Volkswagen Passat QuestionsRefine by vehicle
We are planning on buying a new car within the month. We would like to get this repair done as inexpensively as possible, perhaps with a rebuilt alternator.
I rounded the star head bolt and now I can't get it out.
Ok so I bought my car about 4 months ago, it works great but the ac hardly works. So i figured id need to get it recharged, so im wondering how much would it cost to do so? is it hard to do it myself or is it better to have someone do it for me? what price range am i looking at here?
I can turn it on and drive it, just can't remove it. Tried park, neutral, the wheel, the brake etc. The diagnostic doesn't recognize the problem.
This happen often after i have driven for a while or say when the engine is hot. If you engage it to eithe drive or reverse, you will hear a heavy jack/noise either moving back or forward pending which gear you choose either reverse or drive. It doesn't do this early in the morning or when the car has cooled down. I equally notice vibration from the car when my spped gets to say 110, and on passing to above 110 (say 120 upwards) the vibration ease. Am suspecting this issues to come from the gear system. I bought the car from a friend with Odo 59,200 and presently is just only at odo 59,846.
I have read to "pry off' handle but it seems very easy to scrach or damage - I just want access to pop out a door indentation / damage. Thanks!
There are no check engine lights or error codes. I have noticed a burning smell for the last few months but after driving a short distance today, the car was smoking pretty bad from underneath the oil cap.
Car has 97,000 miles on it. Last week, the oil pressure light went on. Checked the oil and it was dry - just had the oil changed 2,500 miles ago. Have not had any leaks, nothing pooling on the garage floor. I am guessing the oil is burning through the turbo, but don't know for sure. I put 3 qts of oil in it and have been checking every other day, and have not seen any oil loss as of yet.
This is the second time this has happened. The first time happened when it was overdue for an oil change. Now it seems to be a bigger issue.
I don't believe there is any damage to the engine, but do not know for sure. Not sure what else could be the problem.
If it is my turbo, how much will it cost to fix?
changed trans. control module was told to replace this module but dont know where it it is located....leaky sunroof repaired...want my windows back none of them work except sunroof
does any body know what this stand for EPC
It was playing up a little when using the key but button was working , the remote on key has not worked since I got it
ZIP CODE 53081 THE TAIL LIGHTS STILL GO ON
100K Had an engine light and the oil looked bad. The oil pan was dropped and cleaned. Mechanic said it did not look that bad. If it runs good and oil looks good in 5k we'll do timing belt and water pump. After 4 months and 2K miles car was running fine and oil looked good. So he replaced water pump and timing belt at 102K. Within 1 week it overheated. It was while air conditioning running in stop and go traffic. In a 2- 3 mile area. In 3 visits to the mechanic who did this work as a possible solution: 1) Flushed radiator ; replaced the cluth fan 2) replaced the other fan 3) replaced thermastat. I no longer turn on the air but if the car is run on the interstate at high speed for any real length of time (30-45 minutes) it will start over heating. I turn the heater on and it sucks out the heat long enough to get home. I live and work and do 90% of my travel in a 10 mile radius.
The car sounds and drives great all the other time. I have only 105K on this 2001.But some times you have to drive 70 for about 45 minutes. Do I give up and trade it in. I only put 4-5K miles a year at tops. Take it to the dealer since this tech has not figured it out.
i recently did my oil change and my check coolant light keeps going on, what can it be. i add more coolant but it keeps going on
My 2001 Passat has 126,000 miles on it. I currently only drive it about 5,000 miles per year, 90% of that on the highway. It sits all week in a garage and then I drive it on the weekends.
I use Mobil 1 European 0W-40 and a Mobil 1 filter. How long can I safely go between oil changes?
Car was bought in 2010 74K and in fall changed right cat after code P2096 came on. Spring of 2011, changed left side after cat code P2098. Replaced cats and install 4 new o/e sensors. P 2098 keeps coming on. VW dealership are stumped and local VW mechanics says vacuum leak but cannot locate? MIL comes on 71 miles, then 425 miles, then 120 miles. Need intelligent answer, I love this car!!!!!!!
The faster I go and then slow down, the louder the rattle noise will get. I have been told to stop driving the car, but no one has been able to tell me what should be replaced/ fixed. Here are the codes that I received from Pep Boys: P0430- catalyst bank 2, P0420- catalyst bank 1, P0300 Random miss, P0306, 6 miss P0305, 5 miss, P0154 O2 circuit, no activity B2s1, P0174 Bank2 too lean, P0304, 4 misfire, P0051 Heather control circuit low, B2s1---Also, they did not have the tools to check the timing belt and my Uncle (VW owner of 25 years)states that I should replace the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat-- before any mechanic has actually been able to look at the the timing belt. Any help would be AwEsOmE.
I have coolant fluid spraying out of the side of the engine. I am wondering where the coolant parts are located, everything is too tightly packe together to get a good look, if i could get a picture with this answer it would be great. and if you have any advice for me,feel free to talk. PLEASE HELP. i have to get this car on the road asap. thanks
Scanned with VAG it said something to do with seat belt.
what could I do now to fix?
the only way to keep it on is by stepping on the gas.... i scan it and the code i get back is p1545.... not sure what to do?
the camshaft got hooked and thereby affected the valves and the timing chain needed replacement
DTC's P2096; P0139-02; P0137-02.
car is iddling very low n its shuttin off
i pull the hood release and that pops then go to pull plastic lever and nothing cant get the hood open
now check engine light is on and stays on
Some one told me it might just be the oil filter and a sensor. The oil does need changed. Nothing is leaking, smoking or smells like it is burning. Can I drive it to get the oil changed. I just want to know if I can drive it to get the oil changed and see if that is all the problem is. I can't afford to get it towed for something this simple. This is the first and only time it has happened. I keep a close eye on oil level, never uses much oil at all.
I removed the hose adjusted the valve open more and the enginge light went away is this going to be ok for fuel milage and operation
The dealer has said two need to be replaced, and it will cost a total of $750. Just got done replacing the heater core.
Repair pal screen says yes, but my dealer service advisor says no. He claims it is direct flow to the heater core, and there is no heater control valve.
My car is using oil and there are no signs of external leaks. The dealer replaced the egr valve but it didn't fix the problem. In 4 months it had almost no oil in it. What is causing this? When you have the car running and remove the dip stick or oil cap, it idles rough. Is that normal?