Saab 9-5 Questions
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I NEED TO CHANGE OUT THE TRANS FLUID AND REAR DIFF FLUID BUT WANT TO KNOW HOW MUCH I NEED BEFORE I BUY. THAT STUFF IS QUITE EXPENSIVE
my check engine light is on when i had it check it gave the code of misfire in cylinder # 4 i do believe. Which i was told could most likely be the Mass Airflow. I'm not sure what is wrong i do know however that it is a automatic transmission and it runs rough.
I bought this car from an old man mechanic roughly age late 60s who l so much trust in him. He has never mentioned any problems regardless the car. I have spent almost $3500 on it excluding $1800, I bought it. Both exteriors and interiors are clean. I'm a single mother of 12&8 girls. I am very unhappy and stressful with my situation because its very hard to go around without a car. I had to wake early to drop off my children at school and to go to school as well. I took it to get the road worthy and I was told l need to change couple things which costed me almost $3500. I can't afford to buy another car. I DO REALLY NEED HELP.
While driving at highway speed, there was a fairly loud popping noise and the Saab engine stopped running. It will start, run extremely rough for about 15 seconds and then stall and not run. What would cause this to occur? Oil has been changed every 3,000 mile with Mobile 1
My 2001 Saab 9-5 Sedan (2.3L 4cyl Turbo 5M) recently took an uncommon road trip (80 miles). After making a quick pit stop, we restarted the car and the tailpipe began emitting a white smoke, which gradually thickened. About 5 minutes later, the smoke was incredibly dense and the car stopped accelerating. The engine wasn't overheating. We turned the car off and had it towed to a Ken Towery. The mechanic checked it out and quickly advised that the issue was likely onset by a broken part "catching" when the engine turned over and that we replace the motor. We then had the car towed back to our hometown...
Since then, I've tried to start it... the engine cranks, but it doesn't start. And, I've checked the motor oil... there doesn't appear to be any.
I had the car inspected on 8/18. Everything checked out OK, except for a loose oil cap (which they tightened). I had the oil changed on 6/16.
Any help diagnosing this issue would be greatly appreciated!
My saab is jerking badly when the turbo hits the red what is it and what do i need to fix it
Recently replaced the starter and check valves to brake booster.
Does anyone think ACPro would work for this?
So as I go up hills the car God slow ,,oh and my air conditioning pipe shakes hard when turned on ...
And my battery won't stay charged..so when I try to start the car it just make a ticking sound...what could be the problem
The auto repair place I bought it too says it has something to do with the cord module
key is stuck in ignition and car remained cold the whole time.
I have a Saab 95 2.2 TiD 120 HP 2004. For the last 3 years it needs 3-4 cranks only for a cold start + 5 secs of white smoke. Rest of the day drives fine. No hesitations,missfires etc. A month ago: code P0336 appeared: erased. Today sudden engine stop al low speed and the folllowing codes: P0103 (Maf sensor high input) + P1103 (GM: MAF sensor in range but higher than expected) + P0335 + P0336 + P0337 (Crankshaft position sensor issues) + P0340 (Camshaft position sensor malfunction).....and the car drives perfectly. Looks very complicated. Any hints? Thanks
Rest of the day fine. No hesitation,missfires etc. A month ago code P0336 appeared:erased. Today sudden engine stop al low speed and the folllowing codes:
P0103 (Maf sensor high input) + P1103 (GM: MAF sensor in range but higher tan expected) + P0335 + P0336 + P0337 (Crankshaft position sensor issues) + P0340 (camshaft position sensor malfunction).....and the car drives perfect. Looks very complicated. Any hint? Thanks
I replaced car battery late in 2014. I had car repaired to fix erratic timing last month. Today car did not pass smog test. I had no fault indicator lights on the dash. Last repair was done et SAAB expert repair shop which now says to drive the car and (?) hope that it correct monitors. Last week end I drove the car for about 4 hours not knowing that I would fail test today.
at the same time i replaced the front o2 sensor because because it was throwing the code for it.now it is throwing the code for a camshaft pasition sensor . Do you think i should put the cheap plugs back in .I know you list several things it could be for that code . but do you think it could be the plugs since thats what i changed first and made it run rough.
Daughter's car on occasion will rev up in drive but won't move, like it stalls, but then will take off. Changed out the automatic transmission fluid, seemed to fix problem, but a week later same symptoms occurred.
The timing belt on a V-6, 3.0 engine traveled toward engine and became shredded and failed 30,000 miles after timing belt service. The engine had about 210,000 miles. What would cause the belt to travel ? There were no signs of pulley or tensioner issues, ie "no smoking gun". Could it be incorrect installation procedures ?
When letting off the gas? I don't have coolant in my oil and lost power. Going through oil and comes out exhaust. Would it be the head gasket or the piston rings
Upon starting the car we found both headlights, high & low beams not working. All fuses are ok, replaced both bulbs nothing. All other lights are working. ?????
regardless of how much fuel is in my tank the fuel gauge is constantly jumping from full to empty - the fuel light goes on when the gauge hits below the red zone then goes off when the gauge jumps up. sometimes it reads full even though the tank is not full. is it a fuel sensor issue ? what do I need to check or replace? nothing worse than driving a car and trying to guess how much gas I have left or if I will run out of gas. I already tried adding the fuel injection cleaner in the tank when filling the tank but it didn't help. any advice would be greatly appreciated.