Oldsmobile Silhouette QuestionsRefine by vehicle
it does not do it all the time but when it does it the van goes faster than what you set the cruise to
Is there anything I can do to fix it?
Transmission only has forward gears in all settings (PRND321). 23k old rebuild by a ATEC transmission in Elma ($1700). Passed a car one day and van revved up slammed back into gear and since will not go into anything but drive. Start van and it feels like it wants to move forward, put in R and feels like it wants to go forward more so, neutral the same etc through all gears but the most easy to get rolling is D. feels like starting in 3rd gear on all settings. once rolling in d get up to 45 and when converter goes to lock up it slams down into 2 gear. ATEC wants another $1200 to look at. BTW, no whining, burning fluid (looks new) or codes detected by ATEC, just starts and stays in top gear. Help!
I was driving and felt a bump then my upper two gears quit working. This was the first time anything like that happened. does anyone know what could have happened or how to fix this.
How do I get it unlocked and unjammed
It was working i made a turn now i dont have any turn signals i have a oldsmobile sillouette
I have a 2001oldsmobile silhouette and it started and ran fine the day before and I went to start it this morning and it started hard idled for just a second and then stopped running now all it will do is just crank over but will not fire up at all and it has plenty of fuel in it also do you have any idea what it maybe? This never has happened before and there are no codes that come up either.
the light bulbs are blown out
It doesnt do as bad when I'm stoped
I don't know how to turn of the "phone" that is displayed on my radio. Now my radio doesn't work
I have a new battery. I had a mechanic check it out, but could not find a problem. I need to pass an inspection and any lights on is going to fail.
I would like to repair my thermostat myself, but I would like to know where is it located, and is it a difficult job to complete?
my traction light keeps coming on and for some reason my brake lights are not working for some reason no and also my cruise control is working neither now
Out of the blue on Thursday, the turn signals stopped working and battery drained. We bought a new alternator and had the battery tested. Both things tested fine. The van drove fine for an hour until the battery drained again. So we had alternator tested. Again that was fine. What could be draining the battery? When battery is fully charged the van runs great!
i have checked the fuel lines , relay switch. only way it will start is if you open the breather and spray carb and choke cleaner in it. when you turn the key on it takes 30-45 sec for pump to turn on
you can start it go to point A and turn it off and come back and get in and go to start and it will not start and you can use starting fluid and get to start sometimes...
did smoke test smoke came from canister purge solenoid but its new
I just drove the van the day before yesterday started up fine and ran fine no indication of anything wrong. Had a snow storm and temperature drop go to start it today and the dash board flickers for a second everything comes on, but won't start!!!
The dash board flickers than lights up an everything powers up but all I hear is a "stishhhhhhh" sound when trying to start it and won't start!!!
Red Engine heat light comes on occasionally and slow loss of coolant-If it's lower manifold can I use cooling system sealant?
Injectors stop pulse, but spaks woks ok.
I think my abs pump has gone out.
We changed the both tenion pullies and the belt. The squeal went away for a while and now its back. Can't seem to find the problem. This squeal happens at about 2000rpms. It happens all the time and seems to get worse when its cold.
engine reeves up and then tranny seems to engage. no codes
On my 2000 Olds. Silhouette van, after I start it I get the"change the oil light" on for two minutes and then it goes out every single time. I already change the milage counting to cero and pushed the gas pedal three times as required. Any sudgestions?
Engine-tranaxle disengaging happens at highway speeds, when gaining elevation or moving into a curve, for example. Seems to me to be at the final phase of automatic transmission shifting where lock-clutch would kick in. I am at highway speed, either on cruise control or accelerating slightly, when suddenly the engine-transaxle disengages, the engine rev's, I take my foot off the accelerator (if not in cruise control), the engine rev recedes, and engine-transaxle re-engage. It is happening with increasing frequency, most recently about 5 times in 2 hundred miles of travel.
Another symptom is that on occasion, when I am slowing the car to a stop or near stop, the engine starts to stall and "engine service" light blinks momentarily. Have read this could also be a torque converter lock-clutch problem.
What does this problem indicate to you?
If the lock-clutch or torque converter is the problem, can the torque converter be serviced at less expense and complication than the rebuilding or replacing the whole transaxle?
My shop mechanic (3 times) and dealer (1 time) both could not pick up the problem (no computer codes registered, and I sense they are unwilling to test ride 100 miles on the highway to try to experience the problem; my local mechanic drove it around for 24 hours). I am grateful that neither went on a wild goosechase to address the problem and work, but I am disappointed that neither could diagnose the problem. The problem is real and has happened probably 20 times over the last 1,000 miles; also passengers in the car have likewise experienced it.
I have put a new the ignition in and I use the newer key but it cranks sometime and steal some time it won't