Subaru Outback Questions
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Code went away and came back, could this have been caused by sub. freezing weather...on highway engine temp went below normal range.
The engine light came after starting in very cold weather and the engine temp stayed below normal oper. range. However it is normal now so why the code?
I noticed this within the 50 miles. Had the dealer check it at 100 miles. Alignment it was in spec. Just went on a 800 mile trip and had to make the correction the entire drive. Does this at all speeds. What to try next? Thanks
bulbs look good.Wires seem intact. Whats wrong here..thanks..bob
TRACTION BECOMES UNSTABLE UNDER ICY CONDITIONS WHERE IT APPEARS THAT TOO MUCH POWER IS BEING DISTRIBUTED TO THE FRONT OF THE DRIVE LINE THEN OSCILLATING TO EACH INDIVIDUAL FRONT WHEEL. IN MY OPINION TOO MUCH OF THE VEHICLES POWER IS BEING CONCENTRATED TO THE FRONT DIFFERENTIAL IS ALTERNATELY DISTRIBUTED BETWEEN THE FRONT WHEELS AND KIND OF GETS STUCK IN THIS MODE UNTIL I SLOW DOWN OR I CAN GET BETTER TRACTION ON ONE SIDE OR THE OTHER.
After sitting for anywhere from 1/2 hr to an hour, the brakes free up and the car can be driven, but only a short distance before they both lock up again.
Car ran GREAT into town (10 miles) then back. Shut it off. Son drove it to work, it stalled within 3 miles of home. Car won't RUN unless one of the sensors are unplugged from throttle body, then only runs a rough idle. Could this be a bad MAF sensor, IAC sensor, MAP??? don't know what to do about this.
If I unplug one of the 2 sensors on top of my throttle body, the car will start but only runs at a rough idle until gas peddle is pressed then dies. With car running at rough idle (as above) if I plug in "that" sensor, car will die. No engine codes reported. What are the two sensors on throttle body that are not the TPS?
I took my car to the dealership because the check engine light came on (together with cruise control flashing) and I was told that I needed to replace both catalytic converters, but none of the oxygen sensors.
It blows it out of the cylinder repeatedly. The plug was not cross-threaded so I really don't know wat to do.
After I release breaks - car practically don't move until I press gas pedal. I think it's car Computer. How to reset it. Or, just wait a couple of more days, and it will reset itself ? Thanks.
Is the fuse dedicated for just the dashboard?
My brake light and battery light go on intermittently...why? Car starts up, battery's a little crusty, but had both checked out (alternator & battery) and they are okay. Why the lights?
my Mechanic is telling me $800.00 to 1,000.00 but i've been searching websites and i'm seeing estimate no more than 500.00 to 600.00
I am looking at a 2005 XT with a turbo. 27000 miles and in good shape, but the turbo is a question of reliability.
can I just change the valve cover gasket which is leaking oil, and then later change the spark plugs which I understand get oil on them when the valve cover gasket leaks. Can't afford both which one should I do first? The valve cover gasket?
Told that back struts cause of car swaying and bouncing at speed. Front are leaking oil.
then it kicks in. The shifter pysically moves but not the car.help
after it started. Then ABT light came on and AB? light started flickering, turn signal lights made a swooshing sound and are dim, car made several hard jerks in the mile it took me to leave it at a shop. Any ideas what is wrong?
Never had issues before. Care has 74500 miles. No warning lights or alarms on dash.
When pressing on gas pedal, there is a kind of rattling sound.
Not the entire axle just the inner rubber boot. I understand the part can avg. about $60
After driving for a mile or two idle is about 900 to 1000 RPM
At times car has no power like its not getting enough gas
Only when I start my car, and not everytime.
The problem occurs all the time between 32 and 40 mph. Particularly noticeable on freshly paved roads. Just replaced right front axle, fixed heat shield on exhaust and replaced disc pads on front brakes and resurfaced rotors. Tires realigned and balanced. Mechanic thought new axle was defective and put in another one. Same noise/vibration exists. It only occurs when accelerating--doesn't happen in neutral or coasting downhill.
Have the boot in place, just can't seem to get it on the rim on the inner (engine) end. Can I push with a screwdriver?(Don't want to cut it). I need help. Thanks
I have a manifold gasket that keeps blowing I think because the block is aluminum. Since this lets out emissions before getting to the catalytic converter. Could this be the reason I am getting a low threshold reading? When I turn the engine light off it takes about two weeks before it comes back on and usually when highway driving.
Can I just replace the boot or does steering linkage have to be replaced too?
fluid for my transmission will not go in the tranny thur the dipstick opening
The warranty has expired. Does anyone recommend buying an extended warranty for this car with this low mileage? Thanks!