Subaru Legacy Questions

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My car was shaking an making noise in the front end especilly toward the front passenger took axle nut off to get to wheel bearing an can't take it out also trying to check tirods an anything else that would make the front end shake I jus bought this car

it just happened, it won't go into any gear at all. I can push the clutch in and i can go through all the gears but nothing happens

After complete tune-up and timing belt change, noticed loss of mpg. CEL indicated knock sensor. Had that replaced. Now 500 miles later, mpg is down to 19-20 (from original 28-30), idle is noticeably uneven, cold or warmed-up, and pretty fumey, sometimes seems to belch into car, occas had strong raw gas smell outside car near driver's door. No CEL indicators on, had it checked by 2 mechanics who couldn't find anything.

It is hard to start in the morning takes a few tries when I push on the gas while idling while it trys to start it dies. Friend told me it could be my fuel filter? ALSO a green power light flashes on sometimes when it shifts gears.

sputters then stops then I can start it back up

I had my head gasket replaced nov 2013 at a cost of $1500; 2008 legacy with 80,000; today the car is back in there for exact same issue, which they are covering seeing it is a few days shy of one year, but if subaru is now covering this I would like to be refunded.

In the summer I put in the AWD fuse (under the hood) to switch to 2wd. Well I've had some real bad work done on this vehicle (they told me they pulled the engine to replace the radiator), now when I put the fuse in the vehicle wont shift out of 1st gear (automatic). I cannot find any mechanic that has ever heard of this. The dealer wants 2500$ up front to do a diagnostic.
Can you shed any light on this?

This occurs every time a turn is made. The tighter the turn, the more strain appears to be placed on the engine.

frm the servo, there are 2 brake lines going to the front brakes, and 3 going to the back. I want to block off the rear brakes and only use the front brakes to get it to a shop. where can I block off the rear brakes and what do the 3 lines go to? which is which>?

narrowed problem to :will crank and run perfectly for 30 seconds
something shuts it off electrically and it will not fire again until several hours have passed .maybe thermal reset tryfolling morning starts fine runs 30 +or- sec shuts off will crank over but won t fire at all

I have a 2001 legacy the shifter is stuck could it be the linkage

I have had the car for 5 months and had the valve gaskets replaced and the car tuned up. Even before the repairs, i have heard a small rattle on the right side of the engine, sounds like close to the glove compartment. I dont hear it when im outside of the vehicle, only hear it when im inside.
The sound is not always there: it goes away when the car has been completely warmed up and driven for 30+ minutes.
When i do here it is driving around town and the rattle gets more rapid and faster as you speed up, and if i take my foot off accelerator the rattle slows down. It sounds as if there are small pebbles being rattled in a small area in the engine.
When engine is at idle its costant and steady rattle...when in Park it goes away.
Any idea what this could be?
I have been reading a lot about heat sheild rattling...but not sure if its that.

i had my tran replaced how can i tell if the auto trans control system is properly working

the power indicator light is flashing how do i address a possible auto tran control system issue

for no reason throttle body will stop taking message from foot pedal. engine revs to approx 2500 rpm when put in park. have to shut off engine and restart. If it starts on first try problem is still there. has to role and not start first then on next try it will start and problem is gone for a little while. really wierd. anyone else have this??

but rpms go way up makes clunky noise then evens out 210k on it. whats up? All responses appreciated Thanks happens once in a while disconcerting when it does

When i put the key in the egnition to start my car it will turn the power on, but will not continue over to start. Like i said the key is all the way where it should be to have started the car it just will not turn over. I still have power in the car and everythng works. I can jump it to start it that way and the check engine light and the cruise control is blinking.

made a funny nock /slap underneath then noticed speedo not working went to start and move an hour later and drive line wont spinn

when i put a brand new battery in the car theres still no electricity.

This has less than 150,000 miles on car losing power esp. on hills diagnosed plugged converter is covered under a warranty can't drive no power

Hello I,ve spent over $1000 now and still the same,I,ve had air flow meter replaced good spark plugs,and lots of labour trying to find fix,right then 50/50 of time it goes limp when taking off and over taking on high way,taking off put foot down and it just crawls til it finly kicks in but not at full boost,but some times it goes ok,it feels like it chocking or flooding,will it be o2 sensors or cat,or something to do with fuel inject,also it's just started to shake badly when breaking when going anything ova 100 k ,thanx for reading and please help me

The new pump sounds like it is working, but still no fuel in the lines. Could this be a fuel relay problem?

Noticed this happening when A/C on and traveling fast enough to be locked up. Tach was fluctuating and could feel it locking and unlocking. Seems to do it right when maintaining speed. Now it does it without A/C on. Noticed that I can get it to lockup by reducing throttle position and load, but as soon as I increase TP, it unlocks. Too much of this gives light and code p0740. Did not notice the lockup problem until started using the A/C this summer.

Tranny also will not shift into 4th gear in Winter until I am 5 miles up the road. Used magnetic heater on pan and decreased to 2-3 miles. I did get a "fluid temp..." something code at one point during the winter.

Tranny also fits one of the brake band adjustment symptoms in the FSM. Shifting from 2-3, it "boggs down" like it's going into 4th, then "lets go" and revs through 3rd and shifts into 4th normally. I can avoid this if I let off the throttle at the right time for the correct duration, but it's tricky. FSM said to back off on brake band adjustment. I have not had any work done to the transmission. Bought used with 77000miles and now has 95000. Trying to figure out if it's feedback from sensors or actual problem with TC, solenoid, fluid pressure, or PCM.