127
questions

I replaced a heater core on a 2000 plymouth neon. And now the windshield wipers are not working. I first checked the fuse which was not blown. Then I ran a wire to the positive and negative wire on the wiper motor. And the wipers came on with no problem. Next I replaced the wiper switch inwhich the wipers did not come on. So I replaced the wiper module and yet the wipers did not work. So I just want to get these things fixed as fast as possible. Please help me as soon as possible. Thanks.

This is long winded, please bear with me. Over the past 4 months, the car has died out of nowhere about 6 times, always at the same place in the road, about 10 min. from home. It cranks right back up, and I can drive it around all day, even for week, no problem. Til it happens again. This time it died the same way, but would not crank or start. Pulled it home and have been troubleshooting. I am a novice with cars, but am getting to know this one pretty well. So I checked the battery, it's at 12.6 V. I checked if I had a spark. I do, so cam and crank sensors should be fine. The lights dim when trying to crank, so ignition switch should be okay. The ignition coil readings are within specs. Used screwdriver to short post terminals on back of solenoid, and the starter motor spins. There is also a faint clicking noise from starter when trying to crank. I can hear the fuel pump (or injectors?) kicking in, there is a whirring sound when I turn the key to crank, but that is the only noise inside the car. I did have an oil leak from the cam sensor seal, and the car was out of oil when it died. I put oil in it. There was also oil in the black connector under the PDC. I cleaned it, let any extra drip out, and dried it out. I checked other wires and connectors and none have oil in them. I did the key dance and I jut got a code 12 for the battery being disconnected, which it was bc I charged it since it was getting low from trying to crank. So that leaves me with the solenoid. I checked solenoid w/ multimeter with pos. lead in the big braided wire and grounding the neg. I only got about 5V instead of 12V. I also removed the S terminal wire from the solenoid and shorted it with a screwdriver on the battery terminal (big one with a bunch of wires) and nothing happened except the starter fan spinning. It did not try to start the car. So I want to make sure before I try to find a ride to the parts store that there isn't anything I haven't thought of to check and this is most likely a bad solenoid. Do you have any questions, comments, criticism? :) I know this is really long, but I want to make sure I include everything I've done. Thank you so much for any help you can give. Thanks!

It happens if in motion or idling

When I bought the car it wouldn't open. It is locked and won't open. The handle doesn't stick it is just the lock that won't allow the car to open. Is there a way that I can get it open myself?

My hazard lights, my turn signal, and my reverse lights work

it is a 95 neon but the camshaft position sensor is of a 96 neon. it usually turns off when it's hot. right after I replaced it, it wouldn't start. it took a lot of tries to finally get it to start.

When I take off on a incline my car stutters but if I push in the clutch and let it back out it usually takes off with no problem. It also stutters when I down shift to go over speed bumps and take off again in second gear. The transmission is in great shape. I had the transmission checked when I bought the car last week. Also my odometer will flash from my mileage and say fuse and the car beeps as it says fuse.

already checked fuses do not believe thats the problem would is the next thing i should check to try to fix..
19 years old first car so learning everything on my own

I already know the starter was bad because I got it tested. It has already been removed now that I have the part I just need to get it on.

batter cherged checked fuses & starter relay tale lights flash ligt on stearing collom

how can i override the anti theft system or diable it

Heard a pop/thump once every week or 2. When the pop/thump happens, it is during acceleration. A few days ago the check engine light popped on after the car started to sputter along when accelerating and it started to do the poo/thump sound on and off, no specific pattern while in drive and with gas pedal down. This evening, I had my husband put e brake on to be safe, put car in drive while also pressing down the brake pedal, at the same time I had him accelerate while I watched and listened for the location of the pop/thump. It did it and it actually caused the intake hose, (the black rubbery accordion like hose) to move during the loud backfiring pop. What can cause backfire in the intake along with sputtering during acceleration? Fine when it is in park. Please help. Only during acceleration.

I noticed a pop/thump a few months ago out of the clear blue. It made the car hesitate to go for that split second it made the noise. I could feel it under my feet as well. It continued to do this once a day but only like every few days or once a week or so. Last week, out of no where it started to do the thump/pop like crazy and is still doing it. Check engine light came on. Took it to Auto Zone, they said a misfire in #2 and #3. Coolant reservoir keeps coming up empty, had oil down insode spark plug #1, oil level keeps showing empty on dipstick too quick. Replaced head gasket assuming it was blown in between #2 and #3. Still having the same thumping/pop during acceleration. Fine in park, starts great. Engine mounts r bad but this sounds more like a backfire/misfire but in the front of the car. Any help is appreciated. Very lost.

car will start idle rough dies when no longer giving gas but cause all kinda of codes p0340 p1391 p0300 p0302 p0303 I was wondering if we need to change the ecu also or does that matter.

check engine lite on and thw coder readout is po743 i looked up what that code meant and found out its the torque converter clutch circuit electrical. how do i fix. ive been told i might have to replace the thrasher cable? but who knows

Recently had the cylinder head replaced on my 2000 Plymouth Neon. Asked him to take a look at the timing belt while he was in there to save on labor costs and I was at 100,000 miles. When I picked up the car he told me that they did replace the timing belt.

Two weeks later I was driving my car in a town 1.5 hrs away and my car died on me in the middle of the street and would not restart. AAA towed my car to a nearby shop. I called the first shop in the morning and told them my car had died and was at another shop and told them I was going to have the new shop identify the issue. The new shop called me back to tell me that my timing belt was wedged under the camshaft pulley.

The original shop has had the car towed up to them and they are being very careful not to accept blame saying "We'll have to get in there and determine what caused the problem." Phrases like this make me worried that they are going to be anxious to try to find a way to not assume responsibility for the timing belt issue.

I'm just trying to get a feel as to whether anyone believes it's possible that the shop could find away to not assume the responsibility and claim that the work they did was not a contributing factor to the timing belt issue.

Spark plug in cylinder 2 came out after putting it back in two years ago. Took it into a shop to just have all the cables and plugs replaced. Went back and the engine is running rough. Mechanic told me it isn't holding compression due to the threading on cylinder two and head needs to be replaced ($1200). I ran it by another shop and they pulled P0302 error code since my check engine light is now coming on. This morning the check engine light was not on and the car is still running a little rough, although not as bad as yesterday. Should I still consider replacing the head?

When I attempt to choose another setting on the vent selector switch (i.e.: move from panel vents to defroster or floor board) it will spring back to the vent position. If it does catch at another position, a sucking noice can be heard. I am assuming it is a vacuum leak, but am questioning if it is the selector switch itself.

2.4 swap motor out of 98 stratus got power at starter got ground got new starter in it acts like starter not messing right with fly wheel. had new starter tested it will turn over all day. put it in it wont turn over. push car down street pop clutch it runs like a champ.think maybe wrong fly wheel but dont know how to check that with shield in my way.very frustrated. worken on it for months now.any suggestions.

it started as the car saying the door was open when it wasnt now the lights constantly stay on

The light comes on briefly then goes away. Could this be my oil pump?

OBDII inspection failed.catalyst not ready; evap. system not ready; O2 sensor not ready; ...............Not supported (items): heated cat., sec.air, A/C system, EGR. All other OBDII items show Ready. I recently replaced the battery and the alternator checks good. No check engine lights. I drove 30 miles at 6- to 70 mph and O2 Sensor shows Ready now.

at first just the speddometer stopped now the whole dashboard does the same things. while driving fuel goes from empty to full and back and forth. speedometer goes crazy and it goes from cold to hot and when bells go ding it stops and goes back to cold. is this a wiring problem on the dash. had this to 3 mechanics and no one knows what to do.

I have replaced the damper 11 times during the life of the car.I can drive on new mounts for about 2 or 3 months