Volvo S40 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
The key will not turn, happens alot.
The first thing that happened was that it wouldn't start on the first turn. Then it stalled at a red light - then, I was driving 45 but the car was trying to go 70 - it was like cruise control was on - I had no control of the car. The breaks felt weak. At the same time, my temperature guage was going up to almost the red area and then dropping to the bottom then back up to middle ( normal) - all this was happening within seconds/minutes of each other. The car would calm down and the temp gauge would be normal then, it would accelerate and the guage would react - this went on for 10 miles before I could just park it. The shop replaced the idle air control valve and said it was fixed. I drove it off the lot and with 27 miles it acted the very same way. They have been test driving it for the past week trying to make it 'act up' again but it hasn't done it for them. I will not drive this car until I know the proper part/sensor/module has been replaced! It is too scary and I will have an accident or hit the car in front of me. Can you please help!
My car is due for the NYS inspection and my check engine light came on. I check and the scan code is P0456 Mod$13. What do I need to do to resolve it? Will I be able to pass my inspection if not fixed?
My Check Engine light came on and when I ran the codes with my code reader it shows MAP Sensor P000171. Well I have replaced the MAP Sensor, then both the O2 Sensors on the exhaust, the IAC, plugs and wires. Rest the code and after the second time starting it comes on after about 30 miles. Out of ideas.
rattling noise in rear when driving over even small bumps - what could it be - I thought it might be a loose muffler but it appears fine -I can't even jiggle it. The rattle noise has gotten louder over the last 2 weeks. Could this be damagerous?
My email address is firstname.lastname@example.org I would appreciate
any help to fix the water leak in my volvo
our volvo has been leaking water under the driver and passenger seats vents runs into the back and it is like a
little pool on your feet please help.
our volvo has a leak coming under the seats through
the vents please help it has been leaking for about 1 year
What's the estimated cost of replacing the motor mounts?
Just discovered behind the passenger seat floor is sopping wet. Took the floor mat out and trying to air dry the area - I have no idea what has caused this - we have had a huge amount of rain lately and the car is parked in driveway (no garage). Any help would be appreciated.
Could someone tell me where to locate the air conditioner drain line for a 2006 S40 Volvo
Just under 85K miles on car. A couple of nights ago I suddenly lost power and acceleration. Dash said "reduced engine performance". I pulled over, shut engine off and started it again. Light was off, and everything appeared back to normal - temporarily. Problem reappeared almost immediately. Found air intake hose loose both top and bottom. Looked like it was damaged at last oil change. Crack in it on the bottom. Temporarily fixed by applying duct tape, and reattaching hose securely. Performance immediately improved greatly; more responsive at slightest tap of accelerator, and light was again out. It ran great for the next 15 miles, then suddenly the same problem reappeared. It has the "feel" of a dirty fuel filter, but I don't understand how that could cause such a sudden change...? Help please! The car is no longer under warranty and I cannot afford a huge dealer bill, chasing what appears to be a very illusive problem.
it a 2000 s40 it hard starting and rev up to 4000 rpms and the rpms won't come down
Everytime I go to shut my 2006 Volvo S40 off the key no longer wants to come out. If I fiddle with it for 15 - 20 minutes it'll come out. I have tried reparking the car, turning the steering wheel, moving the wheels, backing up the car a little, moving it forward, truning the car on and off, and it is a royal pain. I have talked to the dealership and other repair shops and they all want $500 - 700 to put in a new switch. There has to be something to this as there are others that are having the same issues. Is there any recall on this? Can someone please help me get this fixed without pulling $500 - 700 out my butt???
how do myou get the valve cover of took all the bolt out still isnt coming off??
after driving for a while then stopping and putting car into park the accelerator sticks. accelerator also sticks at times while driving.
How much should I expect to pay for valve job? Also when I had new battery installed the air bag light came on, the shop claimed it was on when I came in.
My check engine light is on so I had it diagnosed. The mechanic didn't give me the code but he says I have an air leak somewhere. It was at 12.5%. My s40 is burning more fuel than usual and I can smell fuel inside the cabin. I also have a hard start. Is my car falling apart? mileage is at 147500. Seems like I'm losing power also.
How does one clean a throttle body on a 2006 volvo s40 I'm willing to try but I don't want to make matters worse, Help PLEASE. Dana
The check engine light is back on after replacing the oxygen sensors and driving 40 miles. Now what???
I've been told that these should be done together to save double labor cost.
When I put the key into the ignition, the headlights and dashboard lights light up...But when I try and start the engine---the headlights and dashboard lights just flicker on and off and engine will not start?
everything comes on when I turn key but car will not start. happened twice since saturday, this time car did not start, both times the message box said something about see manual about the immobilizer. If the keys have to be recoded to the car is this something that is covered under some warranty of the vehicle.
Regardless of what mode or fan speed, I believe it may be associated with the temp control thermostat
after 2000rpm the car fails to accelerate and and check engine light goes on. THE SCANNER CODE SHOWS THROTTLE POSITION PROBLEMS
the recovery coolant tank cracked since it's been sealed but now the car knocks when i have the car running. can i drive it to the shop or not?
A metal clanging rattling noise toward the right front around firewall when hitting any bumps or sometimes when applying slight pressure to the brakes. By applying solid pressure to the brakes the noise will stop. Letting off brake pressure abruptly will sometimes cause the clank immediately when pressure is released. Then it resumes just intermittently and constant when on rough roads. It seems to be brake related but I'm not sure. Applying solid pressure to the brakes is the only way to make it stop.
My air blower will not turn of when the car is on by simply turning the knobs to off. I can adjust the temperature but it runs on full blast the entire time the car is running. what is wrong and how can i fix it?
The weather here recently has been awful (blizzard-like conditions and lots of ice). My Volvo sat for several days un-started and when I went to start it, it wouldn't. I jumped it, got it to the dealer, and they replaced my battery. Since then, however, my car will not heat up. The blower does not blow at all. Any ideas before I dish out some more cash for a ridiculously expensive dealer repair and maintenance?
I was trying to slow down from 35 to make a right turn and my break peddal made a popping sound and my breaks went out completly and had to drive home useing the E break. What would be the cause and how would i fix this?