621
questions

the car will shut off when it reaches drive temperature. It will start and idle smoothly until shut off and it will not start again until the engine has cooled off. It has a newer crank sensor in it, a new direct injection cassette, new battery, and I tested the voltage to make sure its not the alternator or voltage regulator. One thing I notice was that the radiator fan was not kicking on while it idles and not sure if that has anything to do with the problem. and last thing is that the computer is reading no codes so that's no help either. any ideas or direction would be extremely helpful. I am new to saabs.

Or crooked starter. The car starts but stalls when put in gear and is losing oil from the bottom

Replaced the d.i.c and it still did it. Can it be vacuum hose? Could it be the ethenol? I only use prmium gas.

My car will start if I pour gas into the carb or intake checked fuel pump by removing the lines . It squirted gas out so now I want to check fuel filter .am I on the right track I don't know we're it is located.

Left Saab service, drove a few miles, check engine light & (TCS 0ff) light came on, engine sounded ragged. no overheating or stall. Turned off recent repaired AC, sounded better, slight fuel smell. I stopped let car idle. Drove slowly home w/o a/c. check engine light still on, no overheating. I have not tried to stat the caragain.

Key was bent now won't start car.

Replace broken key.

Hi Hope someone can help. I have a 2002 Saab 95 Aero and have an acceleration issue. If I accelerate gently on the accelerator the car is okay, if I depress the accelerator too much the car stutters, feels like fuel starvation. I noticed today white/grey smoke today when trying to accelerate hard. I only noticed this happen once though. The previous owner hasn't driven the car much in the last few years, so I'm wondering is this a result of the car standing for long periods of time, or is it a bigger issue. There are no warning lights appear in on the dash. Please can anyone assist?

Doe saab have automatic switch off when oil has leaked out when driving

I have put a new battery and alternator in it and it still will not turn on.

Had an oil change and a radiator flush done, a week later it started hesitating when I step on the gas, has a hard time accelerating very sluggish. The check engine light came on with the cruise light flashing (I don't ever use the cruise), now that light has gone off but it is sluggish upon accelerating, does fairly well at higher speeds, just acting like it doesn't want to accelerate well at lower speeds such as at a stop sign or traffic light, some pinging or metal rubbing against metal sounds as well, loses acceleration when going uphill. No check engine light comes on! Someone mentioned a map sensor or possibly a misfire (spark plugs and wires). Please help me!!!! This problem is now constant!

new plugs new coils, runs fine but ci light still on?

tried manual advice pressing choices on key fob

A few years back I went to boost my battery and crossed the wires on my 2004 Saab 9-3. It is the worst thing you can do. Ended up costing almost $5000 to repair as the whole engine operating systems were fried. Car has not been the same since. Doors open and close still are intermittent, but not prepared to spend any more money. So last thing that is bothering me is Distance to empty on my SID it increases as you drive rather than decrease. Would be nice if that were the case but not so. Any ideas?? FYI when I start the care it reflects reasonably the correct distance to empty but as you drive it increases.

the car is a saab 93aero 2003 155KW manual gearbox. I was checking some other saab forums and it mi be something with the vaccum. Did anybody have a different opinion, have the same problem?how it was fixt??? thank you

single red wire from compressor turns into blue wire which goes ?
Chiltons book has nothing

I was told they needed to be 'fixed' before winter. However, if I can fix the problem sooner and on my own, I'd love too. When I'm driving, I'll be going fifty, and the light will change to yellow, and I'll know instinctively I'm far enough back I should stop. But the brakes are bad enough that if I did attempt to brake I would end up in the intersection. So I'm taking a lot of risks with going through yellows. I'm wondering how I can fix this problem on my own and not have to pay a fortune to take it back in to the 'foreign car repair shop'. Thanks!

It does it when I speed up or just driving. It does it for a little and when I start driving again

installed new battery Same prob got diagnostic says alternator running properly.. Could it be the key??

the first time I got gas I flooded my car/engine. had the oil changed and spark plugs cleaned. every time since then, when I get fuel my car doesn't want to start. I also topped off the first three times. I know not smart. when it has more than 3/4 gas my gas gauge doesn't work either.
Thanks!!

The A/C is charged and the heat is working. The dash vents are good except the center one which is weak and the floor is weak

Would the p502 sensor have anything to do with the problem