i just bought a 2009 Corolla, took it home for one day and has not done the inspection sticker yet, I check engine came on the next day. Brought back to a small dealer and was told that he took to Toyota dealer for a test, not sure what the code was, but said that the something wrong with the timing chain valve. They are waiting for the part and will take the next few days to complete the job. Now I am not sure if I should return the car or keep it.

The car starts up with rpm at around 2 or 3000 then goes dips down to less than 1000 rpm and is very shaky. At some red lights, it shakes as though it will turn off. I'm thinking it could be O2 sensor, catalytic converter, something with the fuel system, or even drive belts. Any professional opinion would ve very helpful!

fuse box on positive battery cable what is it for and do i need it to have my car started

Tried to jump it and no lights or nothing working can't even get it out of park. Battery light came on before it was turned off

My issue is my radio comes on without the key in the switch , this started 10/15/2016. The only way to cut the radio off is with the on/off button. If I don't cut it off the radio will continue to play. This is so weard to me. I want to know is there any recalls or anything on this.

The problem occurs on & off when belt connected

Now the Engine check light is on, " SC off" light blinking, "slip indicator" light on. How do I reset these lights?

The car starts up and idals fine but when I try to accelerate it skips.. Changed the Cadillac converter fuel filter fuel pump..

Just happened. Just put in new battery and air filter.

It's annoying. Toyota dealer wants $300 just to look. Asked several mechanics if can disconnect seat belt lamp on dash - said it was connected with other items. True?

Any inexpensive ways to resolve? I don't need the flashing lamp since the seat belt otherwise works.

the car starts and go off immediately it starts especially in the morning,but works ok in the afternoon

While I was driving, steering wheel and brake pedal has locked, all of a sudden. The engine was still on. I turned off the engine with the key, and when I turned on the engine again, both of steering wheel and brake were working again. I bought this brand new Toyota Corolla 2015, 1 year ago, from Toyota Dealer. This dealer is shady and I can't trust them. What should I do?

check head light fuses both sides look good, both bulbs on drivers side look good what else can it be?

I need to get parts for my '07 Corolla and I found a used '99 I can take parts from. I'm wondering if they will work.

What parts is the code associated with?

My car is an automatic but the shift in in the console between the seats. When I drive there is a loud rattling sound under my car that sounds like it is just below the gear shift or just forward of that. When I put it in neutral it will often stop making that noise. It does not do it all the time.

When I turn on my A/C it smells like mold. I dont know if I get use to it or it goes away after running a long time. I have had the coolant flushed in the past but it just came back a short time after.

The right left tire feels like it is wobbling but only when I go over 60 mph? Sometimes it will wobble enough to make whole car wobble and then suddenly stop and not wobble at all.

I was just wondering. Also, if I had this same car even older, say 1988, would it need to be smog?

Both rear doors do not lock automatically any longer. They will both unlock, just not lock back. How much is the repair and can I do it myself?

...when I'm driving my Toyota Corolla, I don't want to activate the high beams by accident, so I was wondering if there is a way to never hit it and if it's always close to the regular button to activate the headlights.

I first changed the entire starter/solenoid assy., then installed a new battery and new positive battery clamp and cleaned the wires. It still clicks at the starter (once only) when I turn the key to start.

I've only had it for about a year and put about 10,000 miles on it... Earlier in the year I replaced the spark plugs, wires, and the distributer. It's ran almost perfect until about a month ago... It started running rough at idle and I guess what feels like it's bogging down and wants to die but never does. When driving it seems to run smooth and as far as I can see, I don't think I'm losing any gas mileage but I'm not completely sure.

the rpm needle goes up when it shakes it's more like a hard vibration but I don't think that's normal ?

The ac works great but the controls have had to be giggled to turn it on for a week or so. Then today, it lost the connection completely and i can't turn it on. Mom got an estimate for 1k??? But it seems like a short or panel knob or a loose wire vs a major issue. Suggestions???

I bought my car at 55k miles! They changed the timing belt (or was it a chain?) as a condition of sale! I am now at 115k miles! Do I need it changing again? I've heard chains last longer and that an 05 model should be a chain! How would I know if it is? Basically, when do I need to replace it again?

when I left the car last june 1, 2016 it's still working but when I come back august 7, 2016 it won't start any more. the stater is redounding very fast but it won't push through running the engine. it looks like there problem in the distributor.

I went on two months vacation last june 2016 and when I come back recently I tried to start the engine of my corolla it won't even if it is crancking very fast.

I am not having any luck finding out how to fix my 2006 Toyota Corolla (US built) as the right front brake locked up after going through a parking lot slowly. It cooled and I was able to drive again for several weeks -- no trouble lights on. Then it did it again. We replaced caliper, pads, and the soft brake line from the caliper. Within 15 minutes problem developed again -- slower acceleration, noted drag and pulled over to find right front brake locked up again.

We finally even ordered a salvaged pump/controller which was bench tested as fine. New was $2000 plus -- this was about $200. Paid hundreds to have Toyota dealership remove and replace then flush with their scan tool. They called me to let me know it was all fixed. I drove it around the block and parked. By the time I walked back out it was locked up again. They insist I just need to buy the NEW pump/controller even though the exact same wheel is the problem. I think the odds of that are slim. But I just don't know.

I bought the car new so know that it never did this before. Now I am over $1000 down on an older but good car which has been out of commission for 3 months as no one here seems to know what to do. I live on the Big Island -- Hawaii and have NOT taken it to our other dealership yet -- $$$ drain quickly if they are searching in the dark.

They insisted that everything tested fine after their repair but certainly agreed that it was locked up again.

The heat in my car doesn't work. The mechanic flushed it out but it still won't work. He claims the water pump needs to be replaced and wants to charge me around 500-600 for everything. Am I getting ripped off?