Volkswagen EuroVan QuestionsRefine by vehicle
The driver side exterior door handle stopped opening the door from the outside. The inside still worked fine. Shortly after (few weeks) it stopped working on the inside and the locks all engaged. When I try to open the door with the remote key thing, I have to open the car door within seconds or it locks again. I am unable to lift the locks by hand on either side but am able to unlock the sliding door. This all happens whether I am inside the car or outside of the car. So, it is locking me in and it is locking me out!
Fuses are fine.
should I be looking at fuel pressure? pump? any other modules?
about a month ago. the can does not come on all the time, and it will flash and beep the go off and maybe not come on for another 10-15 minutes
the oil light comes on when the engine is running ok
This eurovan has automatic trans. all systems seem to work ok. when first started. starts easy, idles fast for couple minutes, the drives normal. after driving for least 20 min, it may or may not stall when stopped, at this point it will turn over well, but not restart. been towed twice, starts easy after sitting for a couple hours or overnight. no check eng. lite, dont think it has one. Done major tune up, new battery, o2 sensor and catalytic converter. where should I be looking for problem? Im starting to think the ecu or idle control valve.
I removed the battery and the top cover of the ECU. I tried to pull off the plug unit but didn't want to force it. I need to get to the contact points and wires that exit the ECU. The former mechanic said that there was 12 volts entering the ECU but only 6-7 volts leaving it which caused my engine missing issues.
Engine missing, a former mechanic solved the problem by cleaning the wires and terminals.
It takes forever to fill it up! Any ideas on a cause/fix? The engine light stays on and say it is an "evap" problem
Won't start, batter is good, starter is good. Plan to replace PNP relay, if that isn't the problem I was going to test the neutral safety switch but I don't know where it is.
Long running problems with severe loss of power, esp going up hill. We had several cylinders misfiring, so have just replaced all the ignition wires and the coil pack, which we thought would be the answer. Things have improved slightly but we still lose power going uphill once the car has warmed up. Sometimes it feels like it is jolting into gear. Once power is slipping away it is impossible to get many revs. Also, it is erratic when starting up in the morning, sometimes it cuts out a few times first.
After replacing the wires and coil pack, we immediately got these codes on our ODBII scanner, for the first time - 17952 (P1544); 16505 (P0121); 00518 (P0121), which are all related to the throttle. We are confused as to why the current symptoms are similar - altho not as severe - as the symptoms we had before replacing the wires and coil pack, and yet we had not had these throttle codes on the scanner before. We are driving the van in Latin America, so it is not easy to get parts, nor to find mechanics who know anything about this model of VW. any tips hugely appreciated. thanks
Water pump appear to be leaking.( See antifreeze on the ground under water pump side of engine) Also, do I need to remove the timing belt in order to replace the water pump?
I want to replace the air filter and need to pull the air flow sensor.
it,s a 2.5l, 1994 eurovan.
The ABS light is on, and a local shop told me the ABS pump needs replacing. I was quoted about $1200 for the total cost.
brakes apply when turbo fan comes on, going uphill, engine hot. ok going downhill.
They want to pull the heads and clean it. This process is very expensive. We only have 50,000 miles and have taken very good care of this van. What would you recommend we do?
Thank you for any help you can provide. We have spend over $2,000 so far with our mechanic trying to fix this problem The engine light came on and that is who we were aware of this problem.
I meant to say that the mechanic told me the tranmission differential had gone bad and so pieces of metal shavings were floating around in transmission fluid. Said it needs a new transmission (to the tune of $6,500!!!) Any ideas?
A mechanic has said there ahas gone bad in my Eurovan 2003. Says it needs a new transmission (very expensive), but should this be true? Another mechanic said the transmission mount was broken? Don't know who to believe? The problem is when I begin driving or start up from a stop sign or wherever, I hear a kind of grinding, rough noise that bothers me.
The left signals work. The rights dont. I have checked the right rear bulb. I cant figure out how to get to the back of the front right fixture to check that bulb. How do I get there from here? and is it possibly something else?
With headlights off, eurovan temp gauge gets a false overtemp.
turn headlights on, while rotating dimmer wheel down then up, tachometer operation is directly affected. (dimmer wheel down,tach. works, dimmer wheel up,tach. does not works).
Also dimmer wheel down,get a false overtemp with red blinking overtemp light,dimmer wheel up,temp. gauge creeps back to normal range but tach. drops to zero. correlation of tach. movement is directly affected by dimmer wheel movement.
also, when headlights are on, there is dash area illumination except for all instrument cluster gauges.
I have so far replaced temp sensor, inoperative horns, contact cleaned all fuse/relay plugs. Help please.
It sounds like the fan is on high speed too.I disconnected the thermo switch in the radiator no change.
This problem seems to be random. When in reverse, taking foot of brake will sometimes make it go foreword. When in drive taking foot of brake will sometimes make it go backward. Especially when on a slight slanted grade. Sometimes pushing gas and van doesn't want to move. After a hesitation will serge foreword, or backward, depending on gear. Just had the main computer chip or board replaced. Sorry I don't know the name of it. I was told this controlled almost everything in van and was the problem, but it hasn't fixed it. Has anyone else experienced this? I don't know if this is relevant or not, but I have used this van to tow a trailer that is 3200 lbs empty. So, it is probably close to 4200 lbs when I tow it.
Looks like a solid state driver because with the vent valve electrical connection disconnected I originally could read a +3.5 bias voltage which looks like a base to collector voltage without an emmiter groung return indicating a faulty transistor. Is the control driver internal or external to the ECU?
Oil pan full of carbonized sludge, chain loose, gear worn, oil pump needed replacing, results in a $7,000 bill. Can't you get a whole new motor for that amount. Done at San Juan Capistrano dealership in California.. I am original owner, never overheated motor that I know of, drove only 10,000 miles per year mostly town. please respond to firstname.lastname@example.org I will sign up.
i have problems with lights
drivers side electric window do not go up or down passangers side works i chage switch it works for a week and it broke again thanks for the help.
can someone direct me to some instructions on how to change the ect myself?