In the summer I put in the AWD fuse (under the hood) to switch to 2wd. Well I've had some real bad work done on this vehicle (they told me they pulled the engine to replace the radiator), now when I put the fuse in the vehicle wont shift out of 1st gear (automatic). I cannot find any mechanic that has ever heard of this. The dealer wants 2500$ up front to do a diagnostic.
Can you shed any light on this?

This occurs every time a turn is made. The tighter the turn, the more strain appears to be placed on the engine.

frm the servo, there are 2 brake lines going to the front brakes, and 3 going to the back. I want to block off the rear brakes and only use the front brakes to get it to a shop. where can I block off the rear brakes and what do the 3 lines go to? which is which>?

narrowed problem to :will crank and run perfectly for 30 seconds
something shuts it off electrically and it will not fire again until several hours have passed .maybe thermal reset tryfolling morning starts fine runs 30 +or- sec shuts off will crank over but won t fire at all

I have a 2001 legacy the shifter is stuck could it be the linkage

I have had the car for 5 months and had the valve gaskets replaced and the car tuned up. Even before the repairs, i have heard a small rattle on the right side of the engine, sounds like close to the glove compartment. I dont hear it when im outside of the vehicle, only hear it when im inside.
The sound is not always there: it goes away when the car has been completely warmed up and driven for 30+ minutes.
When i do here it is driving around town and the rattle gets more rapid and faster as you speed up, and if i take my foot off accelerator the rattle slows down. It sounds as if there are small pebbles being rattled in a small area in the engine.
When engine is at idle its costant and steady rattle...when in Park it goes away.
Any idea what this could be?
I have been reading a lot about heat sheild rattling...but not sure if its that.

i had my tran replaced how can i tell if the auto trans control system is properly working

the power indicator light is flashing how do i address a possible auto tran control system issue

for no reason throttle body will stop taking message from foot pedal. engine revs to approx 2500 rpm when put in park. have to shut off engine and restart. If it starts on first try problem is still there. has to role and not start first then on next try it will start and problem is gone for a little while. really wierd. anyone else have this??

but rpms go way up makes clunky noise then evens out 210k on it. whats up? All responses appreciated Thanks happens once in a while disconcerting when it does

When i put the key in the egnition to start my car it will turn the power on, but will not continue over to start. Like i said the key is all the way where it should be to have started the car it just will not turn over. I still have power in the car and everythng works. I can jump it to start it that way and the check engine light and the cruise control is blinking.

made a funny nock /slap underneath then noticed speedo not working went to start and move an hour later and drive line wont spinn

when i put a brand new battery in the car theres still no electricity.

This has less than 150,000 miles on car losing power esp. on hills diagnosed plugged converter is covered under a warranty can't drive no power

Hello I,ve spent over $1000 now and still the same,I,ve had air flow meter replaced good spark plugs,and lots of labour trying to find fix,right then 50/50 of time it goes limp when taking off and over taking on high way,taking off put foot down and it just crawls til it finly kicks in but not at full boost,but some times it goes ok,it feels like it chocking or flooding,will it be o2 sensors or cat,or something to do with fuel inject,also it's just started to shake badly when breaking when going anything ova 100 k ,thanx for reading and please help me

The new pump sounds like it is working, but still no fuel in the lines. Could this be a fuel relay problem?

Noticed this happening when A/C on and traveling fast enough to be locked up. Tach was fluctuating and could feel it locking and unlocking. Seems to do it right when maintaining speed. Now it does it without A/C on. Noticed that I can get it to lockup by reducing throttle position and load, but as soon as I increase TP, it unlocks. Too much of this gives light and code p0740. Did not notice the lockup problem until started using the A/C this summer.

Tranny also will not shift into 4th gear in Winter until I am 5 miles up the road. Used magnetic heater on pan and decreased to 2-3 miles. I did get a "fluid temp..." something code at one point during the winter.

Tranny also fits one of the brake band adjustment symptoms in the FSM. Shifting from 2-3, it "boggs down" like it's going into 4th, then "lets go" and revs through 3rd and shifts into 4th normally. I can avoid this if I let off the throttle at the right time for the correct duration, but it's tricky. FSM said to back off on brake band adjustment. I have not had any work done to the transmission. Bought used with 77000miles and now has 95000. Trying to figure out if it's feedback from sensors or actual problem with TC, solenoid, fluid pressure, or PCM.

Sometimes my vehicle 2007 Subaru will not start (2X daily). I have only been successfully starting the vehicle after I tap on the starter motor with a hammer or large wrench. What is wrong with the vehicle? Thanks. DIY TommyT

I accidentally grabbed the collar whole shifting into 6th gear on the highway. Lots of grinding, now no reverse. Seems like it shifts in but as soon as I let off the clutch more grinding and it pops out of gear. Thanks for any help

Have had car for about 10 months front driver side tires wears tread on outer edge real bad. But all the sudden out of no where car started to have a wobble and or shaking only when I accelerate. And up hills the more throttle I give it the worse it gets. Same when rpm gets high but will stop instantly if you let off gas and coast or put it in neutral. I have to get up to speed as slow as possible to try and avoid it from shaking/wobbling What will it most likely be?

Cv axle?, wheel bearing?, differential?,

i brought my car in today to have them determine why i am getting a check engine light and they told me it was due to low compression on the cylinder and i would have to get my engine replaced. is that accurate?

Burps farts sometimes dies at 55+ on hyway restarts in N. ATtrans.whats up?