Plymouth QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I have to add power steering fluid in every other day. I've had this problem for almost 11/2 years now. I took it too the shop and told me it wasn't from my power steering. My mechanic said it could be the upper seal needs replace. Could that be the problem of why I have a leak?
the van has all the lights and radio.There is an anti-theft device called stargard below and to the right of the sterring wheel.Is this device my problem for the van not starting?
I left a battery charger on too late my and fried the battery. Changed the battery.. the car starts and headlights work but those gauges won't work.
Like the car is going to shut off
my dash instruments quit working. they h
ave gone off /fuel/temp/speedometure.
now they have done before & then just come back on, but now they seem to just be staying off I was thinking they were the wrong Letters. all mine exept for 3 start with B others are C
I don't know what else to do. is there a way to jump the PCM and make it start
no air flow from rear overhead vents.
shifter will not come out of park
Other than at the switches or the motors.
Obd. 2 scanner
No visible leaks on ground, no leaks when running either, doesn't matter if warmed up or just started up, still no power steering.
Checked codes by key and flashing engine light. Codes 41 &47
This continues to be a problem. Is it an electrical issue? Possibly fuse or relay switch problem?
the quote I am getting seems high. I am not sure of the engine information
Ac works but when I move the switch passed halfway it makes a loud noise
I checked the box in trunk I undid pos post for ten minetes l checked ground on cooler in back
Recently had to replace the oil pan, and then replace the gasket again because it was done incorrectly the first time. I know lack of proper oil flow can have really bad effects, so I am just trying to figure out where to start and see if it is even worth it.
Changed fuel pump / dist. cap
Has a little over 151,000 miles on it. We've recently replaced the motor (gently used), O2 sensor (new), battery (from junkyard), alternator (junkyard), & radiator. "Fixed" the clogged catalytic converter by opening, stripping everything out, welding back together & on van. Also, my brother didn't tell me both sway bar links were broke & it hasn't had an air box since he's had it.
My problem started when my brother used the van to push a car out of mud while car was on a slight hill. Next day I drove it & it would stall/hesitate when going a certain speed. Then gradually became dying at stops, while slowly backing out & turning, & stalling/hesitating when hitting a bump (on freeway).
I was driving on the freeway which was fine. Stop & park (while started, about 10 minutes), then shut off van & going to leave the dashboard, headlights, & radio/click lights were all flashing. Wipers were going while off. Numbers where mileage is were going crazy. All gauge needles continusly went up & down. & a humming noise came from where the alternator is. After driving about 5 minutes, it died at an intersection. Replaced the alternator with one from the junkyard (tested positive 3 times during test). Next day, replaced battery with a used one. Jumped & left on for about 10-15 minutes. Drove down the street, fine. Got onto freeway & if stalled when I hit a bump, died when I turned, & continued to stall occasionally on freeway.
I have a very strange problem with my 1995 Grand Voyager. It will buck and rpm’s surge from 2 to 3 ½ after driving for about 10 minutes at 60 to 70 mph. It will continue to buck much worse as I continue to drive. The strange part of all this is as I’m driving I’ll put the car in neutral and rev the engine until the rpm’s hit 4 and then wait for it come down to 2 and then put the car back in drive. The problem miraculously disappears until my next trip the next day. What can this be? If it were the tranny, I would think by revving the engine in neutral wouldn’t fix it. I’m puzzled!