Toyota RAV4 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
$8,000.00. Is this a good deal based on age of vehicle?
just bought this rav4 and was driving home over mtn pass.did very well! halfway home the lights started this .. only every 10 minutes or longer between dimming.
Starts, then stalls out. No diagnostic codes, shops says they can't pull codes because computer out.
My truck just stopped running going down the road. A tester was put on it and said thise two sensors were bad. It wont crank
I checked the EFI fuses and relays, but I couldn't hear the fuel pump make any noise when I checked it out. Is this common to happen if you run out of fuel?
engine light on water going out muffler
The CHECK & 4WD lights continue to show while engine is running. A scan displayed the code P0793 with the information "Intrermediate Shaft Speed Censor No Signal." please how do I solve this problem? Is the vehicle in danger?
I cleaned gas fill neck and cap gasket with alcohol. Check engine lite codes P0440, 441, 446.
then a wire burnt out near an ignition and beacause i live in the UAE and american parts are hard to get here im putting off on doing the sensor how ever im having troubles like u cant imagine first of all my car has lost a lot of engine problems but my main concern is that everytime i put the car on N and shift it to D the cars seems to jump as if there is a gear problem then tiptronic gears dont seem to be working everytime i switch to sports the dashboard dont even change from D to 6 5 4 3 2 1 can anyone be off asist
is this a fair price and should the strut and swaybar be changed in pairs ?
after changing both, the Rav4 is still turning over, but I have to try several times to crank it before it will start.
about to buy an auction car that says damaged undercarriage.
First it was the ECM, now it's the codes from the catalytic converter. I'm reading on here that there is a software update. So....?
I was sitting in my car with it running (about 85 degrees outside) I looked and noticed that the lights on the dash were on but the air was still blowing. I turned the key to the off position and tried to re-start the car, it would turn the lights on the dash back on, my air was blowing, the radar detector came on but the car would not click or crank it made no sound. I tried moving the gear shifter to neutral and back to park still would not make a sound. After about 30 minutes it clicked once while I tried to start it. After about 15 more minutes it was cranking but would not turn over or fire. Tried tapping the starter as best we could but it did not start it either. Finally got some jumper cables and after 4 tries and being hooked up about 5-10 minutes it finally started (but was idling hard and kind of shaking) and died 2 more times before I made it home about 5 miles away. Both times it restarted by being jumped off with cables. Since I got home it has started fine and have had no issues but it has not left the driveway. My husband wondered if it might have been a bad censor or maybe he got bad gas that clogged the fuel filter, I was told it was probably the starter. Just looking for advice on what this might be!
The light is above the hood release, on the left side of the steering wheel. The book sez it is the lock release. Why is it staying on? And how do I get it off?
motor surges really bad with the air conditioner on. It is really bad while driving that I have to turn ac off. Not quite as bad with just headlights on alone. could this be a alt. problem
It's difficult for it to rev. Why?
I recently had a diagnostic test because CEL, VSC, and 4WD/TRAC (Check Engine Light, Vehicle Stability Control, and 4-Wheel Drive/Traction Control lights went on. The code was P0138-I had the Bank 1 Sensor 2 replaced yet the lights above went back on in a day or 2.
I read that the problem may be a defective charcoal canister filter which costs about 1500.00 to repair. How can I determine what the real issue is before dishing out that much $$$. Will Toyota pay for those repairs if it is a defective canister filter?