Pontiac Montana QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Replaced the radiator, water pump, and tstat. Didnt overheat for about an 30 min drive then on the way back home started to overheat. The thing acts like there is a restriction in the water flow also had it flushed.
I have searched the line between tan and firewall of motor and didn't see it
Anybody done this without taking a bat to this crap van!! Error code reads its the crankshaft position sensor. The garage I go to wouldn't even touch the job, said they were short staffed... I understood why when I found out where it is!! Low on the engine block on the firewall side of the engine. You cant even see the insulated wire loom! If I drop the tranny maybe I can get to it! There has to be a better way!!
I am looking for tips . Perhaps removing the transmission output shaft on the passenger side!
My van has been over revving in park, it also runs a little hot and seems to have more momentum than normal. it also makes a thud noise right before I come to a complete stop, but not right when I apply the brakes. I was out of coolant in the reservoir a few days ago, so it has been filled and I am keeping an eye on it, I also use the air conditioning a lot. Im just worried that it is not safe to drive....i work out of town so I drive 30-45 minutes each way. Does anyone know what this could be?
Checked fuses already
Already replaced the fuse by passenger door,15 amp, and looked under hood but don't know what those big fuses control. Need my power to work.
will not open from any switch, and gives warning buzzer as if van is not in park.
i have tried disconnecting the battery in hopes to reset the computer. but it hasnt helped at all.
when I start it up, all is fine. driving, all is fine. when I stop at a red light or stop sign, it idles a bit rough. when I put it in park and idle, all is fine. It is only when it is in gear and idling. I have been told that it could be the coil, plugs, wires, motor mount, or possibly something inside the motor. I have been told that I should start with the coils, the most expensive parts. and if I were to do so, should I have them all 3 done at once or can they be done one at a time? also, do I need to have the plugs and wires replaced at the same time or can all of these be done a week or so between each other?
I am afraid that I may end up in an accident. Just bought the van and it would not pass inspection, the rear brake lights didn't work and the right turn signal was blinking fast. So, I went and had the bulbs replaced. was told that was my problem and it is fixed. worked fine for about a day. thankfully, long enough to pass inspection. now, when I hit my brake lights, the turn signals inside on the dash light up, the right turn signal is fast again. if I have the right turn signal on (blinking fast) and apply the brakes, the signal blinks normal. when I am driving. I have no way to tell if the brakes or turn signals are working properly, by the driver's/vehicle reactions behind me, I am guessing that one or both do not work all the time.
my front wipers, sometimes work just fine, sometimes the low speed does not work. sometimes I only have high speed and then when I turn them off they stay where ever they are on the windshield and later, in their own time, go down to where they are supposed to be. just bought the van, not sure how long it has been this way.
we tried ti clear the code many times and the check light comes back on after 20 miles what should i do? and the power is unstable
Saw a previous question about Montanas hesitating at stop lights. Mine has had "hard starts" at red lights several times. Thought we needed to get the transmission checked until I saw that it was probably the fuel regulator being messed up. So, my other issue is that it seems to run out of gas way too quickly when I haven't been driving far and the gauge seems to "float" a little. There hasn't been any sign of a fuel leak so I'm wondering if all this could be attributed to the regulator??
It only makes the noise when I pull to the left on the steering wheel and am doing over 40 Km's the harder I turn the louder it gets ?
It is not the fuel cap what could be another possible cause?
Why does this happen and how can I fix it?
I tested the brake light wire at the tail light and there was no power when i pressed on the brakes. I was hooking up a trailer and convertor all the other lights work on the car and trailer. I disconnected the brake light wire from the convertor and tested the wire with a test light to confirm there is no power on the wire
I have had to replace the radiator and connector 3 times due to burn out.The van keeps dying on me .Is there a fix or should I trade in?
Did a scan and it said it was intermittent high voltage to the MAP sensor. Replaced sensor and still has the same problem. Took it back to get a scan again and same fault pops up. Was told it could be a leaky vacuum hose. When trying to start it sounds like it has a misfire. Sometimes it will be rough for a second or two after starting then go away. There is no problems once its running.
I thought battery in keys was bad so changed that not it because slider doesnt work with button inside vehicle either.
it was running good and quit. no notice at all
first week heat went out. we flushed the heater core. heat wrked for 4 days. heat went out and engine over heated.im not leaking coolant or oil and they are not mixing in the moter. and i replace the radiator cap.
replaced the water pump and thermostat. called the (ma&pa) dealer. no suggestions on what could have happened or whats wrong, didnt wanna buy it back, excuses on why he cant trade.
he said he had the van for like 4 months. so it could have been a push pull drag it in. we think they may have had problems with the head gasket. i poured bars leak for heead gaskets and colling systems (black cap). i know thats one of the worst things to do. but i need to buy my self some time to come upon 1000 for parts and repairs to replace the head gasket. i also noticed that there may even b a problem with the raidator stem. any suggestions. no one will really answer my questions.
can i get through 3 weeks with the bars leak?
can they flush the bars leak out when they do the gasket?
pedal is loose & can be easily lifted by hand
rear side windows quit working some time ago, can't find any mention of a fuse or relay that operate them. Now both driver and passenger windows stopped working at the same time. Replaced fuse and relay as well as window switch on driver door with no change. Any advice?
the brake lights burn out quick after each replacement..the turn signals seem to only work in the back but wont in the front and when the turn signals are activated they click really fast. The cruise control wont work and a light on the dash shows the traction system is out (not sure if it is).. was told multi function switch was the problem and ideas before I go into this?
All doors will lock but only driver's side will unlock with any FOB or switch if temperature is warmer. When outside temperature cools down, problem goes away and all locks function normally. Switches appear to work fine and wiring integrity appears fine as well. This pretty much limits the issue to the BCM, although I will check some floor pan wiring as well. Because the issue seems to be related to weather/temperature, it would seem that there is expansion and contraction of a contact, although I still cannot explain how the driver's side fron door still works all the time while the others seem to 'try' to work but don't.
Rear back seat won't come out
Possible cable problems as there was slack cable hanging out at back of door opening
IS ANY THING REQUIRED OTHER THAN REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF THE FILTER