Toyota Solara QuestionsRefine by vehicle
it on a 2001 toyota solara 2.2 new map sensor and plug from the dealer i can clear the code but it comes back on. If i let it sit over night the car runs fine the next morning but if i drive alot that day the code will pop on it also gives me a p0420 code sometimes
Push pedal 1/4 inch fine anymore no power
All attempts to reset fails. No power to ignition
If u force the top open am inch or so, don't want to completely break it, when I press the close button it works just fine. Pressing the open button nothing happens, the windows should lower half way and the top should open but nothing triggers, I checked fuses, all seem ok, because it closes I think thee motor is ok, any ideas? Could the switch itself have gone bad? Any ideas are greatly appriciated
it turns over great but its like it wont spark. batter , starter, plugs all good. my car is in pretty great condition and ran wonderfully before replacing the ignition. please give me every absolute possibility that I can check I am about to loose my job over not having my car
had p0105 code map sensor bought a used one reset the light worked for half a day next day bought a new one same thing when the light comes on car surges losses power and shakes if i reset the check engine light workes good for like 2 min SOME ONE HELP ME PLEASE
1 quart every month
When I start the car u car here like a little noise but as soon as I step on the gas it's loud and when the AC is on I don't no what it can be I just got the car and it wasn't making the noise 3days ago!!!
so mechanic keeps trying to fix it.. my car is 183,000 miles is there something i need to replace at this point because of it's age?
Mechanic said that oil was leaking into the coils?? It runs great as long as you have your foot on the gas, but let it idle or coast and it shakes hard- the RPM's shoot down then level back to normal then down again. This has been an ongoing problem- nothing has fixed it yet- it calms down for a while then after a month it goes back to shaking hard. At this point i want to start ruling easy things out myself that i can fix at home. He said something about he hoped the oil did not ruin the coils, but to be honest he couldn't look me in the eye when he spoke to me (possibly from exhaustion it is HOT here in Florida)
but i looked under the hood and i saw a spray pattern that looked like it hit the power brake booster or came from it and im a little confused... wish i could post a picture to show you. but if the seal was leaking oil, this was not an oil spray- it was more like the residue from the antifreeze kinda like when my radiator blew - that kind of lightly greasy residue.. ok i know i went all over the place here. HELP!
After installing starter would not start just made whirring type noise.After moving gear selector a bit it started,was startihg fine after that now does same thing. After having to mess with last night(move shift selector in and out of gear,take key out,just keep playing with it and giving little breaks, not a straight continuos thing)it started after about half an hour. Today it started right up. Have only started once so far. Thanks.
After 2 mechanics, 2 alignments, 2 years no one knows why my car always pulls hard to the right. Recently was told I need struts by Toyota and new tires which are oddly chewed up not evenly worn. (My husbands car is fine so it's not the roads). Anyone have this issue on a '06 Solara (Camry engine).
This work would be about $2500 + and I'm at 191,000. Is it worth it? I do LOVE my car :) I'm afraid new tires will get chewed up again. I've never gotten a straight answer.
My mechanic didn't have the machine for alignments so I went to a tire/alignment specialty store and then the dealer when I didn't like the results.
I finally was about to bring it to my mechanic to troubleshoot when he told me he was selling and retiring. Ahhh!!!!
check engine light came on followed by a dead battery. Sensor replaced and new battery put in (battery was only about 6 months old). Now 1-1/1 months later exact same thing has happened. What could be causing this?
In 2013 I purchased a 2001 solara, with almost 200k miles - CASH - 6k. - i face palm every time i think about it still... ok and not 90 days later! slowly but surly my car is falling apart. --- still not fixed - almost 2 years now with no answers from anyone! and a freaking blinking light!!! ahhhhgh!!!
-Alright, so it all started with the CEL. check the P code - evap purge charcol canister ( an every auto place calls it something different - that was great !! ) so first, I checked all caps under the hood and replaced the gas cap on my car 3!!!! times!!!!!! and its still jsut blinking away at me
Then went to THE SAME CAR DEALER ( face palm ), where i bought the lemon!! looking for my evap purge valve - spoke to 2 parts managers and a technician, no one knew what i was talking about - they didnt even want to help me the first time I called to speak to someont to insure they had what i needed before i drove in my lemon to them to get this stupid e vap canister. Then, no one could find it - had to buy 3 different parts at 2 different part stores. not to mention UBER around while my car sat at the shop --- 2 times !!!!! just to replace the purge valve. - then!!!! after the purge valve was changed, the CEL was still on!
they said come back to clear the codes, and drive around for a little bit. So I filled the tank full of gas 2 times and the CEL is still there - BACK TO THE SHOP - double checked the work, CEL cleared again. And was told to drive it around again!!!!
--- all i could think is im doing all this driving with the flashing check engine light, just to see if it will stop blinking at least - I just didnt think it was that smart. ---- any ways
mechanic said he didnt know what was going on. check back in 2 weeks and give mechanic update - well its still blinking!!!
OHHHH ALSO --- while i was there talking to the mechanic again about the " yet to be fixed car", he then says oh i noticed the rpm meter was fluctuating and we really should fix the timing belt- that might help with the issue your having all together, and would help with the age and milage of my car -
( at that time did say the timing belt would not fix the blinking check engine light ) --- but still another 500$. im so fed up with this car and just cant afford a new car payment.
At that time i told my mechanic ( who is new to me --- **Face Palm** ) about all the other issues that have occurred over the past 90 days. For example -
1) check engine light was blinking -- even before i got to the shop ---the whole time! ( after research found out could be my cats - pissed ** face-plam**) my car pulls after letting off the gas pedal ( off and on - a few times , one right after the other withing seconds ) if i apply a little gas it stops immediately ( 9 times out of 10 )
2)when driving on a coast sometime ( always when it rains ) my car will almost whistle ??? low pitch kind of moan?
3) key fob no longer works right - sometimes it will beep sometimes it doesn't - and door lock is all the sudden sicking all the time. And if i don't manually lock the driver door, the key fob will not activate the lock or unlock functions.
4) sometimes when pressing on the break pedal ( off and on ) i will hear a click from my foot- i used to think it was my floor mat maybe rubbing or something - then i threw away my floor mats ... still happening.
5) first thing in the morning, only for a few moments - i feel my car wobble and i feel like its coming from the steering wheel. I feel like after the car warms up it goes away. ( only in the mornings )
6) then car will shake at high mph about 50-60 --- im to scared to drive on the freeway. Also the car will wobble again when i push on the breaks. slow stop or fast stop.
7) Sometimes if im driving and pull up to a red light that changes to green while actively slowing down, then switch to gas ( if i dont give it at least 3 seconds ) the car almost jumps ( maybe forward ) makes this horrible thump sound. --- i have balanced the tires 2 times - and even replaced them. I removed my break pads and check on the rims and roters to make sure nothing was warped or wobbly. --- oh and im in az so i get 130 mph tires for the heat care.
8) then sometimes, while driving ( any time - off and on ) i think they car delays to shift from 1st to 2nd then 2nd to 3rd - almost a forward jump again. And of course the thump to follow.
9) Off and on the car will idle rough, almost died on me a few times at a red light.
AND Last but not Least: 10) Im almost positive! all of this is effecting my MPG. and the ac was amazing when i got it and now - takes forever to get cold! And if im thinking about it, i can feel the air get warm just a tiny tiny bit off and on.
This car was supposed to be a safe purchase. And now this car is doing nothing but holding me back.
The engine fires up and appears to be ideling fine. The oil level reads full.
What could be causing this the abs turns off when I'm driving but not the cruise light but when you apply the brakes the abs light comes back on then goes off I don't know what's causing the problem the brakes seem to be fine and the cruise is off but the light continuously flashes this happens every time you start the car it just all of a sudden started but there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the car
The light is on in the dashboard air bag
Put key in ignition will not turn...wheel is not locked tried every maneuver i can think of...no luck
I saw a spark when I touched a screwdriver down my window switch on what looked like a circuit board. Now my front windows are stuck up, back windows stuck down, top stuck up, and my electric drivers seat won't budge either. It's bad because it rains almost every day in Florida and my interior is eating it. Plus want to sell it but who wants a convertible that won't work???!!!
It will try to start but will not turn over. Battery is okay! Fuel pump is coming on, it‘s like it isn't getting fuel!
I had a garage check out the AC system about 2 weeks ago. They said it has plenty of Freon, and has no leaks in the system. Since this was serviced, it has been cooling, but when it gets warmer outside, after awhile, it tends to slowly, stop cooling and then eventually, stops cooling altogether.
The people at the garage said this could be do to a hatch sticking when I change the air flow direction. However, I have left it on the upper dash level and have not changed the setting. Just as before, today, it began to slowly, stop cooling and then it eventually stopped cooling. Have any idea of what could cause this intermittent problem?
It's night and the rear lights warning in the dash comes on, I switched off the ignition and on again and it went off. This happened twice already, is it a relay ? If so, which one, it's not marked under the fuse box cover.
Brought car to mechanic to change spark plugs. Next day, get a call from the police that my car is running in the parking lot but is locked and no keys inside.
Get to my car to figure out that when I turned my car on and off again with the key, even though the engine cut the headlights and dash lights are stuck on.
Took my car back to my mechanic and he said it was a separate issue-not his fault, however he had done work to my car less than 24 hours prior and I did not have this issue before.
Whenever I'm turning on AC, car vibrates and engine turns off automatically. Car run fine without the AC or defrost.
I finally bought a diagnostic tool scanner and the above codes showed up. I've been told I need a new transmission in March but my car still runs fine. I've had my solenoid replaced twice. Last in 2011. Each time the engine light turns on a week or two later. Each time The mechanics couldn't find anything wrong.I also recently had my transmission fluid flushed. What's going on?
I know that I have a oil leask. But my main problem is the high idle. In the morning it's fine until you drive for a while and it gets hot then went you stop and put it in Park it idles high a won't go down