Toyota Tundra QuestionsRefine by vehicle
There three clips on the front part of the panel that covers the blower motor how do i release these three clips to remove this panel.
Just quit, throttle doesn't respond to the pedal pressure. It reved up a couple of times.
Have replaced Crank Shaft Sensor and Cam Sensor and still idling low. Diagnostic says Cam Sensor still and light will not go off. Truck has 130,000 miles.
I have a 2007 toyota tundra with about 175k on it and have had no problems until recently i put 35 inch tires on the back and immediatly it started acting funny, I Accelerated out of the tire shop and it shifted fine until about a mile down the road and the traction control started blinking and it would accelerate, it would rev up but would only start accelerating after i let it get around 1000 Rpm, and also when it does that if i put it on faction control it will immediately snap out of it and maintain speed
My tundra was running great and I started it up and the vsc light came on the same time the ck. engine lite came on and the 4 lo light is on but will not go in lo or high 4x4 and I can not go over 40mph. Any help . I have 60.000 on it .
HAVE TAKEN APART TOP/BOTTOM E.BOX AND CAN TURN TOP SIDEWAYS BUT CANNOT FIND RELEASE OR WHATEVER TO GET GET AT NUTS TO RELEASE THE 140 AMP FUSE. PLEASE, HELP! T.Y. VERY MUCH.
The Toyota local dealer (44663) has no clue what is wrong. They replaced the air pump and it still codes a 171p on the first warm-up (5 miles) and p171 and 174p the next warm-up cycle (from cold). It has gone from 16mpg to 11, but reads lean both banks. I replaced the MAF sensor and 1A Auto even sent me the 2nd one free, then refunded my money. Same problem. I am now waiting for a new PCV valve as it barely closes. It sounds a bit better after cleaning the PCV and appears to have picked up a mpg or 2. I was a line mechanic a long time ago and only have a hand-held OBD tool and my wits to figure this out. I am now finding the term "service tech" troubling as the dealer's main Toyota guy told me he couldn't do anything until it throws a different code. Any help is greatly appreciated.
We noticed they came on the first time after a brake job. they came on again yesterday and it cause the truck to not run good. we carried it back to the shop that fixed the brakes both times and they reset. it only lasted 24 hours this last time. did the brake job have anything to do with this or is something else just wrong?
Losing power steering
check the fuel pump relay and fuse
61,000 miles, 4x4, auto trans. problem just started recently and is now permanent(will not go off)
my truck changed water pump , head gasket , radiator , replaced fan calutch with electric fans and stil overheating on litle of off road over sands near the beach
Is it just a straight pull with pliars to release what remins of knob and then replacement just pushes on?
Won't even turn over,but after a couple hours its fine again
HeATER DOESN'T WORK TRK IS STUCK IN 4 WHEEL DRIVE HIGH
heater MOTOR control
When turning ignition key to start, truck will start only if I hold key forward. Letting go of key truck turns off. My mechanic has replaced the ignition relay but says he is unable to fix what is killing the ignition relay. Any solutions before I take vehicle into Toyota? What should this repair cost?
info from different web sites and manuals to change the 4whl drive actuator. No help still will not go in 4whl high. Indicator light on panel blinks when pushed to 4whl high,and will go out in 2whl drive as it should. Now is it the actuator assembly on the transfer case or transfer 4wd position switch or transfer L4 position switch. thank you c.throm
I have not been ale to find it and the check engine light stays on until I disconnect the battery
It will sometimes go into 4WD in neutral, but has been very inconsistent.
best results are after first startup in park or neutral. once truck is warm and has been driving, it will not enter 4WD
I was trying to replace a factory bulb with an LED on the drivers side map light socket. I bent the (fragile) bulb connectors in the socket pretty bad. Is this something I can fix myself, perhaps by using precision tweezers and moving the connectors back into place? Or am I going to have to go to a shop or dealer and have the bulb socket or entire map light replaced?
I'm a novice at "auto repair", but have installed my own after-market car stereos, subwoofers, speakers, car alarms, and window regulator w/motor.
I had the thermostat and housing replaced. Now that it's getting cold out, when the temperature gauge reads quarter to half way, I get intermittent heat in the cab. Then all of a sudden it gets warm to hot. I shut the truck off, do my errands, and return, cold air with the gauge at half. Then again warm to hot air maybe five minutes later. Any ideas?