Pontiac Grand Prix QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I have changed the bulb twice. First time, it worked fine for about a week. Changed it again, it lasted a block! The tail light works fine. The drivers side, all three functions work. The passenger side only has tail light. The blinker and brake doesn't work. I've heard of a sensor, but if it's only one side, I'm assuming that's not it. I'm at a loss. No extra cash for mechanic. Gotta repair myself, so any advice on where to start? I'm not finding any answers on line so I'm hoping someone can help. Thanks in advance.
WOULD REPLACING THE ABS MODULE FIX THIS PROBLEM ?
let engine cool runs good,stays running does not shut down
Over a 4000 mile period L/R tire worn on the outside of tread to the wire cord.this What could cause this, bearings/trailing arm bushing/alignment?
i have a new battery.3rd crank it started blinkers and some inside dash lights not working right all of a sudden turned it off and it wouldnt start back up till i jumped it. got home turned it off jumped it again and no response.
I tried to seal it with chalk but it went thru what should I do I have to put towels on each corner for when it rains because I have subwoofers and don't want them to get damp please help
When Reving motor it collapses
I went for a trip to California and came back and the next day went to start my car and put in in gear and it slides through them all. I checked if it was the shift lock and that seems to be fine. Wondering if you guys could help. I dont know anything about pontiac transmissions.
Changed crank sensor, cam sensor, computer, icm, have blue spark, fuel pressure gauge at 50 psi, getting juice to injectors, fires when spray starting fluid, fuses are all good
Fires and runs when I put starting fluid in the intake
Two weeks ago car started acting funny. Would sometimes start and sometimes not. It would crank just fine but wouldn't fire.so I checked for spark and had that. Battery is good. It would fire when I boosted with battery charger the times it wouldn't fire.then it quit doing that wouldn't fire at all. Changed cam and crank sensor. Then I sprayed either in the air intake and it started. I get fuel to fuel rail but the injector doesn't open. Please help.
Drove from Colorado to Minnesota never had a problem with the car now I will not go into reverse or drive it starts and runs sounds good I am back in Colorado Garza Minnesota need to know what to do the cheapest
Transmission hangs in neutral, then jumps into gear, particularly when cold or when shifting quickly from reverse to forward. Fluid appears clean and levels ok. This has been a long term thing for a few years.
Engine runs relatively smoothly once at speed. I thought it was fuel flow (eg filter issue), but learned there is no regular filter to service. There should be no excessive sediment in gas tank that would cause that filter screen to block. I'm thinking fuel pump? There is also some hesitation starting..It will not start without applying the gas pedal. Without pedal it stalls out. Thanks
How to determine what hose is leaking
My car won't start and I am getting the P404 error code. It's cold here now so issues are starting to arise with my vehicle. I just replaced the MAF sensor because that was also causing my car not to start just a couple days before this. The other day, I was warming up the vehicle, it was running for five minutes and then it just died and wouldn't start up again. It died but the headlights and internal electric were still on. The day before I was driving & when I was decelerating from a high speed my car "glitched". It's internal electric just sort went off for only a moment, but it was still noticeable and concerning. Also, the voltage (not sure if that's the right word for it) on the battery is higher than it should be. It's at 15 when it should be around 14 I believe. Any suggestions on whether the larger issue might actually primarily be this code or whether it's other issues not found with a check engine light?
Every time I try to accelerate the engine runs rough., black smoke in my tail pipe it hesitates when I try speeding
No OBD II codes. Disconnect ignition control module and reconnect and car will start and run until. Once it dies it will crank but not start or it will start once and die almost immediately. Problem is not temperature related.
Had a leak in intake manifold,wich caused the crankcase to fill with oil and the car was driven for a while like this.I replaced the intaken manifold gasket,now the push rods are opening the valves slightly so theres no compression, I have them withb the 5.68 lenghts in the intake and the 6"lengths in the exhaust valves but they are opening the vallves,there is no adjustment on the rocker arm,it says to just torque the rocker arm bolt down what could be wrong?Hope someone can help.
What pulley could it be