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I have just replaced the Rear (Driver's Side) Spindle Bearing assembly but I need to know the Torque Value for the four bolts to the Strut.

I have a 97 Camry, 4-cylinder LE model. The car runs well, no hesitation; if I just get in and start the car it starts fast. Like most cars, you can turn the ignition key to the acc position or the start position without starting the car. If I leave turn the car keys to the start position, and leave it in that position for a few minutes, then the car is hard to start when I fully turn the key to start the car; the ignition will cut out if I don’t give it gas for 10 seconds. The engine light is not on, and there is no engine light code because of a bad bulb; I’ve had the engine code read at Autozone. I've replaced the ignition wires and tested the ignition coil with an ohmmeter; all is well. If I turn the key to acc, one click before start setting, just to power things while the car is not started, then there is no problem starting the car when I want to. Please let me know if anybody out there has had this problem, and what you did to fix it.

we we tried to jump start our car the cables were crossed and now we have no gas pedal

The door on the drivers side will not open. It will open
from the outside, but not inside.

sometime the car will start, run, and idle well sometimes not. sometime when car is shut off it will not start back, like it is flooded. replaced air filter and helped for a while but problem returned. replaced plugs, wires, rotor button, and cap didnt help.

Passenger door handle is broken. Door must be opened from inside car.

I need to replace the timing belt as maintaince. What is the cheap version of this maintaince?

My Camry has 93,000 miles on it and I maintain it regularly. I have only been driving it once or twice a week for the past 2 months. Last week the check engine light came on and a diagnostic produced Evap Emission Control codes: P0440, P0441, and P0446. I noticed that my gas cap was very loose (probably worked itself loose in the heat since I've barely been driving it) so I tightened it and ignored the light, figuring that was surely what caused it to come on.

A few days later I started the car again and the clock on my console was totally out, and is still not lit up at all. I ignored this too.

Now, a week later, I go to start it again and it just clicked when I turned the key. I tried to get a jump from someone without initial success, but after he had me shift into drive and pushed my car back and forth a few times it finally started.

The same thing occurred again after I finished my errands and tried to start it to go home. A jump was unsuccessful, but when I waited a minute and tried to start it again, it worked.

Now it is parked again outside my house and I am obviously anticipating a re-occurrence. The connections on the battery look good, and the battery is fairly new. I've had two people tell me the starter needs to be replaced, but it makes me wonder if the clock that stopped working could be a sign that something else is wrong instead?

I am alone in a new city and far from home and my trusted mechanic. Any advise? Thank you in advance.

-Sarah

what causes a green crust to form around the positive and negative wire points?

My 1992 Camry dies after running 12 miles. We have replaced the fuel pump, distributor cap and sensors. Any ideas?

Just purchased a used 1997 Toyota Camry, 161K miles. Ran fine for a month but then statred misfiring. After tuneup (plugs, wires and new valve cover gasket) the engine is still misfiring on two cylinders (code verified). New mechanic says it is a blown head gasket and wants 750 for gasket repair and replacement of timing belt and water pump. Does this sound reasonable? Any suggestions?

my check engine light is on my 2007 camry v6. i went to get it diagnosed and code p-0354 came on. I wanted to know the location of coil D.

At first it would just come on when I started my car up and turn off after about a mile. However now it comes on and will stay on for 20 minutes, every now and they it will just go on and off at random times throughout the trip. It's really driving me crazy. What can I check for myself or should I just take it in?

For maintainence reasons, I'm replacing the timing belt on a 1998 4 cylinder Toyota Camary, and I've heard that on some cars, the water pump should be replaced also. Do I need to have the water pump replaced along with the timing belt for this kind of car? Thanks.

What bulb is required?

PRDLL1L2 do not light up with headlights on.

For a 5-speed, what fluid to use for the clutch hydraulic?

What fluid to use for power steering?

Thanks in advance

Car was running fine. Stopped for fuel then wouldnt start. Engine turns over no spark. Checked coil,replaced with wrecking yard parts distributer,ECU,igniter,also checked ignition switch. Checked timing belt. Replaced cap and rotor.

This is the second time in a year that the parking lights have stayed on when the lights are shut off and the key is removed. The first time, I replaced the headlight relay. This time I removed all the relays and the fuses that I could get out and the lights still stayed on. My only solution is to remove the battery cable each time I use the car. This problem also included the dash lights.

During the summer, on a couple of occassions, with the air on a vapor came through the vents. Shortly thereafter the control for the fan was not responsive until turned to high. The control issue is still the same using heat instead of AC. What should I expect to be repaired and the cost.

i have no brake lights on my camry, the tail lights do turn on just no brake lights. Checked bulbs and fuse and they are good. i do get my third brake light on the one on the rear deck, just not the 2 main.

didnt change oil, ran engine out of oil

I think I made a mistake by setting the gap at 0.030 before going to the SMOG station.

I gather from the internet that wider gap is better for low rpm fuel economy and better emission for HC.

The spec is 0.043, someone told me.

Is 0.043 the best to pass smog in terms of HC? Can I gap to 0.052 for the best HC result?

Info on headlight ajustment. Screws located?? Procedure.

Thanks in advance.

Car was parked, tried to start it and it would not. Jumped it and drove it home, turned it off, and it would not start. Took out the battery, had it checked, it was fine and reinstalled it. Had the alternator checked, it was fine, reinstalled it. Car would then start and run, but all of the dash and the exterior lights are out, and the car will not shift out of park.

i am having a vibration in the front end on my car. does it all the time.the steering wheel vibrates. new struts on the rear and new tires need a idea on what to check on the front to start small and work to the worst.

I spent $225 at a California smog station to get my car to pass.

I had not been driven for about nearly five years.

The HC at 15 mph was marginal, just pass at 84, the passing limit is 85.

What is my chance of passing again in 2012, say if the DMV does not lower the limit?

Will a new catalyic converter help?

The car runs well.

It failed 15 mph HC first, at about 100. Then the guy at teh station did a carbon clean. A liquid was sucked into the engine where the brake pneumonic drim booster

dealer says leaking heater core. However, there is no smell, looks water to me, no color. Defogger works fine. Passenger front side not wet. Is the diagnosis correct. Also, quote was 1200. RepairPal estimate says 400. Is it correct?

Does a 1990 Camry with Air conditioner have a cabin or air conditioner filter?

The car's alarm went off in the middle of the night and goes off and on for no reason. Could it be because we havent started the car for about one week and the battery was week? How can we avoid this happening again and waking the whole neighborhood?