We replaced the knock sensor and fuel pump but problem persist. I can be driving, slowing down and it stalls or sitting still and it stalls. Will restart withing a few minutes. Help?


I hope someone can advise me on this. Here's the background info:

1. My wife bought her 2000 altima GXE with 38k miles already on it in 2002. Now it has over 150k miles on it.

2. Once or twice a year since she bought it, the car won't start (engine will not even crank) unless she shifts the automatic transmission into neutral and back into park a couple of times. Sent it in to the Nissan dealer because she had extended warranty on it but since they could not replicate it and could not find any issue, nothing was done to fix it. And since it happens rarely, we basically forgot about it.

3. Last month, it started to happen almost weekly, but this time, shifting the transmission back into park does not help and but now ALL electronics (Power locks, alarms, lights, blinkers) are completely dead (this never happened before). A couple minutes later, it would start okay again. Thought it was a battery issue, but the AAA guy who came to help jumpstart tested the battery and it was fine. Went back to Walmart where the battery was still under warranty and it tested fine too. I cleaned the battery connectors and made sure everything was tight. Pretty sure it's not a battery or connection issue because the clock on the factory standard radio does NOT reset to 12:00 after every time this happens.

4. On Friday, not only did it fail to start after almost every time my wife turns off the ignition, (It would start okay again after a few minutes). The engine also shuts off (no sputtering, though) a couple of times when she was at a red light and when she was in stop and go traffic on the freeway. Called AAA for a tow. 30 minutes later, when the car was being put on the tow, the driver had her shift into neutral, and she decided to just try starting the engine and it actually started. But to be on the safe side, we had the car towed to our regular mechanic to have it looked at anyways.

5. Our regular mechanic hooked it up to his fancy shop-grade OBD II machine and did not find any error codes. Left it Idle for a while, drove it around his neighborhood a couple of times and cannot replicate the problem. When he was more confident that it would not break down while he was road testing it, he actually drove further away on the freeway and put some 40 miles total and still no problems. Due to that, he refuses to recommend any repair work to me simply because he does not want any of his customers coming back to complain that his recommendation did not fix the issue. He's confident it's not the alternator so I don't think he tested it. From what I know about alternators, I"m thinking it's not that either

6. I'm no car expert in any way but from my internet research i think it's a bad neutral safety switch. When I asked him about it, he said it's possible and he'll replace it if I want him to but he just would not recommend any possible fix for me himself. He quoted me $150+tax for a used/salvaged switch and $280+tax for a new one.

If i were to go ahead with this, I'd pay more for a new switch for peace of mind, but since I'm not employed right now I really want to be sure that this is what I should be fixing. What else can I do to test this...Or is there something else I should be testing?

Please advise, thanks!

Additional info that could be helpful:
1. Could this be a car alarm short/killswitch issue? About 5 years ago, the factory standard keyless entry remote broke, and rather than pay $90 to the dealer to get a replacement remote, I had a thrid party install a new Viper alarm with keyless entry remotes for $120. Last year, that viper alarm keylesss entry started failing and a replacement alarm box/brain was installed.

2. About 6 months ago,the check engine light started to turn on. determined that it was because of the front catalytic converter needs to be replaced. But since I was already laid off from work at the time and the same mechanic assured me that not replacing it immediately won't cause any more damage to the car. I opted to just buy a $50 OBDII code reader and reset the code to clear the check engine light every time it pops up again. So far the same error code has come up about 3 times and I've reset it everytime. Could this be related?

I have not ruled out a starter motor issue, but would a bad started motor cause the engine to shut off during idling at a red light and during stop and go traffic? What is really confusing is that it happens randomly and that all electronics go dead but the clock on the radio does not reset. Bad fuse?

Also, I'm in southern California where the temperature range and weather is relatively moderate so it's harder for me pinpoint if it happens only in specific environmental conditions.

Thanks again.

car want start replace dist. and feul pump getting fire to spark plugs.does my car have regulator please help

Hi, this is Ed and i just drove my wife's 2000 Nissan Altima about 30 miles and i noticed the temp gage fluctuating up and down while driving at 55 to 60 mph. I was wandering what would cause this and how to fix it. No engine light on at this time. Thanks, Ed.

occasionally, the air conditioning will start blowing hot air instead of cold air. why is this? Had a/c charged but situation did not change. Blows air fine, just not cold all the time.

i replaced the spark plugs boots and coil packs. the pcv valve crank and camshaft sensors. it turns over and tries to crank but wont.

car runs but when you hit the gas to speed up it stalls out and shuts off

On the 2005 Nissan Altima how do you tell if it is a twoside or one side repair when it comes to a catalytic converter

i need too hook up an aftermarket temperature guage how do i do that?

I have two code readings which I need to understand the meaning of and what I posible can do to correct
#1 is PO 325 (pd) knock Sensor 1 cirquit bank or single sensor cirquit.
#2 PO 304 cylinder 4 misfire
any info on the above would be appreciated

When my car is stopped at a light or when I first shut it off it makes these clunking noises, almost like expanding pipes, but it did not do that for the first 20,000 miles. They replaced the heat shield and it still makes the noise. Any ideas?

Need a 50,000 mile check up and 4 new tires. Where in LA should I get this done. The same place? Or, seperate places.
(Least amount of $$)
Thank you,

I just bought the car used 6 days ago and already it has started to shake, the brake in the back window has stopped working and Im afraid to get it on the interstate.

car produces heat when rpms are up but ot when idleing. there bare no diagnostic codes. new thermostats have been put in.

everything about the seat works except the forward and backward motion. The motor makes no sound when the switch is engaged. The switch is functioning correctly.

Is there anything else that needs to be replaced when replacing a leaking low pressure AC hose? (Other than the refrigerant)

My daughters Altima began shaking at times when first started and sometimes continues to shake when put into drive. It almost feels like something is plugged. Could this be the catalytic converter beginning to plug? It usually takes care of itself if you turn the car off and re-start it most times.

Twice a day, Engine cuts off, vehicle backfires, there is a smell of gas.

Needs oil change but we don't have the manual.

My back brake light goes out when I step on the brake, but when I release it, it comes back on. I'm pretty sure I need a new electrical system, does anyone have a ballpark estimate on the cost?

the heater blower operates intermittently, it still defrosts and heats but at a low force. I sometimes can open & slam the dashboard door and the blower operates at full force but not for long period. Is it the motor, resistor or something else that needs replacement?

The front panel display where it tells time and Radio info is blacked out, not working.
This just happened, the dealer advised us in order to fix this problem the whole unit has to be replaced. It would take several weeks and it would cost about $500.00. We just want to know if this is a fair price?

The center console coffee cup holder cover will not click/snap/lock into closed position. It slides open and closed but will not lock shut into the closed position..it just keeps sliding back down to open position. it seems like it is just a bit out of alignment or maybe if there is a latch, it is off? ...it did lock closed previously..just not now. How much to repair? I have received ball-park figures from dealers ranging from $20-$1000.00 dollars or more. Does that seem 'RIGHT' to anyone?

My car has 114,000 miles and runs great. Should I just wait for the power steering pump to go out and do everything at once?

My check engine light has turned on a few times (I have cleared it myself in between) and is giving me 2 codes - P0335 and P0725. I have looked up these codes for my car and found some information saying that it could be the Crankshaft position sensor, or the Camshaft position sensor. I don't want to change the wrong part and I'm wondering how hard it would be to change the right part on my own or how much it should cost for a mechanic to do it for me. I was also wondering how bad it would be to run the car with this problem for a length of time without fixing it. Thanks for any information on this problem.

My car is idling bad when at a complete stop and stop light. I have changed the oil, spark plugs and wires, valve cover gasket, and distributor cap. The check engine light comes on and goes off at times.

My radiator fan dies not come on even at 30mins after the engine has been ignited the car does not overheat but am a little bit scared, meanwhile, anytime i turn on the A.C, the two fans come up.

The panel light flickers daily.The dash light setting is at it's max, otherwise the radio panel will go blank.

the car will not come out of park unless i use the release button .

changed fuel pump and plugs and still wont turn over running fine the day before