Close
322
questions

cleaned maf sensor and light still on.

I was told my engine had been leaking oil from gaskets ever since my last oil change. My engine oil supposedly showed a lot of engine damage. No oil smell ever, no oil drips beneath my car in garage, NO engine oil light ever displayed in car, and car driving perfectly. Perfectly. ZERO sign of ANYTHING wrong with the car. And all this information comes my way the day I bring it in to SUBARU for its 90,000 mile service. By the way I have a perfect service/maintenance record.

Took to dealer, service manager tells me it is up to speck, and besides it is normal so that the car will not CROSS CENTER LINE. Notice am a woman,so this tells me he thinks I don't know what I am talking about. This is my 6th Subaru never had this before.

I asked the repair place to check the brakes and that they were pulsating. They said that it was the inner tie rods and not the brakes and that I could drive it awhile and bring it in when I had my next oil change. I drove about 1000 miles, felt uncomfortable, and took it in. The inner tie rods were replaced, but the problem persisted. I took it back and they said the solution was to replace the rotors and front brakes. This car has 250,000 miles, has been well maintained. My question is by driving this car after I asked about the brakes, didn't I then destroy the rotors and seriously how difficult is it to mistake the tie rods and the brake repair as I asked each time for the brakes to be looked at. Was I misdiagnosed?

Thanks

The front wheels also jump when turning.

Left doors open,key in ignition. Attempted jump - gauges now light but engine won't turn. Code did show can't remember it.

dealer price 1400 dollars is that a good price?

dealer price 1400 dollars is that a good price?

check engine light on cruise light flashing dealer quote 1400 to change 2 oxygen valves

check engine light on cruise light flashing dealer quote 1400 to change 2 oxygen valves

reGearbox e-4at a problem only when the car is stored several hours, starting slowly at a gear and often hitting very sharpported fault code po700 po734 po732

Average cost of timing belt replacement for this car?

2006 SUBARU LEGACY OUTBACK 2.5I
AWD
STATION WAGON
2.5L H4 SFI SOHC 16V
ALL WHEEL DRIVE

all systems are functioning properly it is safe to drive it. This has been occurring for over a year, and I still get 31 pmg..when I put a plastic bag over the gas cap, sometimes that solves the problem. Just the other nite I was driving in San Diego and it went off and the next day it came back on. All systems seem to be working well..thanks, poppycoco

I am having the same exact problem with my '00 Outback. However I do not hear any backfiring.... it just feels like it is losing power when accelerating at lower speeds. Lurking, hesitation, weakness in being able to get up and go. Yes, the Check Engine light is also sputtering on and off. However the only thing this indicated when it was diagnosed was that it needed a new catalytic converter. Would a bad catalytic converter cause this issue... or would it be something else? In the colder months of the year... I have also smelled gas intermittently. Not a weak smell of gas... but a strong smell of gas... like you are sticking your nose in the tank when filling it.

The ABS will stay on until the car is stopped. Also recently went on a trip where my cruise control wouldn't work when my headlights were on after the ABS light had come on.

The head gasket has been repaired and timing belt changed. I have 112K miles on the car. After the repair I was still having the same problem. Running out of oil/engine light on/ dip stick dry. What do you think is the issue, and is it repairable?

had the heads re-done and now can't get it to run

Subaru H6 cylinder both sides

Sounds like it is coming from the passage side. Could it be a problem with trim, I mean like the plastic that covers things.

Code went away and came back, could this have been caused by sub. freezing weather...on highway engine temp went below normal range.
The engine light came after starting in very cold weather and the engine temp stayed below normal oper. range. However it is normal now so why the code?
Thanks, Skeptic

I noticed this within the 50 miles. Had the dealer check it at 100 miles. Alignment it was in spec. Just went on a 800 mile trip and had to make the correction the entire drive. Does this at all speeds. What to try next? Thanks

bulbs look good.Wires seem intact. Whats wrong here..thanks..bob

TRACTION BECOMES UNSTABLE UNDER ICY CONDITIONS WHERE IT APPEARS THAT TOO MUCH POWER IS BEING DISTRIBUTED TO THE FRONT OF THE DRIVE LINE THEN OSCILLATING TO EACH INDIVIDUAL FRONT WHEEL. IN MY OPINION TOO MUCH OF THE VEHICLES POWER IS BEING CONCENTRATED TO THE FRONT DIFFERENTIAL IS ALTERNATELY DISTRIBUTED BETWEEN THE FRONT WHEELS AND KIND OF GETS STUCK IN THIS MODE UNTIL I SLOW DOWN OR I CAN GET BETTER TRACTION ON ONE SIDE OR THE OTHER.

After sitting for anywhere from 1/2 hr to an hour, the brakes free up and the car can be driven, but only a short distance before they both lock up again.

Car ran GREAT into town (10 miles) then back. Shut it off. Son drove it to work, it stalled within 3 miles of home. Car won't RUN unless one of the sensors are unplugged from throttle body, then only runs a rough idle. Could this be a bad MAF sensor, IAC sensor, MAP??? don't know what to do about this.

If I unplug one of the 2 sensors on top of my throttle body, the car will start but only runs at a rough idle until gas peddle is pressed then dies. With car running at rough idle (as above) if I plug in "that" sensor, car will die. No engine codes reported. What are the two sensors on throttle body that are not the TPS?

I took my car to the dealership because the check engine light came on (together with cruise control flashing) and I was told that I needed to replace both catalytic converters, but none of the oxygen sensors.

It blows it out of the cylinder repeatedly. The plug was not cross-threaded so I really don't know wat to do.