154
questions

The fluid is good and is full and also the tranny was rebuilt about 3 months ago.

I just broke 100k on my 09 gti. It has the newer tsi engine and the dsg transmission. I drive roughly 50k miles a year and am wondering on the reliability of my car, any maintenence, and any components I should just fix now before they totally malfunction and become bigger problems. Thanks!

PLEASE NOTE: I am completely ignorant on mechanics. I am mainly looking for suggestions on what I can have my mechanic check. I replaced the turbo sensor about a month ago, and yesterday as I was driving up a hill, the car lagged and would not downshift to increase speed. I don't know what to have my mechanic check- he had recently mentioned a lose hose that pops off and messes up the turbo.

I had been experiencing random jerks for a few months, but chalked it up to 'normal' turbo-induced behavior. It turns out that some hose was lose and would disconnect, which messed with the turbo- accounting for the jerky shifting and boost lag. Also, the check engine light would come on when it disconnected- like every few weeks. To pass safety & emissions, I had to get the engine light off, so had the mechanic replace the hose. Light was still on, so he looked into it further and said we needed to replace the turbo sensor (again- if this is the wrong term, replace it with the correct one...) so we paid to have it replaced. Engine light shut off for about 2 months, then turned on again. That was a few weeks before the uphill lag mentioned above.

--What is this hose that is slipping off, and how do I fix it?

--Obviously, replacing the sensor didn't fix the lag issue- so what else could it be? (the issue being that upshifting it jerky, with a small lag- then recently exhibited the same issue while attempting to downshift while going up a hill.)

--Keep in mind that I have babied this car; I have driven a lot of miles (it has around 120K), but I am hyper-vigilant about regular services and oil changes, tire rotation and replacement, etc.

Please provide answers in very simple terms, or an explanation that a small child could understand. Thanks!

I had a tail light out when I checked the light bulb it was good unplugged the connector an plugged it back in the light worked but the interior lights, side mirrors, alarm system, Windows, and Sun roof stopped working. all fuses are good. Any help would be greatly appreciated

If I let off the gas a lot goes away nd if I put it in neutral it's almost all gone please help change almost everything driving me nuts!!!!!!!!!

thank you it has 152000 miles

When I opened my door after a snow storm a little snow fell on door controls and seat controls, could this be what is making it move on it's own?

Volkswagen GT TSI 1.4 MKV 2007 model ( Please let me know which part need to be replaced or repairs to be done)
Confirmed Trouble Codes
-P2015: Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1) (Powertrain, Generic)

Pending Trouble Codes
-P2015: Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1) (Powertrain, Generic)
Permanent Trouble Codes
-none

Freeze Frame
-P2015: Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1) (Powertrain, Generic)
-Fuel system status: Fuel system 1: Open loop (2)
-Fuel system status: Fuel system 2: NA
-Calculated engine load: 16.5 %
-Engine Coolant Temperature: 67 °C
-Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: 0.0 %
-Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1: 10.2 %
-Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 37.0 kPa
-Engine RPM: 952 RPM
-Vehicle Speed Sensor: 12 km/h
-Ignition Timing Advance for #1 Cylinder: 6.0
-Intake Air Temperature: 39 °C
-Absolute Throttle Position: 15.3 %
-Time Since Engine Start: 116 s
-Fuel Rail Pressure: 5530 kPa
-Commanded Evaporative Purge: 3.9 %
-Barometric Pressure: 83 kPa
-Control module voltage: 13.88 V
-Absolute Load Value: 26.7 %
-Fuel/Air Commanded Equivalence Ratio: 1.259
-Relative Throttle Position: 5.5 %
-Ambient Air Temperature: 27 °C
-Absolute Throttle Position B: 15.3 %
-Accelerator Pedal Position D: 14.9 %
-Accelerator Pedal Position E: 7.5 %
-Commanded Throttle Actuator Control: 7.1 %
-Long Term Secondary O2 Sensor Fuel Trim - Bank 1: 0.8 %

Diagnostic information provided by OBD Auto Doctor

just was driving 55 mph and it just came on. outside temp was 28. Can I still drive my car?
how do I get the code???

forcing the switch it seems to workor just holding it in the first position also works

I barely get acceleration anymore. If i press on the gas too hard it blows completely for days. Eventually it begins to work again but not well. We still owe alot on it and can't trade it in .It's totally broken down now, anyone know any cheap repair shops for gti's?

Hum and vibration from 30 mph up was told cv axel joint now told definitely bearing going Whats the good bearing r&r price

Last week the check engine light came on for about 3 days and turned off. I contacted the dealer and they said probably gas cap. Then now the EPC light is coming on and the car starts and drives, but it sort of feels off. Is this something I can fix, such as a fuse, or is this something for the dealer to fix? Is it anything major? The car is at 194k if that helps. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated!!

My car has a bad misfire and is running like junk any suggestions

replaced mass air sensor still have same problem

say the transmission will go anytime, is that true

sensor -G40:
signal outside specification.
car type VW touran, tsi 1.4cc

Local mechanic diagnosed vehicle as having a " computer " problem. He got an engine code reading cbfa ? Says the computer is sending 5 amp electrical impulses continuously and the computer needs to be replaced .

car has 36 thousand miles and ran and shifted like new before this. I drove very slow in first gear thru water.

this happened very suddenly, just got in the car after I had my starter replaced and its up there! very annoying when driving,

Had to replace both wheel hubs! I have less than 40,000

So while driving after an hour the tranny seems to go into standby mode? Drives completely fine.. Drive on the freeway and take an exit, downshifts and then won't shift after that til the tranny cools down. Bout 30 minutes later car drives just fine til I've been driving awhile and does the same thing once I slow down. Been in 3 different shops and they can't figure it out. Was told to get a new tranny but would the tranny be blown if I can still drive it?! Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

I've replaced ABS pump & all sensor to try sort this problem, a mechanic thinks the previous person who replaced the wheel bearing might have damaged where the sensor senses on the wheel hub or replaced it with a non ABS wheel hub, when I brake other 3 wheels continue braking at right pressure but the front right wheel brakes at higher pressure n ends up locking if more force is added on the pedal... The pedal gets electrically locked when this happens n as soon as the speed becomes lower the pedal loosens. I've spent a lot & I'm still having problems that is why I would like to get further info before I replace the bearing with hub as suggested by the mechanic