Volkswagen Passat Questions

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any quick fix for this? 1.8 litre turbo?

After the oil pan was fixed car runs fine about a week later i noticed some whitish smoke comimg from exhaust when accelerating to get on highway. All the fluids are good, no overheating no power loss. Its not the head gasket i know thats the most common with white smoke. any other ideas on what could of happened from breaking the oil pan maybe? someone did follow me and said the smoke smelled like raw fuel maybe plugged injector but wouldnt the car run bad?

I can see compressor running but scanner shows engine temp and when car gets 160 degrees air gets cold this is every time to start out in morning. Any ideas anyone

Recently had my 2003 Passat V6 serviced for oil loss and hot oil/burning smell after driving by a reputable local shop. They changed the water pump and tensioners and etc. When I picked up vehicle from that service, the heater temperature control did not work and they had to "burp" the cooling system. Now I've had to add amost a gallon of the Dexcool coolant over the past 4500 miles. No external signs of coolant leaks or no evidence of coolant in the crankcase. Reputable service shop nows says there may be a leaking headgasket that will require 2 days of labor to see if there is coolant leaking into cylinders. Anyone have similar issues?

Car has 90,000 miles and I'm original owner. Serviced every 5,000 miles since new and never had an issue with coolant loss even though it has been changed/flushed at recommened intervals up to now.

replaced the ccm and headlight switch

Goes slow and the check engine on saying that it temp control module sensor

I had the car scanned a week ago and they reset the code and it came back. I looked it up on google and sounds like the intake manifold sensor.

The car is starting ti stutter when I start it up. It is starting to happen more frequently.

kept finding oil on the ground and put in shop at dealer ship this occured after having timing belt replaced



The code was thrown again after I replaced the cat, both o2 sensors, plugs and wires. I have checked the SAIP and EGR valves. They all work.

I compared the o2 test readings between bank 1 and bank 2 for all four sensors. They are virtually identical. Difference of .1 volt.

When I changed the plugs, the plugs on bank2 where uniformly lighter than the plugs on bank one, which were uniformly browner.

Any ideas?

how do i fitt a cylinder head

everytime you accelerate over 50mph the car starts to wobble and when you accelaerate over 50mph you feel the vibration in the accelaration pedal

My brake lights stays on and my brakes won't come completely up. I have to place something under the brakes just to make sure my lights turn off when I turn off the car when I have arrived to my destination. What can it be.? N thanks for our help

Please give me all prices.

How many miles can I expect to get when they are repalced?

I had both replaced along with the timing belt 2008 and just recently replaced again both were replaced. how long should they lasts is the question?

I had the waterpump and timing belt done in 2008 at 108,000miles and just recently had to get it done at 135,000 is this normal?

know how hard to replace and the approximate cost to do so
preferrably in the area of jacksonville nc. I know the part cost about $145.00 but what cost for labor are we looking at urgent response needed please.

turn the key and sounds like it wants to start, any ideas or suggestions?

thought i would change oil still whitesmoke changed oil due to oil pressure light warning whats next

oil leak damaged 4 ignition coils (?), replaced too. is that where the oil is going now and will eventually be leaking visibly again?

We are planning on buying a new car within the month. We would like to get this repair done as inexpensively as possible, perhaps with a rebuilt alternator.

I rounded the star head bolt and now I can't get it out.

Thank you

Ok so I bought my car about 4 months ago, it works great but the ac hardly works. So i figured id need to get it recharged, so im wondering how much would it cost to do so? is it hard to do it myself or is it better to have someone do it for me? what price range am i looking at here?

I can turn it on and drive it, just can't remove it. Tried park, neutral, the wheel, the brake etc. The diagnostic doesn't recognize the problem.

This happen often after i have driven for a while or say when the engine is hot. If you engage it to eithe drive or reverse, you will hear a heavy jack/noise either moving back or forward pending which gear you choose either reverse or drive. It doesn't do this early in the morning or when the car has cooled down. I equally notice vibration from the car when my spped gets to say 110, and on passing to above 110 (say 120 upwards) the vibration ease. Am suspecting this issues to come from the gear system. I bought the car from a friend with Odo 59,200 and presently is just only at odo 59,846.

I have read to "pry off' handle but it seems very easy to scrach or damage - I just want access to pop out a door indentation / damage. Thanks!

There are no check engine lights or error codes. I have noticed a burning smell for the last few months but after driving a short distance today, the car was smoking pretty bad from underneath the oil cap.

Car has 97,000 miles on it. Last week, the oil pressure light went on. Checked the oil and it was dry - just had the oil changed 2,500 miles ago. Have not had any leaks, nothing pooling on the garage floor. I am guessing the oil is burning through the turbo, but don't know for sure. I put 3 qts of oil in it and have been checking every other day, and have not seen any oil loss as of yet.

This is the second time this has happened. The first time happened when it was overdue for an oil change. Now it seems to be a bigger issue.

I don't believe there is any damage to the engine, but do not know for sure. Not sure what else could be the problem.

If it is my turbo, how much will it cost to fix?