Toyota T100 Questions
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first time ever happened will not unlock with key or unlock from inside door will not open
Here it is. My son has this truck, 1994 Toyota T100. To put it short the clutch was about to bite the dust. It would not hold on a slight incline and power loss.
So we installed a new clutch assembly. The friction disk was about to the top of the rivets.
New pilot bearing
New pressure plate
New clutch disk
All cleaned with brake cleaner and blown dry with compressed air.
Back together and it started, but would not hit a gear and only ground trying reverse.
Shut engine off, it goes through the gears.
The slave cylinder moves the throw out bearing arm about 5/8 an inch or so.
Does anyone have any idea what the heck is going on?
Also now the engine will not even turn over. The dash lights come on, the head lights and what nots, but the starter a no go and it is only about 3 months old. Did we miss something here?
Mitchell repair info.possible causes
1.lock-up solenoid open or short circuit
2.lock=up solenoid malfunction
3. ECT-ECU malfunction
truck has three senors in tranny
part # 85420D (no-1) two of these. part # 85420D (no_2) one of these. both (no-1) read 11.9 ohms,(no-2) reads 235 ohms. what are the correct ohms when working correctly
I have a 96 T100 four wheel drive that still runs well at 135,000 miles, but the frame is dangerously rusted. I took it to the dealer where I bought it at 95,000 miles, and they told me to "prepare it for burial"- literally. I don't know how many others have had similar experiences, but they recalled Tacomas of the same years for the same problem, and I feel they should do the same for the T100! anyone out there have a good T100 with a blown motor?-Tom
just had my power steering hose replaced didnot last an hour and leaks more ,i think either the replacement hose is not metric fittings or the O ring is missing *it was the power steering hose that leak as the steering whell groaned before with the lower oil level. i suspect improper hose replacement or a missing O ring the costa was over 300$ and worse than before
will not go into reverse when running all other gears are not as hard. tryed to adjust rod under dash on clutch cylinder. am almost out of adjustment
it is hard to get into gear. reverse is the hardest. will go into reverse when engine is running.
will not go into reverse.other gears are hard to get into also but reverse is bad.
As I last stated in my original post about this new rig to me I cleared codes and have not come back. What is confusing is that has OBDII connector under dash and also has diag link box for TE1 and E1 ability for code retrieval. Was manufactured in 09/94. Why does it have the OBDII connector under the dash? I did attach my scanner and was able to retrieve codes and clear. Thanks for any info.
we have changed everthing in it and it is still running hot.what else can we check.can the timing belt have something to do with it still running hot
we have changed everything in the truck but it is still running hot what do u recommend us to check.could the timing belt have something to do with it still running hot
Ok guys, I usually answer questions but I am stumped on what I got here. Just bought this truck, manufactured 09/94, says meets Calif. emissions for year 1995 but this has both the E1/TE1 diagnostic code setup under the hood so can count code blips and also has OBDII diag link under the dash. Has CEL on but runs fine. Was able to pull two codes, P0420 and P0510 for oxygen sensor prob and TPS prob, I attached my scanner and retrieved them and then cleared and will drive to see if come back. I recently fixed broken crossover pipe between EGR housing and back of exhaust manifold. This truck starts right up, idles high till goes into closed loop, runs fine with no misses and no power problems. What do I have here? If the codes come back I will do diag and report back. Thanks in advance. Always owned Chevy's and Harley's so not used to working on it as I have ran shops for years and haven't done much wrenching except at home.
About 2 weeks ago I took my 95 Toyota T-100 into a local Toyota dealer for an oil leak in the valve cover gaskets. They cleaned the whole top end of the engine (intake manifold removed and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner, and used some kind of degreaser and high pressure pressure washer to clean all other top end components, front, sides, back, and bottom of engine) and had both valve cover gaskets replaced. In the process they blew off my cruise control retaining ring (my first clue, but an easy fix). After cleaning, they discovered I also had a rear main seal leak. Both leaks were very minor, but as I fastidiously keep my truck maintained I wanted them both repaired.
$1550 later, and immediately after getting the truck back I discovered a "check engine" light which I checked with my Acctron OBDII computer and it gave me a P0170 code. I had never gotten this indicator before I had any service work done.
It is now two weeks later, and last Friday my transmission would not move in 1st gear. I had to manually put it in L (low) to get it moving, and then shift up manually. Then the O/D light indicator started flashing. I immediately stopped and checked the transmission oil level, and it was dry. It took over a quart to fill it. (and I use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF, so it's not cheap). The O/D light stopped flashing, but the shifting problem remained. I decided to check the OBDII status again, and now I am getting a P0170, P0753, P0758, and a P0773 code. I have tried to look up these codes thoroughly, and they all seem to be electrical in nature... (MAF sensor. and Shift solenoids)
So, my main question is this: Do you believe (as I do) that the High Pressure pressure washing (which they did TWICE by the way) caused these electrical problems to start all showing up at the same time.. just after they did their work. I have used "Engine Brite" degreaser for many years on this engine (the truck is 16 years old with 233,000 miles) and I know better than to use a pressure washer on it. I only use a regular garden hose and my thumb, and I have NEVER had a problem or a check engine light after this maintenance. I would like a professional opinion to take back to the dealer. Thank you.
Also, I have two more codes, P0100 & P0110 I don't know what they are. The guy at the NAPA said one of them is for the EGR valve.
Need you help.
Is the P0305 code mean mis-fire in the #5 cly?
where is knock sensor located
I put my t100 on jack stands, put the manual trans into h4.
back right wheel turns, nothing in the front wheels. I remove the vacuum lines to the front differential, at the differential, and the front wheels now turn. Bad vacuum solenoids or ADD? Where can I buy these parts? I replaced the vacuum lines weeks prior.
Low idle somtimes, rich gas smell from exhaust. I changed the spark plugs, oil change, air filter, new exhaust and tail pipe. Still failed! Check engine light comes on randomly. I have a rich mixture of gas. Is it the oxygen sensor? I have heard it may be the carb adjust or idle ajust. What do you think? Thanks T.Q. P.S. Here is the readings HC at 15 mph 100, HC at 25 mph 332, CO at 15 mph 1.50, CO at 25 1.57 They even failed me for fuel cap integrety! I'm going back to wyoming
What ports on the com. plug under the hood need to be shorted to set the timing correctly.
I have my T-100 running at 1500 RPM's all the time. A friend told me the it may be the throttle position sensor out of adjustment. How I be sure of this?
How many hours to replace the cv joint boots, and much it cost
Can somone tell me wich cycl is the number 1 cycl on a 1997 T100 3.4L V6?
My cigarette lighter well needs to be replaced, does anyone know how to do this? I have the parts I just don't want to start tearing stuff up without knowing a little more about the job
won't shift at low rpms it shifts a little better when hot but still takes high rpms to shift.
the four wheel drive doesn't come on all the time or sometimes not at all and I don't know if it could be the actuator or not.
I have to have four wheel drive to get out of my driveway and when I put it in high or low four the light doesn't come on and it doesn't go into four wheel. After a while the low will come on and be in four but sometimes it seems to take forever. The four high comes on when it wants to and sometimes not at all.
My 4 wheel drive indicator light does not come on when vehicle is in 4 wheel drive
I need four wheel drive to get in and out of my driveway in snow and although I can put the high and low into gear the 4x4 light does not come on or engage most of the time. It will sometimes after a long time.
The problem occurs when I try to use the four wheel drive in the snow when I'm trying to get out of my driveway. It goes into four wheel gear high and low but the light doesn't come on or engage.
Just put a used trans. in my truck. There is a cable on the drivers side of trans. that goes to the throttle body. Is this a kick down cable or line pressure cable? and how do you adjust this cable?