Subaru Outback QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Driving alone, happens both with no passengers and with passenger. Seems to do this 50% of time since yesterday. I put the passenger seatbelt in the latch to see if it would stop beeping but didn't solve problem.
How much would it cost to replace my airbag sensor? It is on steady (not flashing) when I drive. It's the dash light, not the passenger light. Just happened today, we have had VERY cold weather lately.
Especially in cooler weather. Now getting worse ie. 3-4 and a harder clunk. Had software rebooted. No help. Progressively worse over 3 years. Noise stops after a mile or two.Sensor? Torque? Tranny?
2005 subaru outback. I had timing belt replaced at 100,000 miles, but not the water pump. I now have 150,000 miles. So I'm trying to decide if I should get water pump replaced or wait until 200,000 miles when I replace the timing belt again. Or maybe I don't even need to do it at that time?
At hwy speeds, I get a noticeable vibration when power is applied. It Goes away when steady or decelerating. Wheels just balanced and alignment feels good. This not the same as other posts about shutter on takeoff.
This problem presented itself as soon as I drove it from the dealer (as a new car) but it was intermittent so the dealer would not repair it claiming that the problem did not really exist. Recently the switch stopped working completely and I have a window stuck down and therefore cannot drive the car.
None of the window switches work to turn windows up and down. I replaced the driver door window switch motor, but it didn't help. Ive had this problem on and off for years, but lately the windows-none of them will work at all. Yes, I know there is a window lock button on the door switch and that is NOT the reason for the problem but no mechanics can tell me what needs to be done. Can you help?
overheats in 5 minutes even with coolant replacement, coolant quickly boils off
and now water pump....maybe. May need a new engine. I don't how a simple overheat will destroy the engine.
started hearing a gear whining sound on highway then a clicking and grinding sound began, pulled off the road and it takes a couple of seconds for it to shift into gear while car is at a stand still.
I am trying to decide whether to buy an extended warranty on my car - 4 years, 48,000 miles for around $3000. Do you think it is worth it? What are typical repair costs for my car from 100,000 to 150,000 miles. I don't mind of Subaru makes some money on me, but I don't want to be totally dumb about this big decision.
The car dealership replaced a "heating control unit" and it seems they "forgot" to check the plug. If I go back to let them do it It'll be my fourth 20 mile/2hr round trip back for a second mistake they made while "repairing" my car.
60,000 miles, car runs perfectly, no symptoms, brought it in for inspection (Subaru dealer), told I need $3500 in repairs, including head gasket, front axles and front arm bushings. Second opinion seems obvious. Any other suggestions?
cleaned maf sensor and light still on.
I was told my engine had been leaking oil from gaskets ever since my last oil change. My engine oil supposedly showed a lot of engine damage. No oil smell ever, no oil drips beneath my car in garage, NO engine oil light ever displayed in car, and car driving perfectly. Perfectly. ZERO sign of ANYTHING wrong with the car. And all this information comes my way the day I bring it in to SUBARU for its 90,000 mile service. By the way I have a perfect service/maintenance record.
Took to dealer, service manager tells me it is up to speck, and besides it is normal so that the car will not CROSS CENTER LINE. Notice am a woman,so this tells me he thinks I don't know what I am talking about. This is my 6th Subaru never had this before.
I asked the repair place to check the brakes and that they were pulsating. They said that it was the inner tie rods and not the brakes and that I could drive it awhile and bring it in when I had my next oil change. I drove about 1000 miles, felt uncomfortable, and took it in. The inner tie rods were replaced, but the problem persisted. I took it back and they said the solution was to replace the rotors and front brakes. This car has 250,000 miles, has been well maintained. My question is by driving this car after I asked about the brakes, didn't I then destroy the rotors and seriously how difficult is it to mistake the tie rods and the brake repair as I asked each time for the brakes to be looked at. Was I misdiagnosed?