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Engine-tranaxle disengaging happens at highway speeds, when gaining elevation or moving into a curve, for example. Seems to me to be at the final phase of automatic transmission shifting where lock-clutch would kick in. I am at highway speed, either on cruise control or accelerating slightly, when suddenly the engine-transaxle disengages, the engine rev's, I take my foot off the accelerator (if not in cruise control), the engine rev recedes, and engine-transaxle re-engage. It is happening with increasing frequency, most recently about 5 times in 2 hundred miles of travel.

Another symptom is that on occasion, when I am slowing the car to a stop or near stop, the engine starts to stall and "engine service" light blinks momentarily. Have read this could also be a torque converter lock-clutch problem.

What does this problem indicate to you?

If the lock-clutch or torque converter is the problem, can the torque converter be serviced at less expense and complication than the rebuilding or replacing the whole transaxle?

My shop mechanic (3 times) and dealer (1 time) both could not pick up the problem (no computer codes registered, and I sense they are unwilling to test ride 100 miles on the highway to try to experience the problem; my local mechanic drove it around for 24 hours). I am grateful that neither went on a wild goosechase to address the problem and work, but I am disappointed that neither could diagnose the problem. The problem is real and has happened probably 20 times over the last 1,000 miles; also passengers in the car have likewise experienced it.

I have put a new the ignition in and I use the newer key but it cranks sometime and steal some time it won't

Abs and NO Traction light stays on (2003 oldmobile silhouette van. A year and half a go had replaced the front left hub bearing assembly and immediately had to replace it in 2 months under warrenty and now the scan reads the same side. Could it be the connector or the bad manufactured bearing itself?

Start car stays on empty drive for a bit will then slowly move to full the go back to empty. This started two days after filled tank. Is ther a fuse for the gas gage

replaced fuel pump didnt work no power to fuel pump..replaced crank shaft sensor, computer,checked fuses still nothing HELP

will go. Now I can't back out of the yard. Its like the front is going but the back is stuck. Then is would not pull forward but when I put in to 3 or 2 on the automatic transmission it went.

Security light comes on when you try to start. I jumped 12v to solenoid. Van starts, then dies after about 2 seconds. Van hasn't been started for a year. I tried both keys. everything else seems to be normal.

start van fuel gauge shoots to top 10sec. later drops to empty and van drives normal great throttle resonse ???? how much gas do I have????

van drives normal no hesitation in throttle resonse ???is it a bad wire ???

could alternator be going bad(internal Parts)

have looked in repair manual but cant find anything for alarm location

What else could be wrong if the linkage is in place?

My transmission has shown no signs of distress, but my van stopped shifting into gear.

changed motor and forgot where hose runs

My turn lights go very fast when the brake is applied. Both turn lights are slightly lit when I engage the brake pedal without the turn signals on. I replaced three bad bulbs, but the problem wasn't solved. An employee of the auto store told me it was probably a rusted off ground wire. I was wondering if this is simple to resolve or if it would be inexpensive to have a mechanic fix.

thermo signal runs high after 5-10 mins then goes to zero. new thermostat placed last year. Blows cold air still after 1/2 hr(unless on highway),fans dont blow well except rear blowers

Not supported for : Heated Cat, Air system, air conditioner
nor ready- heated 02

It is a concepts tv and DVD player. My player is under the middle drivers side seat and tv is above. My dome lights on the tv part work but no power to anything else.

i have a 2000 olds silhouette with 130K on it. While stopped at a red light, the exhaust suddenly became very loud. i believe that it was coming from the front of the vehicle rather than the muffler in the rear. Before this, it would occassionally miss and/or small backfire if in a lower gear other than D. Any ideas on costs?

Just before it quit it would work and then not work. It would work on and off for about a month before it quit completely. Also occassionaly my left turn signal will blink fast as if there is a bulb burned out somewhere but there isn't. It goes back to working properly after I turn it off for about 2 minutes.

the engine warning light keeps coming on. I can reset it by disconnecting the battery for a while and the car will run for a few days and then the light comes back on. The car runs perfectly even when the light is on. The error code is P0449 GMC

car was worked on, so i don't know if wipers were played with

they look like they should snap on and off, but I am not sure how to unlock the fitting

when I take the key out of ignition I get a rapid alarm until I shut the door.

the battery working but have no clue what could be wrong could you help.

I have had the camshaft sensor replaced, the fuel pump replaced and the fuel filter replaced. And yet it still will not start up. The mechanic says that the gas is coming up good but nothing is happen it still will not start up! Can you please help me!!!

When i turn the key in the ignition it goes dead,lights and window works

its behind egr valve i need to knoww how to fix or bypass

you cannot hear any vibration from the front when you open the hood

Car sounded like popcorn popping but ran great with no check engine lights. We changed the waterpump, tested the altenator, and changed the balancer. After this the car did not make noise anymore but started stalling intermittently (say after 10miles)as if heating up and dying yet not heating up, with service engine soon light. The light said ignition module. The ignition module tested 20+ times and read good. Then once again read cam sensor. Changed cam sensor. Then once again light came on. Then changed all three coils. Still after 10 miles it stalls out and engine light on. We are chasing our tails and mechanics are helping us chase it. Any ideas from anyone out there???? Help, we are desperate. Last fall we changed the computer(brain), cam sensor and mass airflow sensor also. This car is killing me and its my only way of transportation.