Toyota Echo Questions

Get answers to questions about your Toyota Echo at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

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but the check engine light keep coming back what could it be?

What happens when the struts and shocks wear out (how does it affect the car over all?)

Mechanic says I need to replace shock/strut and need a stabilizer bar kit. Total cost for job is about $900. My understanding is that there are two(?) shock and struts (4 in total). Will they have to replace all 4 at one time or could it be they meant one shock, one strut (the estimate looks like they are charging for one of each rather than both for back and front).

Problems when there is too much motor oil in the engine?

Replaced fuses relays tested the fuel pump there's no power coming from the wire harnesse to the pump what could it be?

But sounds like batt is dying,I needed gas and someone out gas in from gas can 2 min later if that car ran rough and died will not start and killed my batt. What do I check or do ?

I have been having this oil light problem for about 3 months. The car is running smoothly and very well. Starts quickly, have power and it doesn't stall.
The problem is the oil light is on.
The oil sensor switch was replaced but oil light still on. A local mechanic checked with a scanner and said that indicated a misfire, and may be the spark plugs and/or a coil or fuel injector need to be replaced. However, the engine is not vibrating or showing any sign of having any malfunction. Oil is new and to the right level. The car has 71000 miles. Don't know whom to trust for the repairs and how much would it cost. So far, local mechanics can't give me a fairly accurate estimate. What do you think?

When I apply a little pressure on brake pedal the raffling stops

Car over heats and radiator leaks since water pump pulley shakes during rotation

after a while the radio light came on but was dim and then bright and then dim and then evened out to the regular light the radio has when it is on. What is the problem

A red flag has popped up on the car dash screen what does that mean?

Block gasket was replace and the block was repair but continue with air in the system.

New: clutch n pressure plate

A mechanic is selling me his manual toyota echo 2003 model in fairly good conditions and moderate price (1600 USD) . I'm a student and can't afford luxury cars. Only issue in my mind is that it has already run 3 hundred and 50 thousand kms. I want to know what is the useful life if Toyota echo engine. IF i purchase it, would i be able to get another hundred and 50 thousand kms from it or should i look for other cars.The overall condition of the car seems to b very good. Any suggestions wud be appreciated

I cannot find "transmission mount" or "motor mount" listed under the repair list on this site to get a cost. Does anyone know what these procedures cost in San Diego, CA or at least in general? Thanks

Does one need to change the brake fluid when replacing pads and turning the rotor or replacing the rotor?

I just had my brake shoes replaced and the mechanic charged me a haz fee of $7. I've never seen a haz fee for parts like this in the past. Is this legit? Thanks!

attempt to get it fixed. Last year, Spider webs were cleaned out (from where I don't recall), and after a week the light reappeared. This year I replaced the purge solenoid valve. Again, after just a few days, the check engine light is back on. I need to get my car inspected and know it won't pass!

172,000 miles. Regular maintenance. Transmission is slipping and has little to no power. Finding it hard to believe that the transmission in a Toyota is already bad. Could it be something else besides the transmission? Only other codes are EVAP system but those shouldn't affect the transmission. Thanks.

Does anyone now where i could get original parts for my 2003 Echo. The original parts on the car have lasted 350,000 miles so far and i would like to get parts from the original manufacturer. If they lasted this long then they will last another 350,000 miles or more. i want to see if i can get to the one million mark on the car, and farther!!!!!!!!!

When I turn the ignition to "on," the fuel gauge pins hard below empty about three times. Then, a second or so later, the speedometer oscillates wildly, settling at exactly 65 MPH.

The car won't crank. The headlamps don't light. A 100A booster charger doesn't change the situation, nor does keeping a jumpstart battery in parallel.

I tried my crappy little OBD II scanner and it gets a Link Failure.

What should I try?

Prior eveb b4 I owned it.. it has 123000 miles on ran great b4 is this the PROBLEM FERRRSUREE N IF I BUY THE PARTs WILL IT BRING IT back to as good as it was. . Seeing the assembly new runs 70-99$ ...

I put slightly over-sized rims and low-profile tires on my Echo. Big O assured me the fit was OK. Ever since, the rear tires rub when going over speed bumps while carrying a load in the trunk or 2 people in the back seat. Is there a solution other than going back to stock wheels?

Check engine warning light comes on every once in a while but there is nothing wrong with the car. Someone told me there is a way to shut it off myself instead of having a mechanic do it.

Our Toyota Echo will crank, the motor will shake, lifters will make noise, & it won't rev up.
We've replaced the fuel pump relay, spark plugs, starter, & put in a new battery.
Our friend says it's the motor, but we don't think so. He also said it was out of oil, but we know it wasnt cause we keep oil in it, but he added 2 quarts. It just needed to be changed.