Volkswagen Passat QuestionsRefine by vehicle
does any body know what this stand for EPC
It was playing up a little when using the key but button was working , the remote on key has not worked since I got it
ZIP CODE 53081 THE TAIL LIGHTS STILL GO ON
100K Had an engine light and the oil looked bad. The oil pan was dropped and cleaned. Mechanic said it did not look that bad. If it runs good and oil looks good in 5k we'll do timing belt and water pump. After 4 months and 2K miles car was running fine and oil looked good. So he replaced water pump and timing belt at 102K. Within 1 week it overheated. It was while air conditioning running in stop and go traffic. In a 2- 3 mile area. In 3 visits to the mechanic who did this work as a possible solution: 1) Flushed radiator ; replaced the cluth fan 2) replaced the other fan 3) replaced thermastat. I no longer turn on the air but if the car is run on the interstate at high speed for any real length of time (30-45 minutes) it will start over heating. I turn the heater on and it sucks out the heat long enough to get home. I live and work and do 90% of my travel in a 10 mile radius.
The car sounds and drives great all the other time. I have only 105K on this 2001.But some times you have to drive 70 for about 45 minutes. Do I give up and trade it in. I only put 4-5K miles a year at tops. Take it to the dealer since this tech has not figured it out.
i recently did my oil change and my check coolant light keeps going on, what can it be. i add more coolant but it keeps going on
My 2001 Passat has 126,000 miles on it. I currently only drive it about 5,000 miles per year, 90% of that on the highway. It sits all week in a garage and then I drive it on the weekends.
I use Mobil 1 European 0W-40 and a Mobil 1 filter. How long can I safely go between oil changes?
Car was bought in 2010 74K and in fall changed right cat after code P2096 came on. Spring of 2011, changed left side after cat code P2098. Replaced cats and install 4 new o/e sensors. P 2098 keeps coming on. VW dealership are stumped and local VW mechanics says vacuum leak but cannot locate? MIL comes on 71 miles, then 425 miles, then 120 miles. Need intelligent answer, I love this car!!!!!!!
The faster I go and then slow down, the louder the rattle noise will get. I have been told to stop driving the car, but no one has been able to tell me what should be replaced/ fixed. Here are the codes that I received from Pep Boys: P0430- catalyst bank 2, P0420- catalyst bank 1, P0300 Random miss, P0306, 6 miss P0305, 5 miss, P0154 O2 circuit, no activity B2s1, P0174 Bank2 too lean, P0304, 4 misfire, P0051 Heather control circuit low, B2s1---Also, they did not have the tools to check the timing belt and my Uncle (VW owner of 25 years)states that I should replace the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat-- before any mechanic has actually been able to look at the the timing belt. Any help would be AwEsOmE.
I have coolant fluid spraying out of the side of the engine. I am wondering where the coolant parts are located, everything is too tightly packe together to get a good look, if i could get a picture with this answer it would be great. and if you have any advice for me,feel free to talk. PLEASE HELP. i have to get this car on the road asap. thanks
Scanned with VAG it said something to do with seat belt.
what could I do now to fix?
the only way to keep it on is by stepping on the gas.... i scan it and the code i get back is p1545.... not sure what to do?
the camshaft got hooked and thereby affected the valves and the timing chain needed replacement
DTC's P2096; P0139-02; P0137-02.
car is iddling very low n its shuttin off
i pull the hood release and that pops then go to pull plastic lever and nothing cant get the hood open
now check engine light is on and stays on
Some one told me it might just be the oil filter and a sensor. The oil does need changed. Nothing is leaking, smoking or smells like it is burning. Can I drive it to get the oil changed. I just want to know if I can drive it to get the oil changed and see if that is all the problem is. I can't afford to get it towed for something this simple. This is the first and only time it has happened. I keep a close eye on oil level, never uses much oil at all.
I removed the hose adjusted the valve open more and the enginge light went away is this going to be ok for fuel milage and operation
The dealer has said two need to be replaced, and it will cost a total of $750. Just got done replacing the heater core.
Repair pal screen says yes, but my dealer service advisor says no. He claims it is direct flow to the heater core, and there is no heater control valve.
My car is using oil and there are no signs of external leaks. The dealer replaced the egr valve but it didn't fix the problem. In 4 months it had almost no oil in it. What is causing this? When you have the car running and remove the dip stick or oil cap, it idles rough. Is that normal?
new thermostat,water pump.
We added brake fluid but it does not seem to be getting into the actual Reservoir tank. We poured it into the top but it does not go down into the Reservoir tank, it just sits in the spout where you fill it
The power was out in this car for a long time. I have that light on my dash plus an airbag light. Everything else has corrected itself less those two lights and no power to the steering. I assume it is a module, but which one and where is it? Any suggestions are welcome.
tHE LIGHT COMES ON AND SAYS i HAVE LOW OIL PRESSURE, The OIl was very recenely changed andis clean. Does anyone know what might cause this or how to fix it.
it is a 2.8 V6 so the whole front end has to removed to get to the alternator. so since the car is at 83,000, should i go ahead and have them replace the timing belt/water pump since they are already in there.
for standard mountain time
2002 Passat GLS 1.8T Sedan - $61k miles
Reason for Check Engine Light (#1, 2, 3)
#1 Diagnostic Procedure 5052 - Bank 1, Sensor #2 internal resistance too high
- Replace O2 Sensor #2 =$199 parts + $200 labor = $400 plus tax
#2 System too lean - all vacuum hoses are broke $24 parts + $200 Labor = $224 + Tax
#3 Also Misfire in cylinder #3 and #4 - spark plugs are wasted $18x4= $72 parts + $100 Labor = $172 + Tax
#4 Coolant bottle is completely dirty, needs a new bottle and a flush - $290
#5 40k Tune Up = $750 (which is odd because I'm at $61k)
This is the first and only time it has happened>
this is the only time it has done it