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i tried to accelerate ;car stalled then after started ran as before.I now am fearful to travel far as it may just crap out.
shop plugged it in it stopped the light. moved seat forward light came back on. went to plug it in and connector looks broken
I think thats why my left headlight goea o and off
I NEED TO CHANGE OUT THE TRANS FLUID AND REAR DIFF FLUID BUT WANT TO KNOW HOW MUCH I NEED BEFORE I BUY. THAT STUFF IS QUITE EXPENSIVE
I'm looking for the fuel filter location and would like to know if it is part of my pump module
The customer bring me the car with the heater blower motor bypassed was asking to have it repaired oe speck I have power to all the heater controls but nothing going to the blower motor
The transmission doesn't work.
Fuel filter? Fuel pump? Battery?
Car starts and runs alternator replaced 1year ago??
It starts cold fine. But dies (no coughing or sputtering) after it has warmed up. Will start again after waiting 4-5 minutes, but will die again shortly thereafter. Any suggestions?
Only my back tires are spinning, front tires are not engaging.
Windows rear come down whenever they want child lock not preventing them from coming down also check engine light comes on and stays on for days and then cuts off some days
my check engine light is on when i had it check it gave the code of misfire in cylinder # 4 i do believe. Which i was told could most likely be the Mass Airflow. I'm not sure what is wrong i do know however that it is a automatic transmission and it runs rough.
I bought this car from an old man mechanic roughly age late 60s who l so much trust in him. He has never mentioned any problems regardless the car. I have spent almost $3500 on it excluding $1800, I bought it. Both exteriors and interiors are clean. I'm a single mother of 12&8 girls. I am very unhappy and stressful with my situation because its very hard to go around without a car. I had to wake early to drop off my children at school and to go to school as well. I took it to get the road worthy and I was told l need to change couple things which costed me almost $3500. I can't afford to buy another car. I DO REALLY NEED HELP.
When I went to put my 2000 Saab 9-3 in reverse it made a loud, harsh clunking noise when I did so. Then when I put it in drive, on the dash, the light stayed on reverse even though I was in drive. Also, the check engine light came on. So I parked it and parked it to see if it would make that clunking noise when I put it now reverse gain and it did. Dash still said I was in reverse. When I turned the car off and turned it back on, it didn't happen again and everything was fine. Any ideas on what would be causing that?? When you plugged a code reader in, it didn't give any codes??
Suddenly, the headlights (low and high beams) do not turn on. All other lights are good. Fuses and bulbs all check out or have been recently replaced. Suspect the big red headlight relay in hood fuse box, which has failed before and replaced. Hate to spend another fifty bucks on a "maybe." Any suggestions? Thanks, Dan
recently installed recycled transmission. reverse worked at first now reverse does not engage
While driving at highway speed, there was a fairly loud popping noise and the Saab engine stopped running. It will start, run extremely rough for about 15 seconds and then stall and not run. What would cause this to occur? Oil has been changed every 3,000 mile with Mobile 1
My 2001 Saab 9-5 Sedan (2.3L 4cyl Turbo 5M) recently took an uncommon road trip (80 miles). After making a quick pit stop, we restarted the car and the tailpipe began emitting a white smoke, which gradually thickened. About 5 minutes later, the smoke was incredibly dense and the car stopped accelerating. The engine wasn't overheating. We turned the car off and had it towed to a Ken Towery. The mechanic checked it out and quickly advised that the issue was likely onset by a broken part "catching" when the engine turned over and that we replace the motor. We then had the car towed back to our hometown...
Since then, I've tried to start it... the engine cranks, but it doesn't start. And, I've checked the motor oil... there doesn't appear to be any.
I had the car inspected on 8/18. Everything checked out OK, except for a loose oil cap (which they tightened). I had the oil changed on 6/16.
Any help diagnosing this issue would be greatly appreciated!
When I test drove it it seems I only have 2 gears and there is a lot of play in the shifter when its in gear. It doesn't go into reverse at all.
Check engine light on due to upstream oxygen sensor. Have put in 3 different brand new ones( Walker, Bosch &NTK) light stays off for a couple days then comes right back on. Help?
It is part of a metal cooling line
I want to make sure we do it right. It was caused by water leakage past cabin filter seal. Saw a voltage test and cleaning of contacts on video.
It spits the battery fluid just like your radiator would when it overheats. Don't have any idea what is causing this problem. Please Help
What does a bad cv joint look like
It's clicking on passenger side when turning
My saab is jerking badly when the turbo hits the red what is it and what do i need to fix it
it will not crank took it to a mechanic and he said motor was done. I am a lot smarter than that wouldn't this Swedish vehicle have a sensor that would shut it down
the first thing I am going to do is check if motor is seized per bottom pully system that goes into the motor
Recently replaced the starter and check valves to brake booster.