Toyota Sequoia QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I think there might of been two put in at the same time
But the truck will start and run fine the second time I start it. I checked for vacuum leaks and there were none. I changed the fuel filter with no change. I pulled codes p0101 and p0102, so I changed the MAS with no change. It's now showing that all 4 oxygen sensors are bad. Would that cause it to have the starting issues? Should I change the 02 sensors because there pretty expensive? I also cleaned the throttle body which gave it a smoother idle. Any ideas?
I don't notice when the problem appear for first time
The truck starts and then shuts down. But if I start it again it stays started. It also shut down one time while driving, but started again right after shutting down. I checked the vacuum hoses and there were no leaks or broken hoses.Can you please help?
Truck was running fine. I parked for 1-hour and tried to restart. Dash lights up, clicking sound, w/headlamps that go off quickly, and the engine does not turn over at all--absolutely no cranking.
Is this battery or starter, or something else?
Dreaded P0420 code. I've sprayed carb cleaner in the engine bay to test for air leaks, I've cleaned MAF sensor, replaced PC valve, no leaks in header or exhaust. Reading O2 sensor voltages produces these results. Under load both left and right post cat sensors read pretty similar. When coming off the gas both eventually drop to a lean condition. Then left post sensor almost immediately jumps to full rich. I don't think it’s a leaky injector because the left pre cat sensor doesn't spike. If anything it goes just a little lean on the left side (compared to right). I switched the post cat O2 sensors to see if it could be the sensor itself. No difference. I think it has to be a cat going (gone) bad. Does this all jive? Thanks a bunch for the help!!
I have a Toyota Sequoia and the passenger side outer tie rod has cracked in half. The crack is between the ball joint and where the tie rod threads into the outer tie rod. From looking at the end view of the broken tie rod, it appears the crack began some time ago. This was determined by the gradual discoloration from dark dirty to bright and shiny metal where it finally failed.
disassembled the door. cam that runs off motor to door lift assembly welds broke. how do i get a replacement assembly - not at the dealer, cant afford that. the cold weather is coming and i need the window up.
Clutch is gone on automatic and need to know the cost to have it rebuilt.
diagnostic said the canister purge valve solenoid needed replaced to turn check engine light off. Where is it on engine and how much is the part?
I was just wondering about how much it would cost to fix this problem? The codes stated it was a malfunction with the secondary air injector.
Recently my power locks and alarm stopped working when using the key fab. I thought it was the batteries in the key fab so I tried my backup fab. It also didn't work. Then I noticed the power locks didn't work at all unless the ignition was turned over. The same for the dome lights, when I opened the doors with the car off the dome lights would not work. But they work fine when the car is started. I double checked to make sure the lights were set to the "door position". The rear window also does not work when I insert the key and turn it - unless the car is started.
Is there a fuse that controls this that needs to be replaced, or is this a bigger issue?
Any advice would be appreciated.
The belts are worn. I need to know how to purchase the belts to ensure that they are completely safe and work with the cars electronics. Anything to beware of when purchasing?...when installing?
The door will not open but the window will come down
It leaks onto the seering rack, but only after the car is off and it starts to cool down. Is this a freeze plug? It lloks as if it is coming from the transmission, but I have no Transmission leak.
i heard someone say a knock sensor or a yaw sensor idk.
Labor hours and aveage cost?
i ask several auto parts and each one says different pressures numbers, now I'm confuse . i need to know if my gas pressure on my is correct.
The window comes down crooked and makes a loud pounding noise as if its about to break. The window will go back up smoothly.
Where is Bank 2 Sensor 1?
BACK WINDOW GOES DOWN
the radio and odometer operates just fine. But its hard to see because the back lighting isn't working.
when using flasher one side of trailer lights worked but no turn signals and heading to RI
as a chief engineer u have to recomend some test about your fuel which is causing problem in engine
BUT IT IS NOT MARKED DO YOU NOW WITCH ONE IT IS
Can I install a TRANSLATE COMPUTER ASSEMBLY my self or do I need to have the dealer do it? I have the new part in hand but don't want to screw it up.
It has a vacuum hose running from the intake manifold to a valve or swicth of somekind at the pressure hose connection on the pump and another hose running from the same valve to the intake filter tube,i cant find info on what it is .Old pump quit working,so i replaced it and the new one doesnt work either.Could this valve be causing it?
the handle broke!!! I am seeing this is a very common problem. Is there a recall in the works??
I had the headlight relay go out again. I used a paper clip to see if I could bypass it. All that does is leave the lights on full time. Which makes sense and I thought that happen. Well.....I put in a new relay and I have no headlights at all. I put in both old ones too and same thing. Is there another fuse? I am having a heck of a time finding info for this.
After having the bushings on the rack and pinion replaced the VSC started kicking on when you go into a sharp curve. The dealer has replaced the main computer and a sensor but when I took it home it still does it. They can not figure it out nor did they advise about the recall and they do not think it is related to the other work but it is odd that it started immediately after the bushings were replaced.