Toyota T100 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I replaced brake booster and everything works except when I drive a few miles then pedal gets hard(the truck stops fine but now brakes are rubbing and getting hot). I pull over and disconnect vacume hose and it releases brakes and I can drive it. When I first start out in morning the pedal has right amount of play before engageing brakes
and breaks worke fine. What could it be? I would appreciate any hepl in this matter. Thank you
I am having a tough time locating a used rear axle for the 1997 T100....was hoping maybe a certain year of Tundra or Tacoma used the same rear axle?? Or a chevy anything?
From what I understand the rear axle is still good, wheel bearings are fine, what replacement parts would be needed???
Truck was making noise everytime step on accelorator
Oil got super duper low because neighborhood garage didn't tighten the filter enough and I didn't check it out until I was under the car changing the crankshaft position sensor.(per the check engine light diagnostic code. The plastic was broken around the bolt holding the sensor in place.
Could the low oil have caused the camshaft to hit the sensor with enough force to break it?
Do I need a new engine? valve job? timing belt is cracked.
120k miles total on truck. I tested the Ignition Control module in a buddy's t-100 so I know that works perfect.
Do I trust a guy that fixes cars or take it to a real mechanic?
Bulbs are ok. wonder if there is a backup light switch? how to locate it?
It feels like someone has hit me from behind or like a slipping. I was told it is 3200.00 to 3400.00 to fix. It occurs more each time I drive it and usually in stop and go driving. The mechanic I took it to couldnt make it act up but he told me not worth it to fix..Is this true? Thank You for your time and knowledge
also the transmission gets stuck in 2nd 3rd and 4th
Relaced plugs,distributor cap,rotor and ignition coil. Ran for a week and died during a big rain storm. What could the problem be?
when i have my headlights on and go to hi beams i lose all lights. i can not find a fuse for hi beams. so is there a fuse or both my hi beams burned out
When it's 70 or warmer I need to push and hold the accelerator pedal about 1/2 way down and then it will start right up . If not it just cranks and cranks. All maintainence including new plugs has been done.
will start after cools down engine is not running hot temp gage normal
It does not happen all the time.
I have already check efi relay and it has power and is good. Checked open relay but have not power to relay. Already checked fuses and they are good. What do I check to find why open relay has no power? Any Ideas?
I've heard it both ways, mostly that they need to be replaced by someone trying to sell me an expensive new set.
My car-nut buddy says they're fine, never need replacing.
But my truck seems to sit a little lower on the driver's side (I'm not THAT heavy, only 175 lbs!) and the suspension seems to squeak sometimes going over the bump into my driveway.
What's the deal?
It had been around 5,000 miles since I had it changed at a shop, and after I put the 5 quarts in that the manual suggested, it read way above full on the dipstick.
My car-repair nut friend thinks I have the wrong dipstick, possibly I got a 4-cyl dipstick for a 6-cyl engine?
But that doesn't explain the missing 2 quarts of oil. The truck isn't burning it, there would be a black cloud following me, and I park every night in my driveway and would spot a leak immediately, but there's none.
I've mistakenly trusted various shops with changing my oil and checking my fluids, but recently noticed a leak in my radiator, so I bought the part and asked a friend to help.
While swapping in the new radiator, my friend disconnected the hose that runs from the transmission to the radiator (I didn't know it did this, I'm not much of a car guy) and he smelled a bit of the fluid that dripped out, around 1/2 cup. He said it smelled bad, burnt.
After the job was done, I started the truck to move it and immediately knew something was wrong. The transmission felt like it was grinding. I shut it off and we checked the fluid level - it didn't register on the dipstick.
We added 3 quarts, and it finally showed on the bottom of the stick, but my friend advised against adding too much, saying it might make a bad problem worse faster.
Now it works, but I can feel it slipping a bit.
Am I totally hosed?
Should I replace the thing or try rebuilding it? Truck has 203,000 miles and I was hoping to keep it a couple more years. Time to replace the entire truck?
I'd rather have a manual transmission, does it make sense to switch now?
I am looking to buy a 98 t100 4x4 187k. All looks good except that when braking quickly, truck pops out of gear. Pops back in when you start back up. Owner said needs a new silenoid. I am a little worried since I do not want to get into a big tranny job. Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated. I plan on taking to dealer to do a prepurchase but want to know if I am just wasting my time?? Thanks!!
i have a 1997 toyota t100 3.4 ltr. 6 cyl.
i recently overheated it causing my head gaskets to blow ,,, i got a friend of mine to take the motor apart . i had my heads completely rebulit from natl cyl, head in tampa
that mechanic said my heads turned out great ,,, but my mechanic who put it all back together either didnt do something right or something else is wrong because now
the cooling system will not except a thermostat we tried 3 different new ones fail safe ones and it still over heated so we took and left the thermostat out ,, it runs cold now but it idols really high,,, there must be some reason why it wont except a thermostat but my friend cant figure it ou t,,, he swears he put it all back together to the T by the book ,, so any suggestions ??? please desperate stressed confused and out of money now ,,,, please help thanks
has been hard to shift 3 to 4 for about 2 weeks
put it in park no indicater light shut it off now it wont start or even crank over
what is the cost of the flyweel.
how many miles is the recomended to replace the timing belt
that light usually went right off after starting what does it mean ? how do i turn it off
my 3400 v6 seems to be getting oil in the coolant, should i look for heed gaskets or possibly cracked or warped heads, it only got into the red on the gauge for a few minutes
first time ever happened will not unlock with key or unlock from inside door will not open
Here it is. My son has this truck, 1994 Toyota T100. To put it short the clutch was about to bite the dust. It would not hold on a slight incline and power loss.
So we installed a new clutch assembly. The friction disk was about to the top of the rivets.
New pilot bearing
New pressure plate
New clutch disk
All cleaned with brake cleaner and blown dry with compressed air.
Back together and it started, but would not hit a gear and only ground trying reverse.
Shut engine off, it goes through the gears.
The slave cylinder moves the throw out bearing arm about 5/8 an inch or so.
Does anyone have any idea what the heck is going on?
Also now the engine will not even turn over. The dash lights come on, the head lights and what nots, but the starter a no go and it is only about 3 months old. Did we miss something here?
Mitchell repair info.possible causes
1.lock-up solenoid open or short circuit
2.lock=up solenoid malfunction
3. ECT-ECU malfunction
truck has three senors in tranny
part # 85420D (no-1) two of these. part # 85420D (no_2) one of these. both (no-1) read 11.9 ohms,(no-2) reads 235 ohms. what are the correct ohms when working correctly
I have a 96 T100 four wheel drive that still runs well at 135,000 miles, but the frame is dangerously rusted. I took it to the dealer where I bought it at 95,000 miles, and they told me to "prepare it for burial"- literally. I don't know how many others have had similar experiences, but they recalled Tacomas of the same years for the same problem, and I feel they should do the same for the T100! anyone out there have a good T100 with a blown motor?-Tom
just had my power steering hose replaced didnot last an hour and leaks more ,i think either the replacement hose is not metric fittings or the O ring is missing *it was the power steering hose that leak as the steering whell groaned before with the lower oil level. i suspect improper hose replacement or a missing O ring the costa was over 300$ and worse than before