Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Questions
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Fuel filter, air filter changed regularly. Plugs and wires replaced within 30, 000 miles. No other repairs.
I tried to jump it off but it does not start and battery goes dead as soon as the jumper cables are off. What could be the problem?????
will hardly pull itself up a grade more than 30mph .had same problem this spring , replaced tps and mafs no help, new plugs n wires , checked fuel pres. ok replaced coil module that seem to fix it,. for a few months now doing the same thing, had new module checked . it checked good . also new oxy sensor last spring. im stuck on this one might have to take it to a real mechanic .this car shows no codes.
lost power the more throttle I give the more it skips change fuel filter it ran better removed injectors and clean tested reinstalled no better check engine light comes on when pulling a hill wont go over 25 mph on hills put a code scan tool on it wont work check engine light wont even flash code 12 I also removed cat to test if it was clogged no better I think bad ecm
My car has been parked a month or row. It is running and smoking really bad . The code that showed up was a quad driver module circuit , was told that was the ECM computer would like any info possibly. Thank you for your time.
What does this code mean. Does it mean i have a bad map sensor or map sensor wiring harness.
had module checked checked good not tcc problem unpluged it still does same has o2 code and vss code also has ehauste leak
Is it possibly bad gas. catalytic converter. or foul play added to my gas tank.
This repeats over and over. and bad smells are coming from car too. what could this be.
Can drive 20 or 30 miles then dies wate a few and starts back up
"I have a 93 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera. Recently had a new water pump and belt put on the it. Now when I get above 55-60 mph the car begins to hesitate and begins to lose power but will keep going as long as I slow down. What could be causing this?"
out ciera runs great, but will somtimes shut off. It restarts most of the time easily and may run for several more miles with no problem. crankshaft sensor has been replaced along with other fuel components. could this be an ignition coil tower problem? How do I fix it?
have lights and all turn signals work
I went to check my coolant level and when I removed the radiator cap I found the coolant to be yellow and oily feeling. The coolant was a nice green color a few days ago. I have been checking it often because I noticed a small dripping coolant leak coming from the top of the water pump area. It looks like maybe seeping out from the gasket, but can't tell. The coolant is also a lot thicker in consistency, something like a melted milkshake. The entire radiator is not full of oil, just a couple inches on top. I checked the motor oil and the level is about the same place on the dipstick, so I'm not missing a bunch of oil from the crankcase. There is no indication of water in the crankcase, as the oil on the dipstick is its normal brown color with no discoloration or water droplets. Is it possible that a failing water pump could somehow let oil into the coolant system?
I changed the timing chain, now it sets this code.
Has slight miss, stumble on tip in every now and again.
Idles very smooth , just has the tip in miss.
I get no left and right signals. All the other lights work.
Repaired inside handle to open door. Door opened and shut fine from inside after repair. Dome light stays on. I locked the door with the key, and now door won't open or shut. Dome light staying on, thus draining the battery. Door lock works, all other doors will lock and unlock, but not the drivers side door. Took door panel off from inside, physically pulling the lock bar back. Still won't open.
The parking brake is applied and the release handle is broken, the cable broke and the handle came out. Apparently there is an electrical interlock that prevents the car from being started when the parking brake is applied.
Change battery not sure what else to do where it's the fuel filter and pump located