Suzuki QuestionsRefine by vehicle
problem haws occured once
My hose has a big slice in it and it needs to be replaced.
where can I find the upgraded clutch pedal? My weld broke as well
Just had tune up, oil change, exhaust work done. Checked all fluds - good.
when it accelerates and when the auto transmission shifts gears. Midas tells me my power steering pump is falling apart from the inside. They said they found that out by using a stetoscope. I have no problem steering the car. My 2 out of town mechanic sons tell me it's the transmission not the power steering pump. Should I take it to the Suzuki dealership?
but quickly turned off i started to drive.
Only leaking a little on the front left and looking a little moist on the front right. Can I just do a half axle replacement? Also when is it an emergency to have this done?
When on the way there is a need to stop and start car 4 ~ 5 times it starts MISSING (Current or Fuel Supply interrupts.
Have Changed: Distributor Cap, Rotor Arm, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Point Ignition Coil, Fuel Pump etc. No improvement. Please mention possible problem.
There is no cold air blowing and a/c fan not working.
The fender panels are vibrating and make a very annoying sound.
were can I get a fair price shop in murrieta,ca
when I put my x90 in neutral it rolls fine but when I put it on my tow dolly it acts like its in gear what am I doing wrong
first i changed the gas cap yesterday ... my service engline soon lamp finally went off today ... cleaned battery terminals today & after re-installing, truck ran good for about 10 miles (no stops) ... when i stopped, it stalled at idle about 3 times before reaching my destination ... does anyone know if i have a fuel issue or perhaps the computer got confused from the power interruption ??? someone said on another forum that the computer has to re-learn after power interruptions?
replacement on a suzuki xl7 2002
But as the granny wont ingadge why?
Do I need tape, glue, a new hose? Looks like an easy fix but not sure.
sugestions of what could be the possible causes
Just bought used 2008 Forenza no check engine light on when we bought it on Monday, had $417 worth of work done incl. replacing timing belt, no check engine light then back on next day, back in shop and another $250 for thermostat sensor replacement and diagnosing of non-functioning A/C - said need new throttle body but couldn't be sure as no tool to diagnose. Car runs fine, no loss of power, etc., and now the A/C works although no work done to it but garage quoted $500+ as new compressor needed? We are taking it to a garage w/right diagnostic tool for better accuracy - spent $3350 for car and we are up to 4k now, plus car has a few dents (not huge but...) feeling like we got ripped off, praying this ends up to be a really good car but gas mileage doesn't even seem to be very good either :-(
there is a small amount of oil leaking from recent gasket replacement
I was told I needed new struts. I took it to another mechanic for a 2nd oppinion. He said they are fine, they aren't leaking and they passed the test. I still hear a noise plus two more noises. One being a can rattle noise , the other one is it sounds like a space ship when I start the car.
Cd will go into changer, run for a few seconds, eject and display "error 4"
Seems tyo misfire in higher gears when approaching 50 mph with erratic idling.
I would have to play with the controls or turn the AC off and on and than the AC would blow cold air again. Most of the time the ac would blow cold air normally but lately I find myself playing with the controls or turning the ac on and off a lot more and two days ago it just stopped blowing cold air altogether no matter what I do. Could this be a low refrigerant problem? Or could this be a condenser fan motor problem? What would cause the problem to be intermittent and now no cold air at all
stopped at stop sign, check engine light came on and then transmission was slipping
After about a year of trying to figure out the problem with this car, I finally got it thoroughly scanned and received a P1779 code, an Engine Torque Input Malfunction. I was told that I would have to take my car back to the dealership in order to get the ECU reprogrammed and updated. Do I have to go to a dealership or can I go to a service shop? How much will this cost?
I cannot tell you how angry I am when I see yet again, the bumper cap has dropped off somewhere unknown, during normal driving. Why does this happen, and why am I expected to replace these things over and over and over and over? I KNOW SOMETHING IS WRONG AND THIS IS AN ISSUE WITH THE CAR. I SEE OTHER POSTS WITH REGARD TO SAME THING. WILL SUZUKI HONOR THE COST AND REPAIR OF THIS? I WILL WRITE AND WRITE AND WRITE COMPLAINTS UNTIL I GET A SATISFACTORY ANWSER. THIS IS WHAT USA GETS FOR BRINGING THESE FOREIGN PIECES OVER HERE I SUPPOSE. NEVER AGAIN WILL I PURCHASE A FOREIGN CAR !! IF THIS IS NOT HANDLED WITH AT LEAST BASIC CUSTOMER SERVICE SUPPORT AND RESPECT. I SHOULD NOT HAVE TO PAY FOR THEIR MISTAKES, OVER AND OVER AND OVER. THIS IS CRAZY.
VERY UPSET COMSUMER.
I have been trying to diagnose this cars issues for some time and I have had it. Car started having trouble starting and would die when coming to stops. I have dropped the gas tank cleaned it out, put a new fuel pump, new fuel filter and new gas. Car still had trouble starting, drove for a few miles parked it and now it turns over but will not start argh! When trying to start the car it wants to start, you can hear back firing also. So now I have removed the EGR valve, gross full of yucky stuff (I'm a girl hence the gross yucky words LOL) and the spring was not moving properly, I cleaned it all up, the spring moves easy now, cleaned the throttle body really good too! Car still has same issue and now I'm more frustrated. So on to the next thing I cleaned the PCV and also checked to make sure the fuel pressure regulator was working properly. Car still will not start. I have checked to make sure all hoses are connected and not worn or breaking, put a new battery, spark plugs and wires. Checked the IAT, IAC, and cleaned out the MAF sensor. I am so lost for words on what to do next, I would really like to get this car running again. Any suggestions on what could be the issue? I would be most thankful.
replaced bad mass a/f sensor,cleared codes.got running & no codes returned.low & rough idle,cuts off.ck fuel pres. & found it was too low @ injectors.replaced pump,still have idle problem.runs great above idle.also has new s.plugs,air filter,cleaned intake.drives good above idle,high speed no problem.still not codes.a BIG thanks for any help,jimmy.email email@example.com
someone told me I have to replace both positive and neg. as they are connected as one cable..is this true,if so what is
the cost of replacing it ? I also see an auto part house seems to disagree,the have a cable that they claim will replace the positive terminal (autocraft) and its only $10..
who is correct,or will either work ?