Saab 900 Questions
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I have an evap leak and i am car illiterate. I understand some of the info i am getting online about this but any other info or recommendation would be greatly appreciated. I have also sank a lot of money into this car since i bought it not too long ago so I am trying to find the most inexpensive way of fixing the problem. My check engine light came on about a mth ago and had it checked and the code it is reading is p0455.
The customer bring me the car with the heater blower motor bypassed was asking to have it repaired oe speck I have power to all the heater controls but nothing going to the blower motor
Fuel filter? Fuel pump? Battery?
It starts cold fine. But dies (no coughing or sputtering) after it has warmed up. Will start again after waiting 4-5 minutes, but will die again shortly thereafter. Any suggestions?
Checking my oil and noticed a gas smell on the dip stick.
Is have the check engine on so i want to.know what is the sensor p1617
only when accelerating, my saab will begin to shake violently. Just bought the car yesterday, doesn't matter what gear I'm in, shaking still occurs. When I let off the gas, the shaking stops. Tires are fine, previous owner told me its a CV axle, but I've also read that's probably not the case... Please help!
every time i take the key out of the car the window and sunroof automatically open on there own, and it will continue to try over and over please help
sometimes wouldnt start unless i took out fuse ....put it back then it started(happened often). finally died while driving lost all power ....check engine light blinking
Or crooked starter. The car starts but stalls when put in gear and is losing oil from the bottom
The A/C is charged and the heat is working. The dash vents are good except the center one which is weak and the floor is weak
I resently replased the clutch cable purchased from saab and it has more play in it agane.Can I adjust the clutch its self?The cable has no adjustments on it at all.A photo of how to do this would be great.THANK YOU ROBERT
This is a relatively new development. What is the cause? Thanks.
Just blows cold air, although the temperature is right where it should be on the gauge.
two motor mounts and a radiator for my Saab 1997 SE Turbo with me already having the parts.
when you pull the lever the high beams come on, but when you let it go they shut off. ive tried all 3 positions on the headlight switch.
Is on and it smokes,and running ruff.what can I do now?
Can this be repaired and what should it cost. It was combo of rust and pot holes but the car is in good shape.
Has only started recently, its a squealy noise.
it worked perfect for 2 miles the i stoped at the store, then it was back to rough after i stopped the car, i feel like i was suppose to drive more so the car readjust to the clean IAC? anyone experience that? i have to cancel anything that will not make it work so good, what is that, i guess i will try to clean it again..and try again
i replaced the tires and it still vibrates at freeway speeds and the steering wheel shakes really bad.i checked for loose componets and everything looks ok could it be the steering gear or maybe the struts.also the oil drain plug doesnt torqued down is there a repaire for this?
It had a leak when I got it and I've no idea where to start looking
Recently I had my car undergo a "smoke test" prior to repairing whatever was causing my check engine light to come on, 2 months before emmissions test due. They found my purge valve was damaged, so I replaced it. When I returned to mechanic, they cleared my check-engine light for free. What they did not tell me is that I was not likely to pass emmissions until all the OBD monitors reset. So I went to do my emmissions test today (one day before registration due Nov. 30), and could not complete it, due to OBD readiness monitors being "Not Ready" (SID: 10497651). I was told I'd need to do a "Drive Cycle" diagnostic, which I found out online has many steps. There was none that I could locate for my specific make and model (perhaps because Saab is out of business?), but the suggestion was to use the process for GM vehicles. I am a bit dubious about this, and I'm not sure it will work anyway, as I drove the car right after the check engine light was cleared. I drove it some distance, and never followed the Drive Cycle process, because I didn't even know about it. Any suggestions? Do I need to pull battery power again and start over? I suspect that was how mechanic reset my system in the first place.
Continues to stop & restart but keeps stopping.