I don't know what else to do. is there a way to jump the PCM and make it start

no air flow from rear overhead vents.

shifter will not come out of park

Other than at the switches or the motors.

the quote I am getting seems high. I am not sure of the engine information

Has a little over 151,000 miles on it. We've recently replaced the motor (gently used), O2 sensor (new), battery (from junkyard), alternator (junkyard), & radiator. "Fixed" the clogged catalytic converter by opening, stripping everything out, welding back together & on van. Also, my brother didn't tell me both sway bar links were broke & it hasn't had an air box since he's had it.

My problem started when my brother used the van to push a car out of mud while car was on a slight hill. Next day I drove it & it would stall/hesitate when going a certain speed. Then gradually became dying at stops, while slowly backing out & turning, & stalling/hesitating when hitting a bump (on freeway).

I was driving on the freeway which was fine. Stop & park (while started, about 10 minutes), then shut off van & going to leave the dashboard, headlights, & radio/click lights were all flashing. Wipers were going while off. Numbers where mileage is were going crazy. All gauge needles continusly went up & down. & a humming noise came from where the alternator is. After driving about 5 minutes, it died at an intersection. Replaced the alternator with one from the junkyard (tested positive 3 times during test). Next day, replaced battery with a used one. Jumped & left on for about 10-15 minutes. Drove down the street, fine. Got onto freeway & if stalled when I hit a bump, died when I turned, & continued to stall occasionally on freeway.

Please help!!

I have a very strange problem with my 1995 Grand Voyager. It will buck and rpm’s surge from 2 to 3 ½ after driving for about 10 minutes at 60 to 70 mph. It will continue to buck much worse as I continue to drive. The strange part of all this is as I’m driving I’ll put the car in neutral and rev the engine until the rpm’s hit 4 and then wait for it come down to 2 and then put the car back in drive. The problem miraculously disappears until my next trip the next day. What can this be? If it were the tranny, I would think by revving the engine in neutral wouldn’t fix it. I’m puzzled!

The 1998 Plymouth Voyager is also loosing water and smoking close to the radiator.

Was driving in mountains, van cut out, restarted and cut out in 1/4 mile. Will not start again.

I put a new fuel filter and pump on it, and a new coil pack. It is still just shutting off while driving no warning no nothing. When I spray starting fluid in the air filter it stays running? What could possibly be wrong? Im leaning on something with the fuel but at a loss?

Part store says it shows they don't carry one

yes I just had a fire under the hood today the wire from the starter to the battery are burned it also toke out the computer as well I just left the house and about 5 miles from the house it caught fire would like to know why

They all worked before I replaced the radiator

I had my radiator replaced the next morning transmission fluid had leak completely out.

I recently had my main computer die on me. I've recently installed a brand new Computer, brand new battery, and brand new alternator.

My battery light came on after pulling the old computer out, and I knew I needed a new battery. This also led to the discovery of a bad alternator.

Battery has a fresh full charge on it too, so as not to burn up the new alternator.

Why is my battery light still on?

Car now running low gear

theres 2 sizes which do i need

they say theres 2 sizea and i dont know how to tell what size mine are

I assume it must have some purpose. Appears to be weather stripping of some sort, but what does it protect? It's a foam tube-shaped "pool noodle"-type thing, like copper water pipe insulation.

my door ajar light will go off when i put in reverse or park. but stays on in drive.

A/C blowing hot air. needs expansion valve replaced.