Volkswagen EuroVan Questions
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Check engine light goes on after 20 miles =/- and I am getting 13 mpg in my 1994 eurovan. I can't find anyone who has an OBD1 scanner to dignose which sensor needs to be replaced. Help??
Some time is running a little longer then 2 minutes but is running bad. have 150,000 miles OBD- code p0011 is about the Timing Valve control solenoid I woul like to know the location in the pas I change one from a 2004-trailblazer 4.2 that was very easy there is another code about the transmission p0740 I don't care about this code I need to fix the engine firs, to keep it running longer I have to raise it to 1500 to 2000 rpt and then idle with a mish.
any way hope find help also where to buy the part.
Ray or dinoray
We have changed the wires and spark plugs along with a new air filter, fuel filter and fuel pump(in the tank) better but still being somewhat problematic. its not setting any codes.
I'm pretty sure my sweet 03 Eurovan needs a new transmission and I think it's a tricky job to get right so I want a place with some experience with this vehicle to do the job. Can you recommend the best/most experienced shop in the west?
I'm in Marin County, and I have "warrantee" that might cover some/most of the costs in a certified shop.
Can you advise and thanks much,
Cold or hot, I'll crank the starter for up to 10 seconds, but it doesn't start. Then when I retry it starts immediately???
It goes off after stopping and restarting. The light is a steady amber. What repairs are necessary?
Reverse works fine, van will sometimes shift, sometimes not. When it is shifting it is very erratic and shifts up and down with no change in pedal pressure. Sometimes only stays in first or second rarely going to third even at high rpm's. Any tips on possible electrical solutions would be helpful. Thanks
The driver side exterior door handle stopped opening the door from the outside. The inside still worked fine. Shortly after (few weeks) it stopped working on the inside and the locks all engaged. When I try to open the door with the remote key thing, I have to open the car door within seconds or it locks again. I am unable to lift the locks by hand on either side but am able to unlock the sliding door. This all happens whether I am inside the car or outside of the car. So, it is locking me in and it is locking me out!
Fuses are fine.
should I be looking at fuel pressure? pump? any other modules?
about a month ago. the can does not come on all the time, and it will flash and beep the go off and maybe not come on for another 10-15 minutes
the oil light comes on when the engine is running ok
This eurovan has automatic trans. all systems seem to work ok. when first started. starts easy, idles fast for couple minutes, the drives normal. after driving for least 20 min, it may or may not stall when stopped, at this point it will turn over well, but not restart. been towed twice, starts easy after sitting for a couple hours or overnight. no check eng. lite, dont think it has one. Done major tune up, new battery, o2 sensor and catalytic converter. where should I be looking for problem? Im starting to think the ecu or idle control valve.
I removed the battery and the top cover of the ECU. I tried to pull off the plug unit but didn't want to force it. I need to get to the contact points and wires that exit the ECU. The former mechanic said that there was 12 volts entering the ECU but only 6-7 volts leaving it which caused my engine missing issues.
Engine missing, a former mechanic solved the problem by cleaning the wires and terminals.
It takes forever to fill it up! Any ideas on a cause/fix? The engine light stays on and say it is an "evap" problem
Won't start, batter is good, starter is good. Plan to replace PNP relay, if that isn't the problem I was going to test the neutral safety switch but I don't know where it is.
Long running problems with severe loss of power, esp going up hill. We had several cylinders misfiring, so have just replaced all the ignition wires and the coil pack, which we thought would be the answer. Things have improved slightly but we still lose power going uphill once the car has warmed up. Sometimes it feels like it is jolting into gear. Once power is slipping away it is impossible to get many revs. Also, it is erratic when starting up in the morning, sometimes it cuts out a few times first.
After replacing the wires and coil pack, we immediately got these codes on our ODBII scanner, for the first time - 17952 (P1544); 16505 (P0121); 00518 (P0121), which are all related to the throttle. We are confused as to why the current symptoms are similar - altho not as severe - as the symptoms we had before replacing the wires and coil pack, and yet we had not had these throttle codes on the scanner before. We are driving the van in Latin America, so it is not easy to get parts, nor to find mechanics who know anything about this model of VW. any tips hugely appreciated. thanks
Water pump appear to be leaking.( See antifreeze on the ground under water pump side of engine) Also, do I need to remove the timing belt in order to replace the water pump?
I want to replace the air filter and need to pull the air flow sensor.
it,s a 2.5l, 1994 eurovan.
The ABS light is on, and a local shop told me the ABS pump needs replacing. I was quoted about $1200 for the total cost.
brakes apply when turbo fan comes on, going uphill, engine hot. ok going downhill.
They want to pull the heads and clean it. This process is very expensive. We only have 50,000 miles and have taken very good care of this van. What would you recommend we do?
Thank you for any help you can provide. We have spend over $2,000 so far with our mechanic trying to fix this problem The engine light came on and that is who we were aware of this problem.
I meant to say that the mechanic told me the tranmission differential had gone bad and so pieces of metal shavings were floating around in transmission fluid. Said it needs a new transmission (to the tune of $6,500!!!) Any ideas?
A mechanic has said there ahas gone bad in my Eurovan 2003. Says it needs a new transmission (very expensive), but should this be true? Another mechanic said the transmission mount was broken? Don't know who to believe? The problem is when I begin driving or start up from a stop sign or wherever, I hear a kind of grinding, rough noise that bothers me.
The left signals work. The rights dont. I have checked the right rear bulb. I cant figure out how to get to the back of the front right fixture to check that bulb. How do I get there from here? and is it possibly something else?
With headlights off, eurovan temp gauge gets a false overtemp.
turn headlights on, while rotating dimmer wheel down then up, tachometer operation is directly affected. (dimmer wheel down,tach. works, dimmer wheel up,tach. does not works).
Also dimmer wheel down,get a false overtemp with red blinking overtemp light,dimmer wheel up,temp. gauge creeps back to normal range but tach. drops to zero. correlation of tach. movement is directly affected by dimmer wheel movement.
also, when headlights are on, there is dash area illumination except for all instrument cluster gauges.
I have so far replaced temp sensor, inoperative horns, contact cleaned all fuse/relay plugs. Help please.