light up except during starts of course) and on board messaging center give no warnings or alerts to a problem.
Aren't starters typically have a life span of 100K and up , not 18K.. :((
I read it could be as minor as dirt that may have gotten into the connector (electrical) or a cracked connector or exposed wire, insulation is cut near the starter, or a flywheel issue, etc.. If a flywheel , well that raises even more!!! questions