408
questions

MY VOLVO S40 2.4I CURRENTLY I NOTICE A RATTLING METALIC NOISE WHENEVER I STEP ON THE GAS PADEL,I ONLY HEAR THE NOISE WHEN THE CAR IS HOT AND ON SETTEN RMP, BEEN DRIVING IT FOR WEEK NOW AND NO CHECK LIGHT AND ITS DRIVES FINE,THE NOISE IS COMING FROM THE FRONT SIDE PASSANGER SIDE. I ALREADY CHANGE THE TWO BELT TENSIONER AND IT DOESNT SOLVE THE PROBLEM AND I HEARD IT COULD BE THE VVT PULLY. GUYS HELP THIS NOISE IS KILLING ME . THANKS

are these serious? are they easy fixes? thanks for your time

I'd like to know where this fuel pressure regulator is located, and about what it looks like. The Site says it's the fuel pressure regulator or the vacuum line attached to it that is causing it to have starting problems. I've had a diagnostic run a couple of times and no codes come up, which, according to this Site, is common. This regulator or the plumbing to it seems to be my problem.

When I start my vehicle it runs very loud. Then while I am driving there is a rattling sound right side of vehicle under the hood. What could this be? Just started the past few days

2004 s40 w/1.9L running rough. Wants to cut off at stop lights. Shaking badly. Hard to start sometimes. Had timing water pump and plugs to try to correct this issue. Didnt fix it. Check engine is showing all four p0301, 0302, 0303, 0304 codes. And, the p0171 code is showing as well. Where do I even begin to start with all the possibilities? Fuel pressure? Its petrol, not diesel. O2 sensor maybe? MAF? How can I bench test some of the sensors to eliminate culprits? It just dont want to run smooth and wants to shake and cut off at red lights.

The impact totaled my car the passenger side air bag deployed but not the drivers

About 2 weeks ago while driving my car just shut off. The Dash Message Read "Anti-Skid Service Required". After a few minutes a I got the car to start and drive about 20 feet and it stalled again. After trying to start it a few times, it got to the point where it wouldn't stay on at all. When taken to a mechanic he gave me these codes:

P0172, P2227, P0455 And P1719

He told me that the Air Flow sensor would keep it running. The Air Flow Sensor was replaced which the part itself costed $240. The car ran good for a little less than a week. Yesterday during a snow storm, the car stalled again with the same message. The car would not stay started and rattled a little bit. Any ideas?

i had the engine light on. i fixed the mass air flow sensor. but the engine is still on.

I was told car may need a new starter also told it could be the cylinoid. Dont know anything about need help!!!

Was working fine and now does not crank over no sound at all battery is new
Got codes P0014 - P0015

in this price you are charging does it include the Radiator? like are you bringing your own radiator?

Repair man said that all valves were warped but could be fixed and no piston damage, after having it for a month now they said that the entire engine may need swapped. What does this sound like to you and what kind of money are we looking at?

my son is going to drive his Volvo s40 1000 miles and we are trying to decide if we need to do the timing belt first. Plus the shop quoted us replacement for TB tensioner pulley, TB idler pulley, frnt crankshaft seal, water pump, thermostate and access drive belts. Do I need to do all this which is over $1300.

is getting stuck and it won't start. I was almost unable to get the key back to the position where I could remove it as it was sticking then also

Just changed my radiator through my intercooler system, and now when i start my car it works fine if my foot stays on the gas but the second i move my foot the car stalls. I had no hang ups in replacing the radiator i had a damaged hose to the overflow tank but took care of that too, I am thinking that maybe one of the vacuum hoses are not on tight enough? It never had a hint of a problem before this and i just started it and moved my car right before i started working on it. Its my only car right now so any advice would be helpful!!!

If i use D it works but if i change it to manual, it still on D and dont make any change can you helpme,

No smoke, or oil leak. Just replaced TRT UF303T ignition coil. Check engine light was off for the first 100 miles and back again. Mechanic said its the turbo and very expensive to replace.