373
questions

I have a 2001 Saturn SL1 it idles high and when stopped with either heater or air conditioning on it makes a rattling noise. Does anyone have any ideas on what it is causing it? Also only has 75,000 miles.Also sometimes heater doesn't get hot or takes a long time.

Bottom and top motor mounts have been changed but engine still rocks when gears are changed

BELT AND WATER PUMP RECENTLY REPLACED. CAR RAN OK. NOW BELT IS LOOSE AGAIN. CAR SUDDENLY LOST ABILITY TO MOVE FLUENTLY. HAD CAR JUMPED. AAA SAID ALTERNATOR SHOWS PROBLEM. AFTER JUMP WITHIN 20 MINS IT WOULD DIE. HOW ARE ALL THESE PROBLEMS INTERCONNECTED> WHAT ORDER OF THINGS SHOULD I CHECK FIRST, SECOND. WHAT COSTS AM I LOOKING AT PARTS/LABOR NEW/USED PARTS. I COULD USE AS MUCH INFO AS POSSIBLE AND ASAPPPPP ANYONE WHO KNOWS CARS PLEASE HELP! MUCH APPRECIATED.

The RPM would get to 4000 or 5000 start dogging then die. Changed the egr valve

Have to pull door handle upwards HARD from the outside to open door. No problems opening door from inside. How can it be to fix myself? How much if shop fixes?

the clutch safety switch is not working. the car started just fine.I Went to the store,when I came out the car woudn't start,but I was able to pop start it.

Tie rod ends and shifter cables replacement

It started knocking and was still running fine,then I hit a puddle of water and it got worse. Will run okay but lacks power and if I drive ten blocks to store and back it barely makes it back ,New plugs and wires and when I check the plugs when I get home there soaked in gas!

Next morning, car wouldn't start. The key turns, but it won't turn over. It's not making any sounds. The lights are not coming on, all electronic parts of car won't work. I don't know if it's the alternator or the battery. Any suggestions?

It still goes forward just not in reverse, and it stalls a little when trying to switch gears.

All checks were done on Battery,Starter,and alternator. I checked if there was any codes and there wasn't none my diagnostic reader.

Replaced fuel pump and filter, car started right up. I drove to the store put in more fuel. Started right up again, drove it home. Next day drove to store came out and car would not start. Over the next few days I attempted to start it with no success. Yesterday went outside car started right up. Has started each time after that. I'm scared to drive it, I can't afford to be towed again. What could it be? Your help would be greatly appreciated.

it has been stalling and has a very loud clanging sound
it soundn like it is in the front right part of the car.......
i had brought it to get servicd to sears... they replaced sparks wires filter pvc valve, valve gasket cover,
and some fluids they said it needs a oil pan gasket... so it was brought home went for a ride sounded ok
next day driving in town and it was making the clanging sounds nad also felt like it wanted to stall..... oil leak was found .... so how much is a oilpan gasket and can that new gasket end the clanging sound.... thank you

can temp control sensor or trans temp sensor cause trhis problem

He says it will cost at least $80. Is it ok to do these myself if I buy the parts? Which parts? Where to buy? How difficult to do?

When I accelerate the car slowly picks up speed, the rpms shoot up around 3-4 until it catches up and then speeds up. Just had the catalytic converter replaced...the car drives well other than that..

I had a check engine light diagnostic done on my Saturn and the low coolant sensor came on (it wasnt low) and the imap sensor. It was explained to me that this regulates air flow to the engine. Could be computer issues too, He wants $200. sound fair?

For a while, it would come on if I turned it off for a bit then back on. Now, it won't turn on at all. A/C won't either, obviously. Pretty sure I'm low on coolant but that shouldn't affect whether or not my fan turns on.

If it's a fuse issue, where would I find that?

Thanks!

Was doing oil change, plug might have got cross threaded, now just spins but won't tighten. Think pan has to come off, but not sure best way to do.

The car seems to be driving ok. I asked the service station to check the car and they suggested an alignment. They claim the car will "collapse" in winter if I do not get it before then but right now they say it was "still ok" Please note I have not had one done that I can remember. They want $90. They also wanted $60 to replace a stud. The filter changes are cheaper.

I removed fuses and they seem to be fine , what else and how can I check it ? Thanks

The car runs without the key in the ignition. I discovered that by accident when I was in a hurry one day. I didn't realize it would drive like that, until I drove somewhere one day, and when I went to shut the car off and take the key out, the key was already out. I had put it in the console and forgot to put it in the ignition when I started driving.

My car revs up to 3-4k rpms while idling then acts like it wants to die, and the smell of gas comes into the car. Plus, when starting up blows a white cloud out of the exhaust.