this morning checking things out I found moisture on dipstick and oil filler cap. and oily film on carb walls. started it and turned it off in under aminute and oil started coming out of dipstick, whole yube was full of oil. I have a dumb question and think I know but could this be a head gasket or engine in need of a grave? it ran great fluids were fine up till I turned it off and started it an hour later

My head light fixture is busted, so I don't want to take it off, but my blinker is not workering an the bulb is busted how can I change the bulb with out removing the headlight fixture

Car was running normal when I turned it off. when I started it an hour or so later, It started and ran fine until I put it in gear to drive away and started skipping and rough running, low power until getting it going then it ran fine. just bothers when starting off. if light on throttle till you get going it doesnt bother as bad and has normal power at driving speed and slowing down is fine till you take foot off pedal. up shifting and down shift the auto transmission isnt an issue. thank you

Drove fine to friends garage, got break pressure then turned off and wont start. Lights and radio work just wont run.

when driving sounds like a wheel bearing but changed them. when turning sounds like a CV joint but replaced pass side short shaft. Drivers side seems good

There was no warning no noises just loss of steering whan i refilled it it gushed right out dow NC and to the left near drivers front wheel. It was cold in the teens for 3 to 4days prior. 2000 Daytona 500edition 160 ,000 miles. HELP PLEASE

I think it has the original battery in. Never been worked on. Everything goes dead when I attempt to start. Soon as I release the key, power comes back. Every attempt to start ends with nothing.

keep dingging

abs light stays on WHY?

and pads replaced, balanced wheels and tires and it still does it.

my daughter went to leave for school today when she started the car the brake was extremely hard and the steering wheel wouldn't move at all. The gas pedal worked just fine. on the dash the battery light was on but the car was running.

I can turn the van on but when I tried to put it in gear the handle was very loose and it will not catch. I was told that the bolt was missing from under the hood that holds it. Help

The shop said the whole dash area has to be replaced to fix the "knob" & I can't find any information about it.

clicks an barely will turn over battery is good the starter and altanator are good. it just died on me while driving an an hasnt started since. when i try startn it the locks pop on an off the cd player goes crazy like loading a cd. im stumped. trie jump starting it and its like it has less power to start then when try with key. any ideas? im stumped

Shifter can move but nothing happens car stays in park and just revs when I push the gas.

it aint getn enough power to start

All lines on old fuel pump are unhooked. But the retainer ring is rusted and I cant get it to budge to lift old pump out. Any suggestions?

About every 6 months or so, the check engine light comes on. Generally, it has been the #3 cylinder and has been since I've owned the car - I bought it new. It has always coded as a misfire in the #3 cylinder. At one point, a dealer rebuilt the entire engine, gave me a new computer for the car. The field rep was ready to inspect my car because the dealer could not diagnose the problem - since that point, the check engine light has always been for the #3 cylinder. However, this time, the dlr (an new dealer, since I've moved) said it was the high pressure fuel pump; has a small leak; leaking fuel into the "crank shaft". How do I know? This car has been a nightmare to maintain since I bought it. Cost to repair is over $1200; the part is $850, which I've already paid - the dealer makes you pay up front for all parts.

I would also like to know the location of the fuel filter and the fuel pump.
My car has no power and is blowing white smoke, its hard to start and when you push on the gas pedal it misses and stalls out

My mechanic changed the oxygen sensor for $250, including labor. He quoted that the Catalytic Converter was $600 for a none pontiac converter and $1000 for the California emission Catalytic Converter. According to your site that is a huge mark up from the average cost. Does it have to be a "pontiac" converter? How do I get an acurate quote?