After several resets by dealer & self and replacing spark plugs (not spark coils) still getting codes. Dealer only seeing misfire codes 1 cyl at a time; I am now getting the multiple random DTC and several individual. Engine very rough on cold starts & throwing misfire codes then. On cleared hot starts is fine until heavy load or high rpm acceleration, sometimes won't shift to 4th. Get 1 sec flash check engine and rough rpm. Since all cyl affected suspect fuel or vac leak. Vehicle has 108,000 miles. Have run fuel inj cleaner in one tank, now running dry-gas in another tank at dealer recommendation. Can't find reliable info on fuel filter replacement. Vacuum leak possible too? Getting no other DTC's. Thoughts?

pleas help to repair it or know which part maybe need to check .

this problem is worst with the air on , but is very noticeable at highway speeds as well as idle. but turn off fan swithch and its ok


Also, will I absolutely need to replace engine mounts as a part of this repair? How much should I expect to pay for this?

It appears that I need a heater core replacement.
The description of the symptoms are spot on for my car.
Toyota has quoted me about $2,000.
My car is 19 year old, but I can't afford to replace it, yet. Any useful information will be appreciated.

About 4-5 months ago I was driving my rav4 when I heard some squealing and grinding noises from under the hood I was told that its probably the cam belt needing replaced,I can't remember right off hand but I think it has 160-180,000 on the engine,I've been keeping it maintained regularly this is an issue that concerns me so after I heard the noises I stopped driving the vehicle and its been sitting ever since.I haven't had the means or way of fixing it,due to lack of hours at work. Any advice or concerns would be greatly appreciated

Hi, six months ago I purchased this car cheap cause of seized engine, so we did an engine swap of another used 3s( it was in pretty good condition, compression 175, sealed), but since that the check engine light is on, the code is p0401, so I put a brand new vsv, egr modulator and egr valve(non oem), then I cleaned with carb cleaner, cleaned the lines and checked them to be connected as supposed, and the problems is still there. As I changed those and the light keep coming, I decided to take it to the mechanic, I took it like 5 times to the first mechanic and he never could fix it, neither the second, the second one seemed to know more, but he couldnt, this one also tried cleaning the throtle body, the intake manifold.
One thing he told me is that the egr valve when you push it, the engine should start stalling, but it doesnt.

runs for about 2-3min till it warms up then it only runs for 15seconds

runs for 2 or 3 min when it is warmed up it shut down then its

Car was in a accident, hit in the rt. front wheel. We replaced the knee assy. and speed sensor, checked all fuses and master cyl. is full all other lights are working properly.

The shop used Dexron3, along with an additive, which they said would make it the equivalent of Toyota ATF4. Within a few days, I had trouble shifting gears and ended up needing a transmission rebuild. The oil express shop stated that although the wrong transmission fluid was used, they put the additive in which would have prevented any problems from occurring.

I'm trying to do 60,000 mile maintenance on my rav 4

driving on highway,the vsc,4wd,check engine lights came on. no loss of power no sputtering, just not sure why these came on...

turn key to on and the noise stops

Tail light fuse blows when I turn on headlights, no running tail lights.

On one site I read that Toyota covered this repair even though beyond warranty.
Is this possible? Another site said 2008 rav 4 doesn't have viscous coupling rather has electro magnetic something or other..?

How large a snow tire may I safely use on all four wheels?

Noticed a gas fume smell inside my car after a long car trip. I only smell it when either the fan/AC/heat is on. Other than the smell, the car is running fine. None of the dashboard lights are on and my fuel level is not dropping rapidly. Took it to the mechanic and they are stumped. The mechanic thought he identified the smell when the hood was open - they changed the o-rings in the fuel injectors and also replaced two of the fuel injectors. I picked up my car the other day and the smell is still there when the fan/AC/heat is on. I've read up on this online, and most people who smell gas fumes in their car also have check engine/O2 sensor lights that are going off. But none of my lights are going off. Anyone have any ideas? If you do, please share, it'd be greatly appreciated. My car only has 100,000 miles and I would really like to fix the problem so I can keep driving my car!

light is on, the little car that slides is on. please help was running fine til -9 degrees hit the other night.