Recently had to replace the oil pan, and then replace the gasket again because it was done incorrectly the first time. I know lack of proper oil flow can have really bad effects, so I am just trying to figure out where to start and see if it is even worth it.

To start off, the car I'm asking about is not a Plymouth Acclaim. It's a 1988 Plymouth Horizon, they just didn't give that option when I started. So, I'm looking to buy this car, but it doesn't have any plates on it, so we can't drive it the hour plus to our mechanic with no plates, and he's way too busy to come out and look at it. The exhaust is LOUD and the guy trying to sell it to us says that the exhaust pipe has a leak in it. The car has a catalytic converter, so we figure it would be more expensive than if it didn't, but we still don't know about what it would cost. I'll probably call my mechanic at some point and ask a ballpark of him too, but I just want to know about what it looks like, given that I'll probably have to buy the car before it sees our mechanic.

code 25/ air idle control valve. how do I check it? Gas pedal is hard to push and the car idles high. Need to know how to bring the idle down. Just rebuilt the bottom end of the engine.

changed calipers master cylinder changed brake booster bled properly still no brake pedal pressure.

Did full tune up, egr valve, and converter.

oil is leaking out the timing cover seal (crank seal). i know some of those balancers are pressed on, is this one of those?
anything else i should know about changing the seal before i get started?
i was a mechanic for years, mostly chevy's, those i know but not much experience with these mopars.
i would appreciate any tidbits of info before i tear into it.

Thanks, Mark

Replaced water pump. Started to install the timing belt when I noticed the rear cam (next to the fire wall) was off by 1 tooth. Instead of using a breaker bar I grabbed a ratchet. The gear spun (slid down the cam), so I turned it clockwise back to the mark. All 3 marks are aligned TDC on compression stroke and rotor pointing at #1 spark plug but car won't start.

I recently had a tune up and the car runs great. No problem with the engine. However, a couple of days ago the air bag light came on and would not go off. I always fasten my seat belt before turning on the ignition. With that, heater is not working either coincidentally. The fan does turn on at all. However, when I turned on the ignition today the air bag light came on then went off which is good, and the heater starter working perfectly. It seems these 2 issues are happening intermittently. Does anyone know what's the problem? Fuses? Sensors?

unable to stop car with ease. adjusted brakes. bled system front and rear. added fluid. vacuum hose ok. still have to press brake pedal very hard to try and stop car. I guess master cylinder and/or booster is next? help again!

The oil pressure light is coming on after about ten minutes of running. I've replaced the sending unit, cleaned the dip screen, replaced the oil. Afraid it may be the pump. No knocking and lots of oil splashing around when I open tappit cover, so it seems plenty of oil is making it to the top of engine. I dont want the hassle or expense of this repair if i'm just missing something simpler.

replace the alternator and it only lasted two months,believe the previous owner replaced with the wrong amperage alternator,the alternator belt was also not riding on the pulley correctly,fraying the edge.

Only when I make left tunr cause u was rear ended and now it grinds what could it be

have found two plugs behind glovebox without anything plugged into them. need to know which is which.

My friend noticed, long after he bought it, that it seems to be wired for it, but can't find the actuator switch. It doesn't seem to be in the glove box.

I need to replace my rear main seal, but the jist of my question is, do I have to pull the motor, or is there another way to do it?

Replaced new caliper and pads still will not release

this car is not a acclaim or a2.5
its a plymouth sundance and a 2.2
i hooked a scanner to my car and it said DTC: 17
1: coolant system temperature remains below normal(cars 1985-97)
(trucks/vans) 1987-97)(jeeps1993-97)
2. knock sensor circuit problem
(1985-86 turbo vehicles only)

1: so what should i do for coolant system?
and 2: what should i do about my knock sensor? does my car even have a knock sensor?
any help would be great. thank you.

when i drive the car at some point there's a noise which sounds like a loud pop.but as i drive with my foot on the gas at the safe rate of speed it's OK. if i let off the gas. and retreat to accelerate on the gas it make's a pop noise. what would you think is wrong with this car. could it be the timing belt or the bad vale. thank you for reading this.

The water is clean and comes only from under the dash on the pass. side. The car does not overheat and runs perfect. When it rains, I see no water coming in from the door. I looked at the shelf in front of the windshield and found that tere is six screws there to hold the black plastic thing in place and found that no longer do they hold anything. They have nothing to go into anymore. The water is clean anf clear.

brakes slip when stopping quickly
abs light comes on occasionally,
rattling noise near rear left wheel

the new surpentine belt keeps coming off every time we start it any suggestions?

never tried it before

I have a 2.5 4 cylinder and there is a slight oil leak from the 2 middle spark plugs how do I fix this

This always occurs whenec\ver I try to use the window.

Do I access it through the trunk or how do I get the brake lamp cover off to change the light?
This is on a 1989 Plymouth Reliant...

I need to know which valve to use to charge my a/c

Checked balljoints,tierods,bushings,swaybarr,A-arms,struts seem fine. nothing loose everything solid. Im mechanicaly inclined and out of ideas. I heard strut bearings but it dont squeek its a metal on metal sound.